Day two (trailer update)

Hey yall!! Well, today was a whopping 62 degrees with driving winds and cloudy skies here in Ohio, but I didn't mind. When I got home from school today, I went out to work on this project. I dragged out my little three-ton jack, torch set, 1/2" kobalt sockets, and put in my ipod, and then just started digging into things, following GordoSD's advice...

And I got way farther than I thought I would. I pulled off the front wheels and be-headed the last of the fender bolts, drained the radiator and removed that, and just in general started pulling things off the truck. I don't know what 90% of this stuff is, but I know its not part of the trailer, so off it goes. This is how far I got before I started getting hungry, and it started getting dark outside:





And I busted loose the two rear cab mounts while I was at it. Nothing special, just a breaker bar and pipe over it. I got one fairly loose, and then it just started turning, making this grinding/rubbing noise, so I stuck my jack under the body and jacked it up some, and this is what it looked like:



So, I'm fairly certain that it came loose....

But, if the other three don't let go as easily, should I torch them?? The one that came off is closest to the gas tank, and all the fuel/brake lines appear to be on the driver's side of the truck. I guess if all else fails, I should be able to torch the mounts on the passenger's side?? Idk...

And tomorrow, My goal is to cut the frame and pull the cab off, so that I can take it in as scrap bright and early on Saturday morning, and order steel to build this on Monday afternoon. I'm planning on trying to not spend much out of pocket on this project, because I'm saving up for a real drill press, and a spring break trip I'm going on later in April, so the more stuff that I can haul off to the scrap yard, the better.

I'm also not sure what to do with the engine. Its a 2.8 v6 with attached 5 spd, all with 327,000 miles on it. I don't imagine that many people would want to buy either, so maybe I'm better off just hauling them in, than listing them on craigslist and dealing with tire-kickers, low ballers, etc, to in the end, get scrap price for this stuff. Any ideas??

Well guys, thanks for reading/watching/etc. To everyone who wonders "Why", well, why not?? Haha, its a cool project that I'm making out of something that would just head off to china if I weren't doing this with it, and besides, its actually really fun, once you get into it. And, i'll have a trailer to use, that works really well for my purposes and is something that I can point to and say "I made that", which is a feeling that you can't buy. And, its welding practice for me. Today at school, I started messing around with 3/16" 6010s, about 180ish amps, and that was great. I really like to weld, so why not turn that into something productive, and I'm definatly learning a lot about trucks/trailers/layout as I go. And to everyone else, thanks for the kind words of encouragement. Especially the nay-sayers, they're really encouraging, regardless of what they're trying to be.

looks good so far, think maybee you should block it up better, and get that dang gas tank the ell off of it!

Think SAFETY! Have a fire extinguisher and/or a garden hose ready. You've got some dry grass and a big pile of brush within about 15 ft of where you're working. Only takes one errant spark. Before you light up your torch again, get the gas tank off. The bush burning would be minor compared to the gas tank blowing you and everything else up.

Want another good project? Make your self some decent jack stands. They'll come in handy for lots of things and are 10 times better than cinder blocks. Don't be in a hurry, you'll only get discouraged if you run into a problem. Take your time and think through what you want to accomplish. When you get to cutting a notch to bend the frame rails in, don't make too much of a notch or you'll have a big gap to fill. You can always make the notch a little wider once you start bending the rails in. It's hard to tell but it looks like the gauges for your torch are angled back. I think they're supposed to be vertical(sticking straight up). The only exception is on a Linde acetylene cylinder where the connection is sticking straight up and you look down at the gauges. You can go really fast with those 3/16" 6010 to prevent warping. You still whip them back and forth but it's almost like your pulling the bead along. You could get weld longer than the rods. I worked at shop building lots of skids with checker plate tops for gas plants and other oilfield production equipment. All the checker plate seams were done with 6010. You get a flat bead that's rough and prevents warping at the seams. Most other places use 7024 but with the 3/16" 6010 you can weld even faster. Doesn't need to be a lot of strength because the checker plate is also stitch welded on the bottom. Want to be a real welder? Practice some overhead with those 3/16" 6010. Then if someone questions if you can weld, you can show them the scars to prove it. LoL You're doing good, just don't forget about safety. Too many people get injured because they're in too much of a hurry.

Good Luck in making your trailer. PLEASE!!! Don't use cinder blocks for blocking to hold up your truck or anything else. They are only an accident waiting to happen. I'm waiting to see a picture of the trailer when you are done.

