cold weather and diesel fuel??

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Hey folks,
10 degrees and windy today and I made it thru without an electric suit :roll:

Anyway, tractor started right up and was fine but I noticed it surging(??) a little when I was climbing a few hundred yard incline on the road... Maybe 15 mph and 1900 rpm and you could tell a slight surge like a governor working but barely noticeable. I get fuel straight from the gas station so have winter diesel in it. Book says that the best operating temp is 195 degrees but after an hour or so it never went above 140 or so. Just ordered a thermostat, but is running it at the cooler temps gonna hurt anything? No telling how long it has been running cold. Think the higher (recommended) operating temp will make it run any smoother?

Thanks, Dave
 
Shove a piece of cardboard in front of 1/2 of the radiator. After the tractor has been running for a while, the heat from the return injector lines will warm the fuel up some and help the gelling disappear. If it's still running cold, cover a little more of the radiator.
 
(quoted from post at 13:17:17 02/02/12)Think the higher (recommended) operating temp will make it run any smoother?Thanks, Dave

Higher operating temp. will make the fuel burn cleaner but I think will not affect surging problem. Surging is caused by faulty inj pump governor or low flow of fuel.
 
Diesel depends on combustion heat to ignite fuel. Run a rag,
piece of cardboard something to get the heat up. You are
washing cylinders with unburned fuel running her cold. You
could have a weak or dirty injector not handling the combo of
cold air and cold fuel, see what happens when you get it to
operating temps.
 
(quoted from post at 11:45:30 02/02/12)
(quoted from post at 13:17:17 02/02/12)Think the higher (recommended) operating temp will make it run any smoother?Thanks, Dave

Higher operating temp. will make the fuel burn cleaner but I think will not affect surging problem.

Not even surging is the way to describe it and it was only for a couple minutes... Made 2 more trips the same was, same speed, and rpm's and it didn't happen... Guess that's why I thought of the temperature....
 
you know it could be filters starting to contaminate. doesn't make any difference how long ago they were changed you could of got some water
 
Usually, the problem with cold fuel is more in the supply lines, where the fuel will gell or flake, plugging the filters and fuel pumps, and injector pumps. Warmer engine temps probably won"t change much, unless the warmer engine warms the fuel in the fuel tank.

As far as the engine, it was designed to operate at a given temperature, usually in the 180-190 degree range. And will operate most efficiently at that temperature. A new thermostat may help, but I have had engines that never got up to proper operating temperatures in cold weather, even with good thermostats.
 
(quoted from post at 14:45:50 02/02/12) I have had engines that never got up to proper operating temperatures in cold weather, even with good thermostats.

That's why over the road 18 wheelers have adjustable curtains to cover the radiator grill.
 
Well, I gave up on diesel engines, but the house still runs on oil. I am the sad owner of 1000 gallons of crud. Not only am I messed up with their crap getting my filters- element, pump screen and nozzle- but I made myself a new problem. The underground tank stays fairly warm, but the tanks in the garage I pour into the ground one... are cold... very cold. Closed up building in winter is worst than outside huh? I get online and find home heating oil (and diesel?) doesn't burn properly less than 35 degrees F. Well, we are getting up to that point lately, but the last batch I ran into the underground must have been zero. So in goes gallons of diesel fuel conditioner. Which I'm sure won't hurt what is up with your tractor. But this stuff is getting to be a real drag. The tractors are all gas, and as soon as the house is gas- or anything besides fuel oil... the better..... but hey, in the summer, when you don't need it, fuel oil burns great! Diesels run great.... just head south for 4 or 5 months....
I don't know what they call it in Germany, but try a few gallons of 'kerosene? parafin? Lamp oil?' Anything a grade lighter.... good luck!!
 
(quoted from post at 13:29:12 02/02/12) Well, I gave up on diesel engines, but the house still runs on oil. I am the sad owner of 1000 gallons of crud. Not only am I messed up with their crap getting my filters- element, pump screen and nozzle- but I made myself a new problem. The underground tank stays fairly warm, but the tanks in the garage I pour into the ground one... are cold... very cold. Closed up building in winter is worst than outside huh? I get online and find home heating oil (and diesel?) doesn't burn properly less than 35 degrees F. Well, we are getting up to that point lately, but the last batch I ran into the underground must have been zero. So in goes gallons of diesel fuel conditioner. Which I'm sure won't hurt what is up with your tractor. But this stuff is getting to be a real drag. The tractors are all gas, and as soon as the house is gas- or anything besides fuel oil... the better..... but hey, in the summer, when you don't need it, fuel oil burns great! Diesels run great.... just head south for 4 or 5 months....

supposed to be back up above freezing in a week so I should be OK....
I don't know what they call it in Germany, but try a few gallons of 'kerosene? parafin? Lamp oil?' Anything a grade lighter.... good luck!!
 
the proper way to cover the rad when your putting cardboard right next to it is to have a round hole cut in the centre, say 8-10" diameter. plus depends on rad size. then you cover the whole rad. this is so the fan pulls air smoothly and does not create a wobble and hard on brgs.
and not much chance of fuel gelling at 10 degrees.
 
I clean lots in the winter and always cover at least the bottom half of the radiator so she will run at temp, also I run dsl fuel conditioner year around due to this dry fuel they sell now and also check the water traps often to remove any condinsation
 
(quoted from post at 13:50:25 02/02/12) the proper way to cover the rad when your putting cardboard right next to it is to have a round hole cut in the centre, say 8-10" diameter. plus depends on rad size. then you cover the whole rad. this is so the fan pulls air smoothly and does not create a wobble and hard on brgs.
and not much chance of fuel gelling at 10 degrees.

Thanks... Have my license plate mounted on the grill itself but will take it off and cover the radiator tomorrow. See what that does to the operating temp. I guess if the fuel was a problem, the wife's car wouldn't be running either since I filled my cans when we filled her car.....
 
I would start with fuel filters first.At work when a
truck starts to jell. The first thing is fuel
filters and some 911 power service. At 30* below
the engine should run fine after 10 minutes. Just
not heat up very good. 140*degrees I would not worry
about at all. Thats hot to the touch. I still would
throw some kind of anti jell in it. A lot of places
say they have winter blend. But not all winter
blends are the same. Good Luck!!!
 
(quoted from post at 15:50:25 02/02/12) the proper way to cover the rad when your putting cardboard right next to it is to have a round hole cut in the centre, say 8-10" diameter. plus depends on rad size. then you cover the whole rad. this is so the fan pulls air smoothly and does not create a wobble and hard on brgs.

I guess someone failed to explained your theory to the drivers with radiator curtains I've seen on 18 wheelers but that was back in the 80's.
 
Cover the side of your motor also.It will hold the engine heat around your filters & blow the warm air back under your fuel tank if it is mounted up behind your engine.
 
Read his post again, very carefully and you will see he is talking about cardboard right on radiator. Big difference from hanging curtain in front of grille.
 

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