Posted by Buck E Clayton on December 05, 2013 at 18:03:47 from (72.222.100.20):
Just thought I would pass this intersting note on. I've been working on the 39 M for about 2 yrs.Now working on rear clamp bolt removal and have been unable to get some of the bolts to loosen up at all in the cast wheel.. No amount of pounding with hand sleg hammer and 2by4 will break loose 1 bolt on R. side and 3 on L. side. Using lots of rust breaker spray too.This tractor probably came fm. factory with cone side of cast wheels turned in. (73 yrs.) I like the wheels to be, cone out . More stability and looks a lot better.For yrs. the valve steem has been on the inside and if removing wheel, a little rough getting them off and on over wheel clamps. All this said, today went out to barn to check things and decided to hit one of those wheel bolts. A paint crack showed up and with lots of rust squrting oil and hitting back and forth, bolt finally broke loose and came right out. Temp outside was 25 and 35 in barn. Made me think of putting sleeves for motor in freezer and then slipping them right in. I've never had a torch for heat,but I sure will work on thoes others in this cold weather when this blizzard stops. Never herd this mentioned here, only heat.--- Winter is good time to work on rear wheel Lug Bolts. Cold contracts {Winter}and heat expands {Summer}. Sorry for such a long note. Hope this helps someone. Buck
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Today's Featured Article - Harvestin Hay: The Early Years (Part 2) - by Pat Browning. The summer of 1950 was the start of a new era in farming for our family. I was thirteen, and Kathy (my oldest sister) was seven. At this age, I believed tractor farming was the only way, hot stuff -- and given a chance I probably would have used the tractor, Dad's first, a 1936 Model "A" John Deere, to go bring in the cows! And I think Dad was ready for some automation too. And so it was that we acquired a good, used J. I. Case, wire tie hay baler. In addition to a person to drive th
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