Ford 555D - Rebuilding Engine - Parts Help/Confirmation

Recently purchased this machine and found #3 piston to be melted so now in the middle of an in-frame rebuild and need some help making sure I go back with correct parts.

The serial information on the bellhousing is:
DF0P1Z
4M22B
A430617

Engine:
4.4 NW
HH3 4 K 14
F0NN6015CB

Backhoe:
AB30617

ROPS:
Jan 1 1995
024156

I have read a bunch of prior posts on serial coding and the date code on the engine doesn't seem to match that on the ROPS so hoping someone can confirm the year and model. It was sold to me as a 1995 555D with a 256 Diesel engine.

Also, I pulled the following bearings out of this and they don't match the parts manual I have so curious if someone did a prior rebuild and didn't use the right parts or they have been superseded.

Crank Journal Thrust Bearing: F0NN6A339HA (STD, G, D, LX)

Journal Bearing: E9NN6A338AA (STD, G, D, MX)

Any and all help welcome so I get the right rebuild kit ordered for this machine.

Connecting Rod Bearing: E9NN6211AA (STD, G, D, LX)

4M22B says that it was assembled on December 22 in a year ending in a 4, so most likely 1994. It was probably sold as a 1995 model year tractor.

If the engine has never been rebuilt, then the parts stamped on the internal parts might not be the same as the part numbers you'll see in the manual, as they had a separate set of part numbers for the assembly line vs. the numbers that they used for the parts department when ordering replacement parts. I think it had to do with inventory reporting for tax purposes.

Thank you Sean in PA. That makes much more sense. Reading through the old posts, I was having trouble decoding the 4 to mean 1994 as most were referencing 1984 versus the last year in the decade and M
equaling December jives with the date on the ROPS.

So my next question is who makes the best rebuild kit? There seems to be plenty of vendors out there with kits, but some appear to be 'better' than others. In particular, I am not a fan of cork-rubber
gaskets for the oil pan on a machine like this one where the oil pan makes up part of the structure. I would prefer paper/fiber or other 'firmer' material similar to OEM.

Is the best option to head down to local New Holland dealer and order piece by piece? Thanks again!

Update. This in frame project turned into a full blown rebuild so I now have the block, head and crank back from the machine shop and they rebuilt the head with new valves, guides and seals but the spring retainers look awkward and I didn't take a good look at the retainers before I dropped it off at the machine shop.

This may be perfectly normal, but to me the keys look like they are too big for the retainer. Shouldn't they be almost flush with the retainer when seated?




I am new to these Ford 256 engines...is this how they should look?

Those locks look high to me. They should be above the retainer a little but that s a lot
Did they replace the guides and put new standard size valves in or did they team out the guides and install valves with oversized stems
Some don t like them but I ve have good luck with Reliance brand kits

Still working on this one and have a new question.

On the camshaft drive gear-to-block bolt...the torque spec in the back of the manual shows it to be tightened to 175 ft lbs. The instructions in the text say 43 ft lbs. I think the 43 is wrong because that is also the torque used for the camshaft gear bolt.

Can anyone confirm? I don't want to overtighten and end up ruining the block but also don't want to under tighten and have it come loose.

I ran into this while working on a 30 series engine
Apparently some or all of the later service manuals torque specs were not converted from Newton meters to pound ft
Book called for 99 lbs torque on the rod bolts, found out the European manual called for 99 newton meters

My older service manual say cam gear to block torque 100-105 lbs
If you book is calling for 160 lb head bolt torque that is newton meters as well
The later 9/16 head bolts torque to 120 lbs

(quoted from post at 17:59:18 01/30/23)
I ran into this while working on a 30 series engine
Apparently some or all of the later service manuals torque specs were not converted from Newton meters to pound ft
Book called for 99 lbs torque on the rod bolts, found out the European manual called for 99 newton meters

My older service manual say cam gear to block torque 100-105 lbs
If you book is calling for 160 lb head bolt torque that is newton meters as well
The later 9/16 head bolts torque to 120 lbs

Click to expand...

I posted pics of the manual showing the discrepancy. I am not sure it is a conversion issue.

After looking at your chart and 3 of my manuals I'm finding some very questionable torque numbers
On the cam drive gear my books call for 103-105 lb ft while yours calls for 175 lb ft, I do not think that 1/2 inch bolt can take 175 lb ft of torque
My books call for the crank pulley torque of 165 lb ft, yours calls for 210. funny thing is both mine and yours list 224 newton meters which converts to 165 lb ft
the cam gear itself is close in all books with 2 of my old books calling for 45 lb while my newer book and yours calls for 43
I've sent a message to another group member in the UK asking for a photo of their newton meter torques hoping we can convert them into useable torque numbers

(quoted from post at 23:43:04 01/30/23)
After looking at your chart and 3 of my manuals I'm finding some very questionable torque numbers
On the cam drive gear my books call for 103-105 lb ft while yours calls for 175 lb ft, I do not think that 1/2 inch bolt can take 175 lb ft of torque
My books call for the crank pulley torque of 165 lb ft, yours calls for 210. funny thing is both mine and yours list 224 newton meters which converts to 165 lb ft
the cam gear itself is close in all books with 2 of my old books calling for 45 lb while my newer book and yours calls for 43
I've sent a message to another group member in the UK asking for a photo of their newton meter torques hoping we can convert them into useable torque numbers

Click to expand...

Thank you for your help so far on this!

I checked the bolt size and it is a 5/8 11 TPI GR8 bolt and I have found anywhere from 160 to 210 ftlbs as a recommended torque so am feeling better about the 175 in the book.

I am waiting on a new bushing and insert as the one I pulled off was pretty worn but if you find anything concrete before then, please let me know.

I am going to work on the valve issue above while waiting on parts as I am still not quite sure what the machine shop did. My fear is that they didn't replace the cups that the keys go down into along with the valves or something but I haven't actually taken one apart to see how it all looks.