'67 2000 gas with brand new zenith carb leaking

So I'm somewhat at wits end right now with this 2000 that I picked up a month ago. I had the holly carb and wasn't getting fuel, so I cleaned everything and installed a new fuel pump. Then couldn't keep the fuel out. Every post I saw said to buy a zenith, so I bit the bullet, ordered a 13913b, and that came in.

Installed it last night, Opened the fuel valve, and she cracked right open until 10 seconds later, it bogged down and died, pouring fuel out of the carb air intake. I went in and bent the float down a little bit, and I had the same problem. Runs for 10 seconds and then pukes fuel out. Passes the "blowing on the fuel input" test for stopping fuel flow into the bowl, but as soon as I put it on the tractor, it runs for a bit and spits out fuel. I resorted to trying to crack the fuel valve only a bit and metering that way, which sort of works but seems like a dumb way to do that.

What am I missing?
I think the only reason the carb should be pouring fuel out would be a flooded bowl, correct? The only other thought is that that zenith is not supposed to be fed by a pump and should be gravity fed, but that doesn't make much sense as everything I have read says the zenith is plug-and-play.

>Edit for wording and Clarification

This post was edited by PWaubs on 03/28/2023 at 03:15 pm.

WOW I have had problems with my Carb in the past previous owner beat the heck out of it trying to free a stuck float which it occasionally still has problems with occasionally, I my self don't beat on it I have other ways to deal with Stuck floats pulling float bowel.

BUT I was about to buy a New Zenith carb from Yesteryear NOW I am thinking twice.

I hope your able to get to the bottom of this quickly as you shouldn't have any problems with a $600 carb ZERO! ZILCH! NADA! That thing should be Base adjusted perfectly to work in any application it works on with only basic minor adjustments required for your application.

As I said I was about to buy one today but now I am having second thoughts! Thank you for heads up.

(quoted from post at 18:54:12 03/28/23) So I'm somewhat at wits end right now with this 2000 that I picked up a month ago. I had the holly carb and wasn't getting fuel, so I cleaned everything and installed a new fuel pump. Then couldn't keep the fuel out. Every post I saw said to buy a zenith, so I bit the bullet, ordered a 13913b, and that came in.

Installed it last night, Opened the fuel valve, and she cracked right open until 10 seconds later, it bogged down and died, pouring fuel out of the carb air intake. I went in and bent the float down a little bit, and I had the same problem. Runs for 10 seconds and then pukes fuel out. Passes the "blowing on the fuel input" test for stopping fuel flow into the bowl, but as soon as I put it on the tractor, it runs for a bit and spits out fuel. I resorted to trying to crack the fuel valve only a bit and metering that way, which sort of works but seems like a dumb way to do that.

What am I missing?
I think the only reason the carb should be pouring fuel out would be a flooded bowl, correct? The only other thought is that that zenith is not supposed to be fed by a pump and should be gravity fed, but that doesn't make much sense as everything I have read says the zenith is plug-and-play.

>Edit for wording and Clarification

This post was edited by PWaubs on 03/28/2023 at 03:15 pm.

Click to expand...

I m having the same problem with my Holley carb..well before I dug myself a hole with ignition stuff. But before that, Fuel pours into it, if I metered it with the shutoff, I could get good results. Obviously not a solution, but once I get my ignition back on track, I will jerk off the carb and take a peek inside. Last year I cleaned it out, but must ve missed something.

Anyway, sorry to rant about my problem, I would ve bet that zenith worked, but I don t have any basis to say that other than it being new.

Cats on here are really helpful, more than willing to help work with you they problems. I ve got a good thread going to prove it.

Did you check the float needle tip with a magnifying glass?
Look for speck of dirt or mis-cast shape or some damage of
some kind? Ditto for the needle seat - did you take it out? (I
cant remember how the Zeniths are mounted - standard screw-
in design? Check to make sure the needle-to-float connecting
wire clip is put in correctly so that its not binding on the float
arm. Ditto for the float arm pin/axle, and is it firmly seated in
the tabs.



