Fuel Sediment Bowl

I recently replaced the entire fuel sediment bowl assembly on my 9n. The replacement assembly did not have the fuel tank filter like the original assembly and it doesn't look like I can remove and reuse the filter. Is this a concern? Also, the gasket which goes between the glass bowl and the valve body is slightly smaller in diameter than the original gasket and it leaks like a sieve. I'm hoping the gasket will soften in the gas and the leak will stop.
Anyone else experience these "abnormalities"?

I've never seen a Bulb new without the internal screen attached but then I buy from only 2 or 3 quality suppliers -see LINK below. The screen is soldered on, original
anyway, so no, not reaaly worth it to try. Is the gasket cork or rubber? Should be a 2 cork gasket. Again, it matters where you buy from. Cheapo Asian made stuff
today is usually junk. Was there a problem with the old Sediment Bulb? Leaking issue? If that was the case, there are two usual culprits. The first is the Valve Stem,
p/n APN-9194, a $6-7 item. It is the only part on the Bulb that wears. There is a rubber 'seal' that eventually gets chewed up and thus will leak. The 2nd is if the
threads on the bulb got boogered up and cross threaded. Fueal and Barke liens use special therad size, 7/16-24 UNS. The Bulb Assembly is made of aluminum, and can get
cross threaded if not correctly fastened. Always start these fuel fittings by hand first so you get the 'feel'. With a new Stem you get the knurled knob with the 8-32
screw an star washer. I highly advise you aply a dab of ThreadLocking Sealant when you assemble it. The knob screw is prone to failure as it may loosen up and thus the
knob falls off, and it's always in the field when you don't notice it, only realizing when you go to shut down the tractor. Be sure to get the filter that is soldered
onto the brass fuel elbow at the carb. The elbow has to have the fuel line removed first and it uses a 1/8-NPT thread to carb.

SEDIMENT BULB VALVE STEM, p/n APN-9194:
NOTE: WORN SEALS


Tim Daley(MI)
SEDIMENT BULB ASSEMBLY

Sounds like you weren't sold the correct assembly and the one you got is poor. Send or take it back.
That stem that goes up into the tank is part of the reserve fuel system. Not just a filter.

(quoted from post at 09:39:15 03/24/23) Sounds like you weren't sold the correct assembly and the one you got is poor. Send or take it back.
That stem that goes up into the tank is part of the reserve fuel system. Not just a filter.

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I was wondering if the filter in the tank was necessary. Todays' gasoline is refined more than it was in 1939. The new assembly was in my box of back-up parts. Don't know where I got it from so I'll just have to purchase a new one, hopefully with a tank filter this time. Thanks.

None of my tractors have the filter in the tank. Even the 9-n has a replacement Fuel sediment bowel and I don't think it has one. A couple old work tractors have short stand pipes that keeps the dirt -water
and rust on the bottom below the flowing gas. The mmoisture trap and screen in Sediment bowel are easy to clean) I have used the in tank filters with good success but how in the world do you clean them if it
gets clogged with a bunch of gas in the tank. The only way is to attempt to drain the tank and remove the whole thing. It does look like the original replacement may have been open on the top so at least you
could keep running it as a clogged stand pipe?

(quoted from post at 20:53:55 03/23/23) I recently replaced the entire fuel sediment bowl assembly on my 9n. The replacement assembly did not have the fuel tank filter like the original assembly and it doesn't look like I can remove and reuse the filter. Is this a concern? Also, the gasket which goes between the glass bowl and the valve body is slightly smaller in diameter than the original gasket and it leaks like a sieve. I'm hoping the gasket will soften in the gas and the leak will stop.
Anyone else experience these "abnormalities"?

Click to expand...

The one sold here has the screen inside the tank, but it is open ended. Fuel flow is thru the standpipe in the normal two turns open setting and when the valve is fully opened, fuel flow in4to filter lower inside of the screen. got two of them, work good!

The screen in the tank has nothing to do with the difference in gas quality in 1939 and today. It's there to keep rust particles, both ferrous and non-
ferrous out of the carb. The rust will normally settle to the bottom of the tank and get stirred up as the fuel level gets lower, hence the filter .
(actually, it's a screen)

The screen in the top of the sediment bowl also helps.
75 Tips

(quoted from post at 13:28:34 03/24/23) The screen in the tank has nothing to do with the difference in gas quality in 1939 and today. It's there to keep rust particles, both ferrous and non-
ferrous out of the carb. The rust will normally settle to the bottom of the tank and get stirred up as the fuel level gets lower, hence the filter .
(actually, it's a screen)

The screen in the top of the sediment bowl also helps.
75 Tips

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I appreciate all the input and take it all to heart. CLEDDY is right; the only way way to know if the filter screen in the tank is clogged is to remove the whole assembly from the tank. Not a typical part of the maintenance and knowing me, I would forget about that filter and try to rebuild the carb if the engine didn't start. I think it's easier to change the round filter screen inside the sediment bowl a dozen times than to mess with the tank filter even once. Think I will go this season without the tank screen and monitor the sediment bowl screen. BTW, when I drained the tank to replace the assembly, there was NO particles of dirt or rust in the drained gasoline.

As someone said the screen is open at the top so it will flow gas when there is plenty in the tank even if the screen is clogged. What I can tell you from my own experience with todays clean gasoline is that with no screen that little tube of the pickup can easily get clogged. I had reduced fuel flow and pulled the bowl from the tank and the fuel pickup tube had gotten clogged as I didn't have a screen.
Henry Ford was tighter than anyone and if he felt the screen was a waste of money he wouldn't have paid to put them on these tractors.

