Posted by Paul in MN on May 30, 2009 at 18:56:04 from (71.210.144.244):
In Reply to: ford truck posted by joseph moore on May 30, 2009 at 13:10:29:
The F 350 of that vintage definitely used a full floating rear end. To get the brake drum off, you have to remove the 6 or 8 small bolts at the end of the axle shaft flange. They usually have lock-tight on their threads, so use an impact wrench if you have one. Pull the axle all the way out, nothing will drop in the pumpkin. Now look in the hole the axle came out of and see a big approx 2.5" diameter nut. You need a special socket to take that nut out. Sometimes they have 2 nuts for locking against each other, and sometimes they have a special lock between the 2 nuts that is bent up against one of the flats of the outside nut. Sometimes you need to take a chisel and drive it between the flat and the bent over lock, wedging it apart. The lock must be spread before you can get the big socket in there. Most auto parts places sell the needed socket, about $20. Take both nuts out and then the outer wheel bearing will come out. Now if the drum is stuck on the brake shoes, you loosen the auto adjuster as much as possible and get out the BFH. Hit on the back edge of the drum, working your way around it. DO NOT hit the backing plate. If the outer wheel bearing is out, you may be lucky and just pull the drum and hub off together. On these early type Spicer 60 rear ends, the hub and drum are press fitted together. Usually there is no reason to separate the hub and drum, unless you are replacing the brake drum. If so, you need the penetrating oil, heat, and a press to get them apart. No need to press the 8 wheel studs out of the hub, unless they are damaged and need replacement.
I have also seen this axle fitted with a single self locking big nut, instead of the 2 nuts and a lock between them, but I think that came after 1975.
Sometimes I have taken the torch and split the drum to get it off the brake shoes. This is a problem that may occur with a long period of sitting and the shoes and drum rust together. If you have to split the drum, make your torch cut at the bottom so you don't blow hot steel into the brake area, but aim your torch so the hot metal is blown towards the ground.
The easily removed drums did not occur on F250 HD and F350 Fords until almost 1990...on the full floater axle, which is what you have. The semi float axle used in the 150 and light duty 250 is a completely different deal, and some of the answers below refer to that semi float axle. I have worked on these things since the early 60s, and I do know what I am talking about.
When you put it back together, grease both the inner and outer wheel bearing and install a new axle/hub seal (inside of inner bearing). You use the 2 big nuts to adjust the tension on the wheel bearings, so check that carefully when you reassemble...not loose, but not tight...kind of like adjusting the play on a front wheel bearing. You will probably need a new lock for between the 2 big nuts also.
Good luck, I know it is a stinking dirty job, but not near as bad as dropping a tranny.
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