Re: points and condenser

Posted by Tim PloughNman Daley on September 14, 2023 at 01:07:05 from (24.236.161.49):

In Reply to: points and condenser posted by boler76 on September 13, 2023 at 09:49:07:

Good, quality points are STANDARD IGNITION / BLUE STREAK, one and the same. On my FORD TRACTORS, I only use those TISCO, or CNH. Avoid others. NAPA usually supplies SI/BS, p/n FD-6769X for the Ford Front Mount Distributor and p/n FD-8081 for the Angle (SIDE) Mount Distributors. ECHLIN, p/n CS-35, used to be a reliable product but my testing shows now they can't be gapped right. The TISCO kit contains the condenser, and a reusable, handy .015 Feeler Gage for setting point gap with. 25 years ago the TISCO FORD FRONT MT kit used to also include the rotor, but no longer do. Condensers are a crap shoot but usual reliable suppliers are best. A condeser is really just a capacitor. Yes, they can go bad, but I hear many guys state they have a bad condenser but never have any data to back that up; they can only state opinions, not facts. It takes a special test machine to verify a condenser. If anyone recalls the old days of cathode-ray TV sets, there were tube testing machines at your local drug stores and hardware stores where you could bring in your TV and radio tubes and capacitors to test. Yes, the machines had a function to test a capacitor. You could also buy a separate test machine from places like HEATHKIT to test too. May be able to get an old one on ebay. FACT #1: 99.98% of all non-starting cars, trucks, and tractors are due to incorrect wiring, regardless if 6V POS GRN or 12V NEG GRN. Many do not understand the 6V/POS GRN system and when problems arise, usually blame it on the system and not the true root cause - they've wired something wrong. The FORD Front Mount Distributor is the 2nd most misunderstood function on older vehicles before 1950. The unit must be tuned up on your bench with timing set a specific way - no timing ight used. Testing is verified before unit is mounted and then it can only be set one certain way. If you get it off 180 DEG, you will destroy the aluminum base the moment power is applied. This is the usual root cause problem. Failure to launch then results in falsely assuming you then need to switch to 12V, or, ye gads, EI. As the late Sparkie Meister Dell used to say, ...if it won't start on 6V, what makes you think it will on 12V??? Always verify wiring using a proven schematic like from an I&T Service Manual B4 applying power. Don't assume and don't take shortcuts.

TUBE TEST MACHINE, from the 1960's:

Tim Daley (MI)

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