Poor idle and running rich can be attributed to the carburetor. Skipping is a different thing. A compression test would be a good start, check plugs and wires, dwell, and timing.
Even though you put a rebuild kit into the carburetor, did you make all of the adjustments? Needle and seat, float level, metering rod adjustment, and mixture screws????? Also, check to see that your float actually floats in gasoline. A favorite on old carbs is a saturated or leaky float. Even with everything adjusted to spec, your carb would be continually flooding the engine from too much fuel in the bowl.
You can investigate some more, do some diagnostics, or just take the expen$ive way out.....
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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