Re: HELP! - Hydraulic Cylinder Dissasembly

Posted by robert major on September 21, 2017 at 22:24:48 from (216.81.4.153):

In Reply to: HELP! - Hydraulic Cylinder Dissasembly posted by Christopher S. on September 21, 2017 at 17:49:08:

Hi There is some good advice about suction here, I can't tell for sure if you got all the wire out from the picture. There should be a 90 degree hooked end that was inside the cylinder in a hole in the gland to pull the wire in when it was put together, and to help push the wire out on disassembly. That ends usually about 1/4 " or so long. Its not uncommon for somebody to twist it to far. or turn the end cap the wrong way and snap it off with some types of wire. I think you got most it with how far apart it is just check for that end.

Now I just did a cylinder like this design for a customer JD discer. The dealers did it last time and messed that wire up breaking the end off and the seals in the gland making it leak !!!!!, but it came apart unscrewing it like it should. I had a pig of a time getting that little bit of wire out of the gland locating hole though. it was burred and semi stuck so i couldn't pull it out or drill it as it spun. Those fittings where clocked so I couldn't use a different hole that was there either.

In the instruction sheet I read before re assembly L.O.L it stated to cut the o ring and back up washer( looks like you just got the ring) and dig them out of the wire slot in the barrel before removing the end cap to free it up for easy removal. All the others I have done never had the instructions and the end just pulled out fairly easy using the rod pulled right out to the end as a slide hammer, but not easy on a huge cylinder. This one did to but maybe yours has more rust in the groove internally and it's real tight.

Big Hint if you never done one before ! When you get it apart you will see the groove in the cylinder wall and maybe the rust, make sure you get that rust and any burrs out of that ring groove and off the lead in taper right in the end. it will need to be real clean so when the new piston seals go in they slip in nice without catching on the rust/burrs, Don't ask me how I found that out with a $150 seal kit once " I thought it was clean enough" Also go real careful keeping everything parallel when sliding the piston in,it don't take much to pinch the seals.
Regards Robert

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