I am afraid adding power steering will only make your steering wobble a bit worse. Usually re-packing the wheel bearings, replacing the bushings, bearing & seals in the front bolster, possibly over size bushings if the shaft is really worn, steering wheel shaft u-joints & bushings, replace the bearing in the steering sector.
Once you get all this accomplished you won't beleive how easy it steers, I can turn my 300 from stop to stop with just the spinner knob. Any front equipment like a loader or cultivators and you will want that power steering.
You can use the piority valve ( hard to find a good one used) & behlen drive set up for a 300, 350 or 400, or 450 and use your live hydraulic pump. Your other option would be to use the auxillary mounted power steering pump & behlen drive from the earlier M set up, but with yours already having the live hydraulic pump, I would go that route.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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