67 Ford 2000 Top Lid Rebuild

Good Sunday afternoon everyone,

I m currently in the process of rebuilding the top lid system on my 2000. Today I removed the top lid and I m looking things over. My symptom on my tractor is I m lacking hydraulic pressure to the top lid. It does work sometimes but it is very intermittent. Now that it s cooler out it really has trouble. I purchased a blade for it and it took probably 20 minutes of the tractor running to build enough pressure to lift the blade so I could get it into the building. I kind of messed around with it before shutting the tractor off to see if the problem got better but it didn t really seem to. I know there could be a host of problems it could be but considering I already had the rebuild kit I figured I would start there. I ve got a safety valve and relief valve ordered as well so I m hoping the problem is somewhere here and not the pump. We shall see.

Ok, so the first thing I ve noticed is my tractor doesn t seem to have the high pressure tube that connects to the high pressure line and the bottom of the top lid. I ve been following along to a repair video online (picture attached of the tube in the video) and they call it the high pressure tube. My understanding is there is an ORing at the top and bottom of this tube that could cause issues as well if they re blown. I ve dug around the bottom of the housing and couldn t find it anywhere. I ve pulled the shop manual out and attached a picture as well. The only thing I could find in the manual is they refer to that piece as the "sleeve." It shows an ORing at the bottom but not at the top. Regardless of the proper terminology I don t have it.

Do you guys happen to know if the 2000 s had this tube? In the video they were working on a 3000 but stated it should be the same. If so, do you guys know where I could find one?


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(quoted from post at 15:06:03 12/04/22) I'm going to retract my statement and say maybe not. The parts book does not list one for a 2000.

I don't have my books nearby, but if one isn't listed for the 2000, it may be because the 2000 doesn't have the flow control valve.
 
(quoted from post at 12:10:52 12/04/22)
(quoted from post at 15:06:03 12/04/22) I'm going to retract my statement and say maybe not. The parts book does not list one for a 2000.

I don't have my books nearby, but if one isn't listed for the 2000, it may be because the 2000 doesn't have the flow control valve.

Thanks for the help. Bern I looked at #42 and it looks to me it was referring to a 3000 from 1965 and newer. Maybe I was reading it wrong.
 
I believe you're reading it correctly, all the more so because you don't have the tube. I made my first post
in haste before something made me circle back and double check.

I don't believe I've ever worked on that era of 3-cylinder tractor without the tube, but then maybe that's
because there aren't many 2000s in my area.
 
(quoted from post at 15:06:06 12/04/22) My 2000 has the tube. The 3000 has the flow control valve so probably no tube.

I wonder if Ford placed some with and some without? I find this unlikely though. Looks like I may need to make some calls and try to find one. I know the parts list Bern shared had one listed for $82 I believe. Holy smokes! Lol but if that will work and the ole girl needs it then so be it.
 
My 1970 2000 has that tube.

It may be stuck in the housing and did not come out with the lift cover. Its like a spacer tube a couple inches long with a o-ring on both ends.

This post was edited by Hobo,NC on 12/04/2022 at 02:19 pm.
 

I ve looked around and don t think it s there. I didn t hear anything fall when I lifted the cover BUT I hadnt drained the housing yet so it s possible it fell out into the fluid and I didn t hear it. Ive since drained it though and felt around in there. I m going to try again in a bit and see if settled in somewhere.
 
I doubt you've lost it. An old-time dealer here once told me to be careful lifting the cover. A lot of people will use a hoist and if it doesn't
come straight up it can break. That tube is about 10 or 12 inches long and will stick up out of the case or pull up with the cover. Good chance some
PO had broken it and figured it would work without it. As for your non-lift when cold, mine used to do that. No lift, slow lift or chattering lift
in cold but OK in warm weather. I went through the whole system and no change. Turned out to be the pump. Nothing wrong that I could see but worked
perfectly after I put in the kit from YT.
 