Lastly, do you know for certain that you have the correct
replacement carb? You have a 67 and 65-67 governors,
gov-to-carb linkages, and carb crank arms were different than the 68-74 models. I havent heard of any carb mismatch issues but Im
just throwing the idea out for consideration. Heres the relevant
page from the CNH parts list. Note the different carb part
numbers for the different years. I knew about this difference
before we bought a Zenith for our 65 3000, so I dont have any
experience with putting a 68-74 carb on an earlier tractor.
Ford 65 74 carb parts list

The Seat seems to be okay, other than the fact that the needle valve seems to be a little looser in the bore of the valve than the Holley carb, so I guess that could cause a bit of leakage, though I would have thought that if I couldn't blow through the valve with test gas in the float it would be sealing okay.

The Spring on the throttle arm is pretty stretched out, Is that connected to the fuel pump? Does that affect fuel flow into the carb, or I guess technically, it could be overfilling the main jet? I'll take a picture in the morning and adjust the arm to see if that also makes a difference With a before and after. I thought that the governor simply opened the throttle versus adding a bunch of extra fuel and was separate from the fuel pump and/or the amount of fuel let into the bowl.

Youre correct that the gov only controls the throttle. It isnt
connected to or controlled ny the fuel pump. An incorrect
throttle setting could result in flooding the carb, with gas
running out of it. You may have seen this happen with a no-
start. Possibly try disconnecting the gov linkage from the carb
& see what happens?

(quoted from post at 22:35:26 03/30/23) Youre correct that the gov only controls the throttle. It isnt
connected to or controlled ny the fuel pump. An incorrect
throttle setting could result in flooding the carb, with gas
running out of it. You may have seen this happen with a no-
start. Possibly try disconnecting the gov linkage from the carb
& see what happens?

Click to expand...

Hello,
I'm having the same problem. I bought the same brand new Zenith Carb and I also installed a new fuel pump. When my carb flooded, I thought something was wrong with the new carb so I sent it back to Zenith. They replace needle and seat and adjusted float and tested the carb and said it run's good and sent it back to me. I reinstalled carb and it flooded again. My thought was then that the fuel pump is too strong for the float. I put a pressure regulator on the fuel line and the pump busted the 3/8 rubber connecting fuel line. I then thought I have a bad fuel pump so I bought another pump and took the pressure regulator off. When I cranked the tractor, the carb flooded again!!! Were do we go from here?

If it's got a fuel pump and it's bypassing the needle and seat most logical test would be a fuel pressure test of the pump pressure. Too much pressure and no needle will hold it back.

I got to thinking - Ive seen this before and it turned out to be
gov-related. On a 2-wheel Gravely w/a gov, the gov would pull
full-open throttle without warning, the engine would
immediately bog and gas would run out of the carb, flooding
everything, and the engine would die. It all happened in a few
seconds, the engine never had the chance to spin up any more
rpm even with that full throttle.



I futzed with the gov a bit, gave up & bypassed it & went direct
throttle cable to carb. Its worked fine for me for years (side
note: in our use, we do almost everything at half-throttle).



So, again I suggest disconnecting the carb-to-gov linkage and
see what happens.

First let me say I am not a Ford guy but hopefully I can
give some insight. One possible problem that can
cause issues with float needles seating properly is fine
metal shavings or other debris that gets embedded in
the rubber tip of the needle. Sometimes the material
comes from the act of threading the fuel line into the
carb fitting especially if the line is not bent just right so
the threads are not aligned correctly. So when you take
the carb off and open it check the rubber tip very
closely with a magnifying glass to make sure nothing is
embedded in it. Now this is going to expose you to a
few questionable things but it is a very good It test to
check the float needle is sealing properly. What you do
is assemble the needle and float on the top half of the
carb. Hold the carb top upside down so the weight of
the float is holding the float needle closed. Then suck
on the inlet fitting then place your tongue over the
fitting. The float needle should seal and hold vacuum
against your tongue at least a 5 seconds.

