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Re: Thanks to everyone who responded to my last post


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Posted by Janicholson on November 21, 2013 at 20:35:51 from (74.60.94.18):

In Reply to: Re: Thanks to everyone who responded to my last post posted by Patrick HMD on November 21, 2013 at 15:56:09:

The test light is best purchased as those are handy and not clumsy. It looks like an Ice pic with a clear handle and a black wire coming out of the butt. The wire has an alligator clip to ground it.

One of the issues that may be the problem is a broken amp gauge. I say this because if it is internally disconnected it will pass no voltage. This will also provide all the symptoms described.

Follow these directions with every thing connected and the electrical box open, and the tractor off:
With a test light, hook the alligator to the grounded battery cable at the battery. Put the test light pic probe on the other terminal of the battery. It will light because the tractor starts, and the battery must be connected and charged enough. (this gets you used to the process)
Now move the probe (leaving the ground alligator as is)to the starter switch big terminal that comes from the battery. It should also light!
Next put the probe on the little ring terminal that feeds the amp gauge at that same starter switch post. It should light!
Now Follow that wire into the electrical box. It must connect to the amp meter. Test the amp meter terminal and make sure it lights the tester.
Now put the probe on the other amp gauge terminal.
Again it must light! (if the test light does not light up at any of these test points the circuit is broken between the tested location and the battery. If the first amp gauge terminal did light and the second amp gauge post didn't light the tester, the amp gauge is bad. Replace it before any more tests. If it did light, the next test point is at the wire connecting the amp gauge second terminal with the fuse. If it has a black plastic fuse holder accessible from the front of the switch box, the fuse must be good, and the wire connecting the fuse to the light switch must light the tester both at the fuse where it connects to the side of the fuse holder, and at the light switch. (if your system has only a fuse on the 4 position switch, that fuse must be good. Put the probe on one side then the other to make sure there is power to the light switch. Next turn the light switch full Clockwise.
Test at the screw that connects to the head lights. Must have power, Next turn the switch to D position (one click from Full Clockwise) the same screw should now have power, but the probe should be dimmer.
If power to that point, put the probe on the screw going to the rear light. it should have full power at both D an B switch positions.
If power, use the probe on the screws at the light housings. If power, the bulb/s are bad, or the bulbs are not making good connection in their sockets, or it has bad ground to each lamp housing. Touch the probe to the lamp housing next to the screw (through the paint to metal) if it lights dimly, the housing is not grounded properly to the light bar, or the light bar is not grounded to the steering pedestal.

The generator wiring is next. With the alligator still connected to the battery ground terminal, Probe the wire leaving the amp gauge second terminal going to the device you are calling a cutout, to make sure the terminal is connected to the wire (It is a #10 wire bigger than the light wiring. Next put the probe on the Bat terminal on the "cutout" this will light if the wiring is good. If no light, the wire is bad between the amp gauge and the Bat terminal on the "cutout".
Now (because there is voltage at the Bat terminal, is the time to polarize the Gen. as described earlier.
It should spark. If it does not the generator may not be grounded to the engine, paint or rust could be insulating it from the engine.
Do these tests and assure us there is voltage as described above. or let us know where things go astray and we will help again. Jim


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