The answer is solid repair. Removing all fuel and removing the failed filler with hand tools, not power driven will get down to the screws. remove them and finish cleaning. Take the tank to a repair shop that can braze in a real patch. Remember filler has a different expanson and contraction rate than steel. thick (more than 1/8th inch are going to crack and remain a problem. JB weld seems to be a better option, as do epoxy materials designed fro fuel tank repair. Then shape, prime and finish. Remember, heat drives fumes in an empty tank to the explosive range, even an electric soldering iron will make trouble. (it would need to be massive to heat the tank to solder melting temp anyway) Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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