Respectfully, the poster suggesting that the governor
may have some effect on the level of fuel in the carb
bowl or making it flood is misunderstanding how a
carburetor works. My guess is he had other problems
and some how disconnecting the governor let him get
around his problem. I would also say that whatever
caused his problem worked itself out so now he could
reconnect his governor and the machine would run
fine. The only possible scenario I could see that may
cause a carb to react unacceptably to a governor
could be as follows. The carb may not be able to
provide fuel properly at a full throttle request. Running
the carb with the governor disconnected you are
probably less likely to quickly open the throttle plate
wide open when the engine quickly encounters a heavy
load. So in my assessment the carb was his issue and
not the governor.

(quoted from post at 13:51:25 03/31/23) Sometimes the material
comes from the act of threading the fuel line into the
carb fitting especially if the line is not bent just right so
the threads are not aligned correctly.

Click to expand...

Just happened to me right now.

Is it possible that the fuel pump I have purchase would be for a Diesel motor? I have looked to see if a Ford 2000 diesel has a lift pump but cant find one. If there is a lift pump for a diesel motor that mounts the same, it would explain the high pressure.

(quoted from post at 14:12:43 03/31/23) Is it possible that the fuel pump I have purchase would be for a Diesel motor? I have looked to see if a Ford 2000 diesel has a lift pump but cant find one. If there is a lift pump for a diesel motor that mounts the same, it would explain the high pressure.

Click to expand...

on't believe you could mount diesel pump on gas engine.

(quoted from post at 14:12:43 03/31/23) Is it possible that the fuel pump I have purchase would be for a Diesel motor? I have looked to see if a Ford 2000 diesel has a lift pump but cant find one. If there is a lift pump for a diesel motor that mounts the same, it would explain the high pressure.

Click to expand...

I believe that the CAV pump on a 3 cylinder diesel 2000 had the lift pump inside the main injection pump. Definitely didn't have a lift pump up on the front of the engine where the mechanical pump for the gas model is located.

It definitely seems like it's an over-fueling issue and not a governor issue. Removed the spring, and it's still bogging down and then flooding. The suction test worked fine, with holding my tongue for more than 20 seconds with no problem and holding air until I lifted up on the float. What it is looking like by my untrained eye is that the bowl is filling up until it hits the flood passage and coming pouring out the overflow. I reset the float height back to normal, with little success, still flooding out. I could switch back to the old fuel pump, which had way less pressure but was beat up, which seems dumb, as the new pump should be fine.

Edit: I've decided that I'm going to reinstall the old pump, after thoroughly cleaning it. I just read somewhere that the new pumps are pushing in the realm of 15-20psi, and that is simply too much for the needle/seat in the older tractors. I don't really have a good way to test fuel pressure, so I'm going to go off intuition (that I have literally zero of) and hope that the older pumps were build to a lower spec pressure and that It will still be able to keep the tractor from starving for fuel. The screens good in both pumps, so fuel contamination seems unlikely. I just have to say, growing up we had a 3000 on the farm and I don't ever remember it being this fickle, so hopefully once this stuff is resolved, I can just put the lipstick on the pig and be done with really having to mess around with her.

This post was edited by PWaubs on 03/31/2023 at 03:21 pm.

Is the replacement pump the same type as the original, a mechanical pump driven by the plunger off of the front of the camshaft?

So old Fuel pump did the trick, as far as I can tell. Word to the wise about the new fuel pumps. Luckily most of the old fuel pump parts are pretty universal, and The pump works like a champ after almost 60 years

Appreciate you updating with the solution. I recently replaced my pump, a CNH Gold pump from India.

Glad you solved the problem but it's a shame you didn't test pressure to see if it really was the problem.

Appreciate your gov and carb thoughts. My situation was a 50 yr old machine of unknown history. As for the thought about this occurring at advanced throttle setting, no it wasnt. This happened at idle - the gov would pull WOT when the throttle lever was firmly set at idle. Could be a worn-out governor.