Sprayer plumbing

yessam

Member
I need to replace the regulator bypass valve on my sprayer, as the picture shows it is an all in one combo The line going into is directly off the pump ,and the out line goes to the booms. .Does anyone know where I can get one or another way to replumb in with just a regulator and bypass valve. TIA
mvphoto103799.jpg
 
The plumbing should go from tank to pump, then from pump, it should have a line teed off to the agitation, and the other side to the booms. With a ball valve in the agitation line you can set pressure with booms on then leave set till empty or for the season. That is how mine works. I could get an electric valve to set pressure as I drove would be better. IF using a roller pump then the regulator would probably work just fine as a bypass program. Still need the tee in the pressure line for the regulator to bypass to the tank. IT can't come from the tank and go to the booms and back to tank in the same line with no restriction or you will not get any spray out the nozzles.
 
Roller pump or centrifugal pump on your sprayer? Looks like a shut-off valve to me. If a centrifugal pump the tee valve to the left is
partially closed to control pressure in your system. Or the center valve controls how much pressure and volume is going into the tank
for agitation.
 
I think I can figure out how that works, but Ive bot really seen a setup like that before.

Is there a name, initials, or model number stamped,into that valve somewhere?

Paul
 
In the picture, the line on the right side is straight from the roller pump, into pressure gauge, through 2 solenoid valves, into the regulator/bypass. It's the vertical black piece off the elbow. It empties to the tank. Any farm store should have them. Hope this helps.



This post was edited by Briar Hill Brittanys on 03/27/2023 at 04:57 am.
 
We had one like that back in the day my wife nephew still uses it .It was a knock off of a john blue sprayer about half the price.The regulator valve is easy to repair all it has is a oring and a gasket , 2 screws hold the whole assembly together. Pull the adjuster out and replace the oring on the shaft and you are good to go.
 

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