(quoted from post at 16:39:11 12/04/22) I doubt you've lost it. An old-time dealer here once told me to be careful lifting the cover. A lot of people will use a hoist and if it doesn't
come straight up it can break. That tube is about 10 or 12 inches long and will stick up out of the case or pull up with the cover. Good chance some
PO had broken it and figured it would work without it. As for your non-lift when cold, mine used to do that. No lift, slow lift or chattering lift
in cold but OK in warm weather. I went through the whole system and no change. Turned out to be the pump. Nothing wrong that I could see but worked
perfectly after I put in the kit from YT.

I appreciate all the replies. Thats my concern really that the problem will be the pump. Even in the warm weather it wasn t working right. I do believe I ve got some issues inside the Lid and may turn up once I start really going at it. Heck within a few seconds of pulling the lid I ve ran into this problem! Off to a good start I suppose! Lol.
 
There are two tubes. The longer one should be there on all models, that short one with the o-rings on both ends should only be there on models with a flow control valve, so it should not be there on a 2000. The short one is labelled #42 in the parts drawing at the link below:

[u:601546984d]Link to parts drawing for flow control valve and hydraulic tubes for 2000/3000/4000[/u:601546984d]

There are 2 part numbers listed for #42, one for all 3000 series except 3550 and the other for 3550's and all 4000 series:

42 C5NNB853B TUBE Pressure, Upper, 3000, Except 3550; (Prod Date) After 01-Jan-1965

42 81802045 TUBE 10.287 mm ID, 15.85 mm OD, 82.04 mm Length Pressure, Upper, 3550, 4000, (Not Shown); (Prod Date) After 01-Jan-1965

The longer tube is labelled #38 and should be there on all models, and there are lots of different part numbers depending on the exact model, options, and date of production:

38 C5NNB853C TUBE Pressure, Lower, 3000, Except 3500;No Longer Serviced NHNA.; (Prod Date) Between 01-Jan-1965 and 31-Mar-1968

38 C7NNB853C TUBE Pressure, 7.07'' (179.58mm), 3000, Except 3500, 3550, (Not Shown); (Prod Date) After 01-Apr-1968

38 C5NNB853D TUBE Pressure, 2000, (Not Shown);No Longer Serviced.; (Prod Date) Between 01-Jan-1965 and 31-Mar-1968

38 C7NNB853D TUBE Pressure, 12.06'' (306.32mm), 2000, (Not Shown); (Prod Date) After 01-Apr-1968

38 C5NNB853F TUBE Pressure, 13.19'' (33.503cm), 3500, (Not Shown);No Longer Serviced.; (Prod Date) Between 01-Jan-1965 and 31-Mar-1968

38 C7NNB853E TUBE Pressure, 13.19'' (335.03mm), 3500, (Not Shown);No Longer Serviced.; (Prod Date) Between 01-Apr-1968 and 31-Dec-1972

38 C5NNB853H TUBE Pressure, Lower, L/Independent PTO, 3550, 4000, Replaces C5NNB855A, (Not Shown); (Prod Date) After 01-Jan-1965

38A C5NNB853G TUBE Pressure, Lower, W/Independent PTO, 3550, 4000; (Prod Date) After 01-Jan-1965
 
I just dismantled a 2000 for some spare parts for my 3000 and the 2000 had a tube like what everyone is describing. It's a 12 inch long straight tube that runs between the top cover, down through the side of the case, and into a bore in the bottom of the case, just above where the relief valve threads into. You'll have to remove the relief valve from the bottom of the case, remove the retaining ring that's on the tube where it drops into the bottom case bore, them drop the tube out of the bottom of the case. Definitely replace both orings while you're in there. I can't say that's your problem, but if they are leaking, it could be part of your problem. I sure hope that oring isn't $82, if in fact it is, let me know and I'll measure the oring I took out of it and give you the dash size so you can get the right size somewhere.
 