(quoted from post at 07:50:50 03/25/23) As someone said the screen is open at the top so it will flow gas when there is plenty in the tank even if the screen is clogged. What I can tell you from my own experience with todays clean gasoline is that with no screen that little tube of the pickup can easily get clogged. I had reduced fuel flow and pulled the bowl from the tank and the fuel pickup tube had gotten clogged as I didn't have a screen.
Henry Ford was tighter than anyone and if he felt the screen was a waste of money he wouldn't have paid to put them on these tractors.

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So turning the fuel knob more than two full turns pulls the gasoline (reserve) from the very bottom of tank which could have debris, rust scale, who knows. This all started because the fuel knob had become increasingly hard to turn to the point that it broke off. Upon examination of the inside of the valve, there was a fair amount of bluish-gray scaling, maybe corrosion? Maybe that caused the problem with turning the valve. Anyway, I now think that it is good insurance to have the gas tank filter installed on the replacement bowl assembly.
I have not found on YTs parts list availability to but just the tank screen. Do I need to buy the entire sediment bowl assembly?

Many motorcycles,especially older ones,use the same type of screen for the petcock. You might look at online
catalogs for 73+- Yamaha Enduros,which my tractor has in the tank for prescreening the fuel. Most
motorcycles have similar filters.

Oh man it bothers me like nothing else that I have to drain the tank to remove this filter.
Is there a valve I could install right under the tank, then some kind of replaceable filter?

Aftermarket replaceable filters are usually a recipe for a problem or a fire.

I'm gonna use this one https://www.knfilters.com/81-0300-replacement-fuel-filter I had to remove the bowl assembly this weekend to find out there is a dead bug inside that mesh filter on the top of the bowl. Why when they make those filters on top they don't close them? If it was closed the bug will never get in there and stop the fuel flow.

(quoted from post at 05:33:13 03/29/23) I'm gonna use this one https://www.knfilters.com/81-0300-replacement-fuel-filter I had to remove the bowl assembly this weekend to find out there is a dead bug inside that mesh filter on the top of the bowl. Why when they make those filters on top they don't close them? If it was closed the bug will never get in there and stop the fuel flow.

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Installing that filter will require the use of rubber hoses to install it. I would just keep the steel fuel line and keep the bugs out of the fuel tank.

(quoted from post at 05:33:13 03/29/23) I'm gonna use this one https://www.knfilters.com/81-0300-replacement-fuel-filter

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I have a temp tank on mine and I used one fo those and a brass ball valve for a shut off. Actually works very well. I had to use rubber fuel line but, I have steel from the carb a good way up to keep it away from the hot bits.

The setup has good flow. Those kinds of filters have a nice fine mesh. No good for a water trap but... oh well.

KristofMI said:

Oh man it bothers me like nothing else that I have to drain the tank to remove this filter.
Is there a valve I could install right under the tank, then some kind of replaceable filter?

Click to expand...

How did you drain the tank to get filter out of tank?

Mark in Washington said:

I recently replaced the entire fuel sediment bowl assembly on my 9n. The replacement assembly did not have the fuel tank filter like the original assembly and it doesn't look like I can remove and reuse the filter. Is this a concern? Also, the gasket which goes between the glass bowl and the valve body is slightly smaller in diameter than the original gasket and it leaks like a sieve. I'm hoping the gasket will soften in the gas and the leak will stop.
Anyone else experience these "abnormalities"?

Click to expand...

Do you have the correct part? It is 2N-9155-B. It doesn't sound like it. Don't depend on hope or wishes or magical fairies to fix problems. Do you want to rely on hopes for a fuel leak issue? Root cause problem solving is the answer for any problem. Parts Manuals help so much. Know what and how each works. When a leaking issue arises on these, 9 times out of 10 it is the 9194 Valve Stem. It is the only working part on the Bulb. There is a seal on the inners shaft that wears out and will leak eventually. OEM seal was an oil and gas resistant rubber. New ones today can be cheap vinyl and thus gets chewed up and destroyed fast. It is a $6 part and you don't need to buy a whole new complete Sediment Bulb and replace it. 3 Screens are in the N fuel system as shown. The brass elbow that connects the fuel line to carb has an affixed internal screen on it that often gets neglected to remove and clean as part of your PM. The new Valve Stem includes the knurled control knob, the 8-32 Screw and lockwasher that secures it on but new ones can often fall off in the field and get lost forever. My solution and advice is to apply a dab of Threadlocker on the screw when you assemble it. You won't lose the knob and when you get a new stem it will have new parts anyway. FWIW & FYI: Fuel and Brake lInes use an industry special thread size on the fittings. It is 7/16-24 UNS - Unified National Special. Sediment Bulb to Fuel tank is 1/8" NPT.

The original early 9N Sediment Bulb was a brass unit. Do you have one?

Tim Daley (MI)

Mark in Washington said:

I recently replaced the entire fuel sediment bowl assembly on my 9n. The replacement assembly did not have the fuel tank filter like the original assembly and it doesn't look like I can remove and reuse the filter. Is this a concern? Also, the gasket which goes between the glass bowl and the valve body is slightly smaller in diameter than the original gasket and it leaks like a sieve. I'm hoping the gasket will soften in the gas and the leak will stop.
Anyone else experience these "abnormalities"?

Click to expand...

Do what I did. Order a new sediment bowl assembly and a new steel line from Just 8Ns. Fit perfectly and no leaks.