All that other advice you need to follow, but be sure the transmission housing is not flooded. Remove the bottom drain plug and see if any water comes out. If yes allow all the water to drain out before replacing the plug. You then need to consider cleaning and replacing the transmission housing of the wet oil crud ant there are plenty of post on here on how to do that. The reason I am saying this is that the seals are not designed to withstand constant pressure but to minimize oil loss due to splatter. Normal oil level is below the seals. Since these old tractors gain water in the transmission when stored out in the rain (and then not run to dry it off), you might want to look into this issue before you replace the seals. You can make a quick check of the oil level using the level plug on the rear of the housing under the belt drive.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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