Howdy,
Lanse, I'm like most of the others, amazed at how far you have come with your welding, attitude and skills. The only thing I can say about this project is take some time to jack that truck up and make it solid. You won't finish it if it falls on you. You need to have it high enough so you can see underneath, all the bolts are visible from underneath. In the old days we would just roll the thing on it's side and torch off the bolts (after gas tank was removed). With that "junk yard" method we would strip a car in half an hour. The main thing however is not to do something stupid that will stay with you the rest of your life. Welders have to be flexible, it would be hard to do your best work with a crushed arm etc. Build yourself some good jack stands, you have the skills.
Bob S.

Lanse, call the junkyards and see if they will give you anything for the motor and such. I think I would stick the radiator and core support (that big chunk that the radiator is connected to) on Ebay if it's still solid. Doors, too. Put a minimum price on, give them a week or two, if they don't sell, haul em in. Tear the motor apart, too, if you scrap it. The aluminum in the pistons alone is worth the effort. A lot of places won't give you as much for a complete motor because they have to tear them down to separate the metals.

If you decide to put the motor and transmission on Ebay, leave it as complete as you can. If it runs good, leave the stuff that halped it run good on it. I love seeing something on there "engine for thisorthat tractor, ran good when disassembled". It'll be stripped down to the short block, no carb or ignition, or injection pump, manifolds, nothing.

How much gas is in the tank? If it's half full or better, it will be too rich for an explosion. It would burn, but not explode. Old-time body guys wouldn't work around a gas tank with a welder unless it was full.

Lanse, when I was a young man, I saw a preacher just crawl out from under a 1961 Buick when the concrete blocks crumbled and it came down in a cloud of dust. It woulda killed him had he not been free of it. At least find some cut-off 6X6 material for cribbing. Remember also - a jack stand can sink into the ground and upset things. They MUST be used on a solid surface.

Around my place, if I got trapped under something, Mama wouldn't miss me until I didn't show up for supper. It would make for a real long day.

Or a real short one.

Have fun with your project, but don't get under nothing heavy without good support.

Paul

Gas tanks aren't something to experiment with as far as how much gas is needed for an explosion. Draining the tank and removing it is the only safe way to go. It has to come off anyways.

I normally don't hit people up on safety issues but in this case I've got to agree with PJH on the safety issue created by the concrete blocks....especially laying on their side like that. Just FYI the block has very little strength on it's side. It's strength is with the holes vertical but even then I wouldn't want to work under anything resting on blocks like that either. With the holes vertical there is so little surface area on the ground that they can sink on one side and turn over without much provocation on all but the hardest, most level surface.

Personally I had an Uncle that got crushed underneath a car years ago. The concrete blocks he was using to keep it in the air crumbled when the car shifted due to him trying to break something lose. He survived but was in pain and on disability for the rest of his life because of the injuries he sustained.

Your way to young and have way too much promise to be getting yourself hurt or killed over something like this project. If you've got any 'extra' money PLEASE spend it on something else to use to crib stuff up before you get under it. Worst case scenario, find an oak log and cut youself some blocks out of it....and don't kill yourself with the chainsaw doing it either......

Other than that good luck with the project. I don't always say anything but I've seen you come along way over the few years you've been posting on here. I wish there were more kids around my area with your enthusiasm.

Your concrete blocks will crumble.You have them set in their weakest position.Go to a sawmill and buy some 8x8 cribbing.I am one of the nay sayers and have caught a lot of crap for saying work safe.A fellow I knew died under a junk car when it fell on him.The gas tank should come out first.Dont think your idea to make a trailer out of a pickup is something new.I did my last one over 45 years ago and my dad did one in the late 40s.I tipped the truck on its side with a tractor loader.I left the tractor in place so the truck couldnt roll back on me.I cut the cab loose and cut the frame far enough forward to bend it in to make the hitch.I never spent time taking off doors, fenders etc.Do you know the a shot of Freon in the eyes can blind you?

Nice Idea, Lanse!
I'm not gonna preach to you about the blocking, as all the others have made the point of safety!
I would recommend getting the gas tank out of there, since (full, 1/2 full, empty) it's gotta come out of there anyhow!
Where at in Ohio did you say you were?
.......Anyway, have fun, be safe, keep us updated!

Lanse,
As usual you put a smile on my face this morning.
You wish to learn, you ask the right questions, you pay attention to the answers, you have ambition, all missing from most your age. I wish I lived close enough to come watch and lend you a hand when you needed it. Supposed to be REAL nice Sunday


Like one of the others said scrap is high right now. My sons hauled a smallish pickup load last week and came home with close to $300.Butch

Hey yall... Well yeah, I definatly plan on losing
the cinder blocks now, thanks for the heads up
about that. I"ve got some jack stands, and some
ceader chunks that I could cut up, but since I
already got most everything off the front end that
I need, I"ll probabally just pull the blocks out
and let it rest on the ground, that should still
give me lots of space to get to the cab mnounts,
and eliminate the possibility of it shifting and
coming crashing down... And, I should point out
that that one block wasn"t angled the way it is in
the picture when I was under it, that happened
when I jacked up the cab corner... But, thanks
again.