(quoted from post at 23:03:49 12/04/22) I just dismantled a 2000 for some spare parts for my 3000 and the 2000 had a tube like what everyone is describing. It's a 12 inch long straight tube that runs between the top cover, down through the side of the case, and into a bore in the bottom of the case, just above where the relief valve threads into. You'll have to remove the relief valve from the bottom of the case, remove the retaining ring that's on the tube where it drops into the bottom case bore, them drop the tube out of the bottom of the case. Definitely replace both orings while you're in there. I can't say that's your problem, but if they are leaking, it could be part of your problem. I sure hope that oring isn't $82, if in fact it is, let me know and I'll measure the oring I took out of it and give you the dash size so you can get the right size somewhere.

That's the long one that all of them, including the 2000, should have. The one that the 2000 doesn't have, because it doesn't have the flow control valve, is only 1.5" to 2" long. Look at the parts drawing that I provided the link for in my last post.
 
(quoted from post at 19:32:37 12/04/22) There are two tubes. The longer one should be there on all models, that short one with the o-rings on both ends should only be there on models with a flow control valve, so it should not be there on a 2000. The short one is labelled #42 in the parts drawing at the link below:

[u:e57f2f93d3]Link to parts drawing for flow control valve and hydraulic tubes for 2000/3000/4000[/u:e57f2f93d3]

There are 2 part numbers listed for #42, one for all 3000 series except 3550 and the other for 3550's and all 4000 series:

42 C5NNB853B TUBE Pressure, Upper, 3000, Except 3550; (Prod Date) After 01-Jan-1965

42 81802045 TUBE 10.287 mm ID, 15.85 mm OD, 82.04 mm Length Pressure, Upper, 3550, 4000, (Not Shown); (Prod Date) After 01-Jan-1965

The longer tube is labelled #38 and should be there on all models, and there are lots of different part numbers depending on the exact model, options, and date of production:

38 C5NNB853C TUBE Pressure, Lower, 3000, Except 3500;No Longer Serviced NHNA.; (Prod Date) Between 01-Jan-1965 and 31-Mar-1968

38 C7NNB853C TUBE Pressure, 7.07'' (179.58mm), 3000, Except 3500, 3550, (Not Shown); (Prod Date) After 01-Apr-1968

38 C5NNB853D TUBE Pressure, 2000, (Not Shown);No Longer Serviced.; (Prod Date) Between 01-Jan-1965 and 31-Mar-1968

38 C7NNB853D TUBE Pressure, 12.06'' (306.32mm), 2000, (Not Shown); (Prod Date) After 01-Apr-1968

38 C5NNB853F TUBE Pressure, 13.19'' (33.503cm), 3500, (Not Shown);No Longer Serviced.; (Prod Date) Between 01-Jan-1965 and 31-Mar-1968

38 C7NNB853E TUBE Pressure, 13.19'' (335.03mm), 3500, (Not Shown);No Longer Serviced.; (Prod Date) Between 01-Apr-1968 and 31-Dec-1972

38 C5NNB853H TUBE Pressure, Lower, L/Independent PTO, 3550, 4000, Replaces C5NNB855A, (Not Shown); (Prod Date) After 01-Jan-1965

38A C5NNB853G TUBE Pressure, Lower, W/Independent PTO, 3550, 4000; (Prod Date) After 01-Jan-1965

Thanks for posting this! Well the best that I can tell from the diagram I have #38. I didn t look at it last night and currently I m at work but judging from this picture before I took I believe that s the tube.
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Looks the same as mine I did pull the long tube and reseal it. I remember the short tube because the lift cover came off hard and I was glad I did not get mean and break the short tube. This is the only pix I have of the cavity. As if you don't have other issues go after the brake cross shaft seals and remove the filter and clean.


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Some more pix but no short tube : (

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.c...;postorder=asc&highlight=gas&start=15

This post was edited by Hobo,NC on 12/05/2022 at 06:52 am.
 
