Well - we set up screed pipes, with the top of the pipe being the elevation of the finished floor. Then you can measure down from your screed (lying on the screed pipes) to your sub-base. The level of accuracy is up to you and your budget. Gravel/sand is cheaper than concrete, but don't get chintzy on floor thickness. I think one of your earlier posts mentioned some heavy equipment in your shop. We always used CA-6 or CA-10 for sub-base material. Lots of fines/moisture makes it compact well. No sand for us, but there's nothing wrong with sand. Tamp it good with a turtle, or something else suitable for compaction. We set the reinforcing on chairs, then zip tie the pex to the reinforcment. If you have a high tensile fence wire spool, or can borrow one, you can easily spool the pex tubing off of the fence wire spool. It eliminates a lot of fighting with kinks. The kinks want to stick up above your screed pipe, and will cause you problems when you're finishing the floor surface. Think about how you want to zone your floor. Is there any areas that you want to maintain a warmer temp than say a larger storage area? Zone your tubing so the temperature differential can be accomplished. Are you hiring a finisher, or are you experienced well enough to finish it yourself? If you're hiring a finisher (often money well spent) see if he will come out and give you some helpful tips. A good one will do that. I have no advice for the various PSI board ratings. Good luck with your project!
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Today's Featured Article - Gatherin of the Orange - by Rick Nikolich. In July of 1998 I was talking to fellow Allis Chalmers collector Mike Schilling about the annual "Gathering of The Orange" AC show coming up in August of 1999. He got this wild idea that we should get a convoy of AC tractors and drive them from Charlotte, Michigan 105 miles to LaGrange, Indiana.
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