And, how do you take out a gas tank?? A dumb
question I"m sure, but I don"t know. All that I
can see is this skid-plate type thing in front of
it, and I just kind of planned on dealing with it
later, like once the frame was in two pieces...

Thanks guys...

Unbolt the skid plate from under the gas tank and there's probably 2 straps that hold the gas tank up. This is where it's best to remove everything using wrenches or sockets(or an impact wrench) instead of using the torch. If you use a cheater bar and bust the bolts, it doesn't matter. Probably a clamp on the filler neck. Just take a good look and you'll see how it's held in place.

I know everybody else has said it,but before you do anything else you take the gas tank off,and you get it way,way away from there.I saw a guy cut a spring off of a car at a junk yard one day and when the gas tank exploded, the car went about 2 car lengths in the air flipped and landed on its top.Then the junk yard man wanted him to pay for the whole car he had just burned,which was a Camaro and worth a lot in parts.He was lucky that nobody got hurt and a 20 dollar spring ended up costing him a few hundred,instead of him getting killed.

The blocks will take more weight than the jack stands and less likely to shift if the openings are up instead of side ways and a plank laid on top. I haven't seen many three story high cement block buildings have the bottom blocks crumble from the weight. Side ways like in the picture is a bad deal though.

On commercial buildings, the blocks often have concrete and rebar in at least some of them to handle the weight. Stronger than jack stands? Skyscrapers use steel frame work, not cinder blocks. Jack stands also have a safe weight rating on them. I've never seen that on a cinder block. It wouldn't be hard to copy a jack stand and make your own.

Your Funny

Properties of Concrete Blocks — Strength
In the use of concrete blocks for the walls of buildings, the stress to which they are subjected is almost entirely one of compression. In compressive strength well-made concrete does not differ greatly from ordinary building stone. It is difficult to find reliable records of tests of sand and gravel concrete, 1 to 4 and 1 to 5, such as is used in making blocks; the following figures show strength of concrete of approximately this richness, also the average of several samples each of well-known building stones, as stated by the authorities named:

Limestone, Bedford, Ind.< (Indiana Geographical Survey).............7,792 pounds

Limestone, Marblehead, Ohio (Q. A. Gillmore) 7,393 pounds

Sandstone, N. Amherst, Ohio (Q. A. Gillmore) ..............5,831 pounds

Gravel concrete, 1:1.6:2.8, at 1 year (Candlot)............... 5,500 pounds

Gravel concrete, 1:1.6:3.7, at 1 year (Candlot)................5,050 pounds

Stone concrete, 1:2:4 at 1 year (Boston El. R. R.)..............3,904 pounds

Actual tests of compression strength of hollow concrete blocks are difficult to make, because it is almost impossible to apply the load uniformly over the whole surface, and also because a block 16 inches long and 8 inches wide will bear a load of 150,000 to 200,000 pounds, or more than the capacity of any but the largest testing machines. Three one-quarter blocks, 8 inches long, 8 inches wide, and 9 inches high, with hollow space equal to one-third of the surface, tested at the Case School of Science, showed strengths of 1,805, 2,000, and 1,530 pounds per square inch, respectively, when 10 weeks old.

Did I say to not take it out? I didn't say to go hitting it with a torch, either. The chances of it exploding are fairly slim unless it's near empty, though.

I suggest that you use most or all of the frame. The trailer is less likely to fishtail, will be easier to back up, and will not bounce the back of the towing vehicle up and down as much. If you look at the pickup you are starting with, the tires are ahead of center on the box which is asking for towing problems in the first place. The trailer I made out of an old Datsun has a short flatbed in front of the box which is often very handy. Please show us pictures of the completed project.

I will!! I made lots of progress on it last night, and Im uploading a video right now...

Yes, you certainly implied it! What exactly does "fairly slim" mean anyways? You might not get blown up but you could have a big fire? A couple month's ago someone posted about a guy getting killed cutting a combine up for scrap. He'd done it many times before and there was only a "fairly slim" chance something could go wrong. Using a torch anywhere in the vicinity of a gas tank is a "FAIRLY GOOD" way to get seriously injured, burned or killed. Telling Lanse otherwise is reckless and careless!!! Anyone else on this forum with common sense would tell you the same thing, Better safe than sorry!