(quoted from post at 07:45:27 12/05/22) Looks the same as mine I did pull the long tube and reseal it. I remember the short tube because the lift cover came off hard and I was glad I did not get mean and break the short tube. This is the only pix I have of the cavity. As if you don't have other issues go after the brake cross shaft seals and remove the filter and clean.


mvphoto99965.jpg


Some more pix but no short tube : (

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.c...;postorder=asc&highlight=gas&start=15

This post was edited by Hobo,NC on 12/05/2022 at 06:52 am.

Your housing looks really clean! I plan on trying to clean up everything and reseal as much as I can. I ve sent a few emails out trying to get a definite answer if the smaller high pressure tube was placed on all models. Seems like there s a yes/no split on whether I should have it on this thread. Did you replace the paper filter while you were in there? I m considering doing that as well since I ve got everything apart but my understanding is it s pretty difficult to get to.
 

I brought a new filter from Sparex I did not like the fit so cleaned the old one. I don't think its paper it looked like a wire mesh. Mine was not that dirty the one on my 3000 was full of trash. Yes I had to take a bit of stuff apart to wiggle it out it was my chance to do it so why not.
 
(quoted from post at 20:03:49 12/04/22) I just dismantled a 2000 for some spare parts for my 3000 and the 2000 had a tube like what everyone is describing. It's a 12 inch long straight tube that runs between the top cover, down through the side of the case, and into a bore in the bottom of the case, just above where the relief valve threads into. You'll have to remove the relief valve from the bottom of the case, remove the retaining ring that's on the tube where it drops into the bottom case bore, them drop the tube out of the bottom of the case. Definitely replace both orings while you're in there. I can't say that's your problem, but if they are leaking, it could be part of your problem. I sure hope that oring isn't $82, if in fact it is, let me know and I'll measure the oring I took out of it and give you the dash size so you can get the right size somewhere.

I ve been working on the tractor tonight and I have the retaining clip you re talking about off. I took the relief valve out and I can t get the tube to budge! It seems like it s in there very tight. How did you end up getting yours out?
 
While I was poking around trying to figure out how to get the tube out I found that the ORing on top of the tube is definitely blown out. I ve circled it in the picture. Now I definitely know I got to get this tube out!
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Ok, sorry for the back to back to back post here but before I go any further in this I have a couple questions. I ve attached some pictures as reference. I ve determined that the ORing on the top of the tube is completely blown so it will have to be removed. While doing some research to see if there is a video out there of the removal of the tube I ran across a video. He said in the video upon installing the tube back into the case that the stop ring will stop the tube from falling too far into the bottom part of the case. When he reinstalled his tube the top of it is left stuck out which would then go inside the top lid once it s placed back on the housing. As my tube sits now, it s completely flush. I noticed when I took my snap ring off it did not appear to be sitting in a groove on the tube. From what I can tell, my tube seems to be jammed down further than intended. I m not sure if I somehow managed to do that taking off the top lid or what happened.

Another thing I ve noticed is my relief valve is completely different than any other replacements I have found. I attached a screen shot of the video I mentioned above which shows the tube in position I explained and his relief valve which matches the replacements I ve found online. I have also attached a picture of my relief valve I removed from my tractor. I m all sorts of confused now. Hopefully someone can shed some more light on this. Thanks

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Well on the good side you are inside the bulls eye. My tube slid out I would use vice grips on the side of the tube are run a tap in it and use a slide hammer to pull it out.

I have only worked on one it did not fight me : )
 
(quoted from post at 06:39:36 12/13/22)
Well on the good side you are inside the bulls eye. My tube slid out I would use vice grips on the side of the tube are run a tap in it and use a slide hammer to pull it out.

I have only worked on one it did not fight me : )

Mine seems to be in there pretty good so I expect a 8 round fight with it! Lol. What s your thoughts on the relief valve? I know it s not uncommon for aftermarket parts to be a bit different and they ll work fine but it s about a $80 part and I d rather not go through the hassle of finding out it doesn t work later. That being said, I still haven t found a replacement that looks like mine though.
 
(quoted from post at 06:45:52 12/13/22)
(quoted from post at 06:39:36 12/13/22)
Well on the good side you are inside the bulls eye. My tube slid out I would use vice grips on the side of the tube are run a tap in it and use a slide hammer to pull it out.

