Jubilee oil change

What are you using for a wrench? I have a what I guess is a 12 inch adjustable wrench. I adjust the jaws so they are nice and tight on the plug, then hit the end of the wrench with my hand. If that doesen't work, use a hammer on the wrench or a pipe that will fit over the wrench handle. Remember, righty tighty, leftty loosey.
 
most of my better more complete tool sets are not located where I'm at but went today and bought a 12" crescent wrench and cheater bar. I'll give it another whirl in the morning.....hope it doesn't rain.
 
If the wrench slips off the bottom, use a jack and a block
of wood to hold it up onto the plug while turning it loose.
Make sure you have a new gasket handy and clean all surfaces.
 
You better put a jack between the wrench and the floor(ground)to hold the wrench in place while using the cheater
 
Many fellas overtighten the oil drain plugs when they see a bit of oil leakage there and that is wrong. There is suppose to be a gasket between plug and pan, and may times it gets neglected. The drain plug hex size is 1-1/16" AF (Across Flats). The best tool to use is an 1-1/16" 6-POINT SOCKET, breaker bar, not a socket wrench, a 'cheater' bar (pipe), and some elbow grease,(K-Mart is sold out). First try spraying some PB-BLASTER around the plug a few times and let set for an hour or so between hits. If then it won't break free, as suggested, take a jack and a solid piece of wood and it put up against the bottom of socket and bar to keep it from slipping off. The worse thing to do to a hex fastener is round off the hex points and a Crescent Wrench, Channel Locks, Vise Grips, or an Open End Wrench will do exactly that. That's why I always use 6-point sockets. Use slow, even strokes and 'feel' that the tool isn't slipping and rounding off the hex. If using the jack, you can then use a longer cheater bar, like an old steel galvanized cyclone fence post 3-4 feet long will give you more torque. Have a buddy hold the socket end to watch for slippage and you stretch out to get leverage. HEAT is last option as there may be some gas in the oil and you don't want an accident. Butane and propane may not be hot enough though. Once off, if the plug hex is boogered up/rounded off some, get a new one. Also be sure to get a new gasket; originals were cork, some new ones are rubber. Clean and scrape any old gasket off both the hex plug surface and the oil pan surface. At reassembly, take some clean, fresh new oil, and apply a abundant amount around the plug surface, the entire new gasket both sides, and the pan seating surface. Do not use any silicone, gasket sealer, other stud-pucky substance. One final item is to be sure the drain plug has the screen on it.

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 
Have a friend put some pressure on the plug with a wrench while you smack on the plug with a cold chisel in the direction it needs to come off. Works great.
 

My neighbor told me how to fix my plug, which is totally screwed up by the PO. He welds a old junk 1/2' or 3/4" drive socket to all his oil plugs. He never has a problem with them again.

Pat
 

Forgot to say, that he has the drive of the socket out, not the hex for a bolt.

He uses a breaker bar, or ratchet to remove them.

Pat
 

Twograinscratch, stop right there! and order a new plug and a couple extra gaskets right now from this site before changing your oil. I have used the same trick as Royse and Wayne recommend, but you can still end up doing a number on the plug, so that you will want to replace it. Even if it is not too bad you want a new gasket before putting it back together, and I doubt very much that you have a spare sitting around as Tim implies that you do, LOL. So get yourself properly prepared before proceeding.
 
I finally got it off. Thanks to all the ideas. I had to support the wrench with a block of wood and with the cheater bar was able to get the plug off. Lots of good ideas!
 
Ok, I've got a question, ordered the 9N6730 Plug with screen aftermarket in lieu of the original 9N6727A3 me and my buddy finally got off. Only problem the threads are made higher up on the new plug which when tightened leave likes a 1/2 inch gap between the bottom of the pan to the plug. Any advice/solution?
 

You should start a new post of your own about this and fully give related info such as tractor, engine, and details of the problem. Classic view does not bring old posts to the top and show them, like the Modern view does. Anyone using Classic view sees only your post as an: "RE" to the title of the old posts you tagged onto, none of the background posts that may have relative backup info.
 
(quoted from post at 05:43:59 12/05/22)
You should start a new post of your own about this and fully give related info such as tractor, engine, and details of the problem. Classic view does not bring old posts to the top and show them, like the Modern view does. Anyone using Classic view sees only your post as an: "RE" to the title of the old posts you tagged onto, none of the background posts that may have relative backup info.
Ok thanks, I'm new and hadn't figured out how to create a new post yet, sorry.
 

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