Is this good enough for you?

Some construction projects call for a larger masonry block than a standard brick, but solid concrete blocks can be very expensive and very heavy. One common compromise are largely hollow masonry blocks known as cinder blocks. Cinder blocks are also sometimes referred to as concrete blocks, breeze blocks, or concrete masonry units (CMUs), though these terms have nuanced differences among them. Cinder blocks are generally lighter than solid concrete blocks, which makes them easier for brick masons to place in position. The hollow spaces in cinder blocks also provide some natural insulation or allow reinforced concrete to be poured inside the rows of masonry.

Cinder blocks differ from concrete blocks in other ways besides their hollow design. Concrete blocks are made from a slurry of Portland cement and small aggregate, such as small stones or gravel. Cinder blocks, on the other hand, are made from a combination of Portland cement and cinders, the dusty remnants of burned coal. The result is a lighter weight block formed into a rectangular masonry block. Although many people use the terms "cinder blocks" and "concrete blocks" interchangeably, a true cinder block will always be lighter than a concrete block, and the texture of cinder blocks may be rougher than finished concrete blocks.

When bricklayers work with cinder blocks, they generally use techniques similar to standard brick laying. The alternative rows of cinder blocks are carefully offset so that the second layer stabilizes the first. A line of mortar is put down between cinder blocks, so the actual dimensions of a standard cinder block may be adjusted slightly to accommodate the mortar. Corners may be finished out with half blocks, or interlaced to create a four-cornered structure.

Because cinder blocks do not have a significant amount of tensile strength, concrete is often poured vertically into the hollow chambers to provide more stability and strength. An iron rod called rebar is often placed vertically in the hollow chambers as well to reinforce the poured concrete. It is not unusual to see rows of cinder blocks with lengths of exposed rebar on construction sites.

Your still funny

45 years ago I was laying block for a living. Not looking for more edjmacation in block laying at 73 years old.

Where did I say "don't pull the tank"? Besides here? Did I say "go ahead and stick the torch to it"?

I don't see it, maybe I'm blind?

Sounds like I'm picking a fight with an expert welder who lives in a world where anything less than a DC welder will kill you and lower you're neighbors' property values.

So why aren't high rises built with cinder blocks? You originally claimed that cinder blocks were stronger than jack stands yet to add strength to a cinder block wall, steel and/or concrete are used. I don't see too many auto or heavy equipment shops using cinder blocks for supports, even when they have them turned the right way. For blocking real heavy objects, wood is used. Cinder blocks are good for making walls not holding up vehicles and equipment. That's what jack stands are made for.

The fact that you DIDN'T say to pull the gas tank and asked about how much gas was in it speaks volumes. On top of that you mention "fairly slim" chance of explosion. Anyone that can understand english would take that to mean the gas tank could be left on. If the tank is safely removed and put far away from the truck, who cares how much gas is/was in it? Unless you have some kind of hand held water jet, every cutting torch I've ever seen can throw sparks 10 ft. or more in any direction, especially when you're working in less than ideal conditions. One spark is all it takes to cause a preventable tradegy. Instead of picking a fight with me over the fact that a gas tank blowing up can kill you, did you happen to read any other responses that also said the FIRST thing to do is REMOVE the gas tank?

I've debated with people and had some friendly and not so friendly arguments but in this case, you are blind as you seem unable to comprehend the seriousness of leaving a gas tank on vehicle that's being cut up with a oxy/acetylene torch by an ambitious 17 year old with a good future ahead of him. That is reckless and careless despite all your excuses and arguing! Ask anyone else on the forum if you don't believe me. WOW, can't believe someone would argue over another poster having a chance of getting blown up. A "fairly slim" chance but still a chance.

Whatever, Dave.

I said that if it's fuller, chances are it won't blow up. I never said or meant to imply to not remove it.

Ever seen mythbusters?

dave's motto if you can not dazzle em -w- brilliance baffle em -w- B.S.
dave posts under many different names so that he does not feel so left out and lonely.
come on dave really you would do well to polish up on your resume instead of hounding every body here.
by the way what are we on this year job number wise #5 #6

Lots of good advice, some picky sniping at others- amusing. Back a couple days I thought I posted about chocking/blocking back wheels and using double sets of jack stands or other supports on front-oh well, others have noted support suggestions. One thing some of them have noted -GET THAT GAS TANK OFF BEFORE TORCHING- is good advice. Do you have some 5 gallon buckets for the oil, coolant- or if need be the gasoline? Looks fairly good so far, a fire extinguisher as noted sometimes is very usefull. RN

Because wood blocks can be tossed in the corner with the coffee cans without shattering?