I have only worked on one it did not fight me : )

Mine seems to be in there pretty good so I expect a 8 round fight with it! Lol. What s your thoughts on the relief valve? I know it s not uncommon for aftermarket parts to be a bit different and they ll work fine but it s about a $80 part and I d rather not go through the hassle of finding out it doesn t work later. That being said, I still haven t found a replacement that looks like mine though.

That was a first round KO! Lol it came out pretty easy once I stopped being a sissy about it. I ve resealed it and will have to find another snap ring to hold it in place. I still don t know about my relief valve though. I m considering going to my local New Holland dealer and see if they can figure something out on it.
 
The local dealer wasn t able to help. Apparently the vendors they used didn t carry a relief valve for a 67. I looked through my shop manual and looks like in 65 Ford installed the relief valve I currently have. In 68 Ford switched to the relief valve that s pretty readily available across various websites. Do you guys think the newer model relief valve would work for my tractor?

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All of my parts references indicate a single part number for all years for the relief valve, including an old hard copy parts manual from the early '90's. It was originally part number 957E984B, which has been superseded by part number 81717252, so I would assume that when they changed the style that the new one could be used in the early models, but I cannot say for sure.
 
Mattoney, I'm glad you got it all figured out. The snap ring was a real pain to get off because it's not really a snap ring. I'll probably replace mine with an actual snap ring when I go to reseal my 3000's lift system. Your relief valve looks just like the one I took out of the 2000 as well. Did you decide what to do about the valve?
 
(quoted from post at 22:24:20 12/14/22) Mattoney, I'm glad you got it all figured out. The snap ring was a real pain to get off because it's not really a snap ring. I'll probably replace mine with an actual snap ring when I go to reseal my 3000's lift system. Your relief valve looks just like the one I took out of the 2000 as well. Did you decide what to do about the valve?

Thanks. Well, mine wasn t that hard to remove because the force of whatever jammed the tube down into the casing pretty well took care of that for me! Lol, I m going to stop by tractor supply tomorrow and get a pack of assorted snap rings and pick out the one that fits the best as a replacement.

As far as the relief valve I have ordered the newer version which is available across various websites as a replacement. I spoke to to a couple mechanics about this and one was pretty convincing that you CAN use the newer model replacement relief valve. He said it will thread and function just fine. I hope so because no one offers a return on the item! Lol. If it doesn t seem to work maybe I can offer it to someone here for a little better deal.
 
What in the world could this be? This is wrapped around my suction filter. It s not rubber. Feels more like thin metal. I wanted to try to take this filter out and inspect it but it doesn t seem to have enough clearance to be able to take it out. I m going to try to get these removed but couldn t tell what they originally went to.
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I'm pretty sure that's the return line filter, not the suction filter, and that thing around the outside of it is a piece of the filter housing itself that has come loose from the near end and has slid down..
 

It didn t seem to want to come out. I didn t pry too hard on it but it did seem to be some sort of hanger or mounting pieces for the end of the filter. I left it alone. I don t believe it ll hurt anything. Thanks Sean!
 
One of the reasons I was trying to get to this was to access the ORing on the suction line. From what I can tell there s an ORing that seals the suction line as the tube runs from the outside of the tractor to the hydraulic housing. Ive attached a picture from the manual part number 58. While I m going through the trouble I want to try to replace as many ORings as possible as I go and I ve got an hydraulic leak in this area as well.

From my initial findings it doesn t seem there is enough clearance inside the housing to pull the suction tube out of the hole in the housing as the tube hits the inside wall. I thought maybe pulling the PTO shaft out may give me just enough clearance to rotate him just enough but it doesn t seem to likely either. There s a plate that both lines run into that mounts on the side of the tractor underneath the step board on the right side of the tractor. Has anyone removed this? This seems to be the area where im leaking hydraulic oil. Ive browsed the manual but haven t found a diagram. Thanks for the help!

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