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Re: What do I need? never owned a tractor.


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Posted by Pete76NY on July 11, 2013 at 02:35:45 from (66.194.51.226):

In Reply to: What do I need? never owned a tractor. posted by M Compton on July 10, 2013 at 21:54:11:

M, I know that there are going to be alot of guys who disagree with my opinion, and I do respect their opinion about LPTO (live power take off), IPTO (independant power take off), live hydraulics, 3 point hitch, horse power, and style of tractor; row crop vs utility. Explanations first:
Standard transmission driven PTO means your power take off shaft, when turned on, only turns when the clutch is engaged, so if you are using a PTO driven implement, when you push in your clutch (or pull back your hand clutch in the case of John Deere and certain models of other brands) the PTO will stop (it will stop being powered, if your implement causes centrifugal force like a rotary cutter aka bush hog, the force will keep the PTO turning a while after you disengage the clutch which can be a safety issue we can address later) and start again when you reengage the clutch. So, for example (as mentioned below) you are baling hay with a tractor like an N Ford, and you hit a particularly large/dense part of the hay windrow with the baler and it starts to drag your power way down, you would need to disengage the clutch, put the transmission in neutral, then reengage your clutch while in neutral and alow the baler to catch up, then resume movement after.
Live PTO is still transmission driven, but the tractor has a component that allows you to accomplish the above without stopping shifting into neutral, then having to start all over again. Ford and Massey accomplished this by using a 2 stage clutch; when you push down on your clutch you will feel a detent about half way down that allows you to stop momentum of the tractor by disengaging the tranny without disengaging the PTO which would be done by depressing the clutch all the way. Other brands utilized a hand clutch (some after market, some factory) which would disengage the tranny without interupting PTO power.
Independent PTO is PTO that is engine driven and operates completely independent of the tranny when engaged, so you can start, stop, alter ground speed without interupting PTO function.
Anything that you mentioned using your tractor for can be accomplished with any of the above, and yes even baling can be done with standard PTO (it was for years) but once you have used live PTO or especially IPTO, you"ll never wanna go back, so when you are giving advice with someone elses money it"s easy to make statements like "if you are ever going to use a baler make sure you have live PTO!"
IF YOU DON"T HAVE LIVE PTO PLEASE HEED THIS ADVICE:
Purchase an over running PTO clutch (($40-$60 at any TSC or similar,) and mount it on your PTO shaft. It"s a device that mounts to your tractor"s shaft by sliding on the splines and is attached via roll pin through the hole in the PTO shaft. It has a PTO shaft extending out the end that you hook your implement to but has an interface between it and the tractor that allows the centrifugal force of your implement to keep spinning without transferring that force to the transmission which you just disengaged so you can turn as you approach the bank you are mowing by, and thus not allowing that force to drive you and your tractor over said bank.
Live hydraulics; again are hydraulics that are driven by a pump that is driven by something other than your transmission, so you don"t have to have the clutch engaged to run the hydraulics.
OK, now my opinion on your needs. As long as you are not holding heavy loads back while heading down big hills, an N Ford would be fine for you. Certainly an 8N with it"s 4 speed trans is slightly preferable to a 9N or 2N with their 3 speed trannies and both the left brake control and the clutch control on the left side where you only (I asume) have one leg. But certainly a 9 or 2N would work also, and often you can find one with an auxillary trans set up to provide more working speeds. You would have to limit your implement size to a smaller schnit spreader and a 5" hog, so 90 acres could take a while, but 90 acres takes a while even with BIG tractors!
The N Fords have 3 point hitch, parts are plentiful and relatively inexpensive and are vey easy to work on.
Other Models in your price range: Farmall Super C; in my mind the handiest small tractor until the Compact Utilities hit the market with all the bells and whistles as well as hydrostatic trans. It will have live hydraulics, standard PTO, you would want to get one with hydraulic Fast Hitch which is a 2 pt hitch that is easily and cheaply converted to 3pt hitch, Farmalls: H, M, Super H, and Super M, John Deeres: M, MT, B, A, G, Allis Chalmers: CA, WD, WD45, Olivers: 66,77,88, might occasionally find a 55 in your price range, Massey-Harris: 30, 33, 333, 44, 444, Minniapolis-Moline has several models (never completely figured their line up out) and Ferguson TE/TO 20, 25, 30 (20s are essentially the same as Ford Ns but with a Continental Overhead valve engine as opposed to the flat head, if you are buying one from a cold climate, it"s a good bet the block will be cracked though!
Having spent significant time working and playing on all of the Ford, JD, and IH (Farmall) models mentioned here, and a smattering of time on most of the others mentioned, and considering your uses and budget, I would seek out a good (mechanically, not necessarilly cosmetically) Ford 8N, make sure the front wheels don"t wobble at high speed, the rear rims are good, the brakes work, and arent having oil leaking on them from bad axle seals, and make sure the 3pt lift works: put some weight on it (just standing on it is enough) see if it lifts without jumping, stays up while the tractor is running, and see if it will stay up for at least a few minutes when tractor is off with weight on it, and make sure your PTO turns, then Git R Done! Good luck and keep us posted, yell if we can help! Pete


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