If I remember correct from the friction disc hub to the fingers is about 1-5/8. That's just a ball park number though. Think you need to split behind the engine and start over with the t/a clutch. If using the same main clutch, set the correct free play for it before removing the engine. When all the t/a clutch parts and linkage is in to spec. Turn the transmission shaft by hand to make sure the t/a clutch releases when the clutch pedal is pushed down. also when the t/a lever is pulled back before the engine is installed. 360655 is a 300 shaft. The 350 shaft will move the release bearing more if the clutch shaft movement was equal for both. 350 clutch pedal has the clutch rod hole closer to the pivot point than a 300. But a 300 has a stop bolt to limit clutch pedal travel so they end up close. But if parts from the two are mixed you can have a problem.
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Today's Featured Article - New Life for an Old Allis - by Tyler Woods. My friend Jon, has an old '39 Allis Chalmers B. He thought it a marginal tractor that had long since served its time. She smoked terribly and never had much power but he couldn't afford another so he was limping along with what he had. Jon's Allis has a small front loader and though it doesn't carry much, it serves his needs. It was the hard starting and low power that made him think it was time to replace the old girl. Jon called me to help him discover why his tractor wouldn't start
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