310 crawler

aronsonrk

New User
Just picked up a 310 crawler ser# 4027785 with weights
and clamshell bucket. Cant seem to find model or year
that start with 4. Any help appreciated
Richard
 
Congrats on your "new" crawler!
Still have the 310D? Some of us are still looking for the odd part. In my case, a good bell housing.
 
Thanks I will look tonight after work. What I saw was probably the loader as it didnt have model stamped on
plate. Is there any way to I.D. The loader year by serial #? Im thinking came from factory with this. Also
liooking for undercarriage parts. Probably like everyone else will any parts from other tractors or
crawler fit 350?
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Jean, I not sure in what post I asked for a phone number. I have only just posted couple posts asking about crawler I.D. The 310 I have is missing tag on battery box but it only has 4 bottom rollers and front sits on springs and gas tank is behind seat. My other310 is a 310D ser# 3014393. And the one I have yet to pickup is 310E ser# 3017213. The one I m trying to I.D. Is a 310C but still not sure.
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Engines (most if not all), Final Drives, Transmission/Differential, Rollers (bottom & top), Track Chains, Valves (dozers will differ), Track Frames, Idlers & Sprockets, Pedals & Levers, Loader Frames & Links, Buckets, Hyd. Pumps, & many other parts are pretty much interchangable from late 50's Terratrac models through the Case 310's to at least the 70's 350.
It's not terribly important what year the machine or loader is except for your own knowledge. Engine serial # [i:f0949bb20e]is[/i:f0949bb20e] important if you're tearing into that.
A little confused here, just how many of these things do you have?? Your pics show a gas loader w/ROPS appears to be a 310D, another loader looks to be an early 310E without its diesel, & the dozer looks to be a diesel 310E. Clamshell bucket wasn't available till maybe the 310G I think, so might be an extra bonus.
I've a '61 diesel 310E loader that I converted to rigid tracks like the 310G, rebuilt, refurbished, had [i:f0949bb20e]every[/i:f0949bb20e] bolt & screw out of it, sank untold thousands into new parts, fabrication, machining, etc. Not too many parts left over but I can sure share some of my ideas & experiences.
 
Thanks, the one with engine removed is 4cyl. Gas and I
sent out for rebuild but after the shop I sent it to had
someone else install sleeves it was returned to me as a
pile of pieces I started putting togeather but something is
not right on sleeve install so I have halted rebuild and if I
find its undercarriage is better than others will just swap
another motor in. At least thats what I hope to do. I just
need to evaluate whos is best and go from there.
 
I looked on one that I need left from drivers position has plate welded on top like frame crack repair. The Right side has a notch cut in frame under carburetor area but lots of paint to scrape to know for sure!
 
(quoted from post at 19:52:36 08/03/23) I sure do not know why you ask for my phone number and never bothered to call. [email protected]

Jean Claude, were you referring to me? I needed your number for billing I think it was but I thought we were doing fine with email...
 
aronsonrk,
I've had mine down to the frame a couple times & I don't recall seeing any machine serial numbers on it besides the tag on the left battery box.

No way as far as I know to ID from the loader frame serial, just before & after info in the parts books might give you a hint for the main machine. My 188D engine even has the date cast into the lower left side of the block in plain sight.

For some reason I thought the throttle lever was for a diesel but I realize now it's for both. That one without the engine looks like the newest model you have & the undercarriage [i:12c90af0b5]seems[/i:12c90af0b5] half-decent. If I had to choose, I'd prefer diesel, but I'll bet a carb is a lot cheaper than a fuel injection system.

If you haven't yet invested in books I suggest the 310E parts book (should cover most of what you need) and the current shop manual (covers all engines & 310s to 350). I also really like the owner's manual.

Once you get into swapping main components, some structural bolts step up from 5/8" to 3/4" depending on serial. No biggie, just drill 'em out & move on.

Please, whatever you do, don't scrap any of this stuff before letting us know!
 

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