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Painting

B

Bill in IL

Well-known Member
Have a farmall 400 that is going to get a coat of paint.

I am wondering what are the benefits to spending the dollars on automotive paint vs enamel off the store shelf. Never been much of a painter so the automotive stuff with clear coat I am sort a little leary of. What about the paint that is sold at the is site?

Will a gallon be enough to cover the entire tractor?

How do you remove and reistall the emblems on a 400?
 
In paint, as in everything else, you get the results in proportion to what you're willing to pay for the paint.

If it was me, I'd use automotive acrylic enamel on all of it, and then shoot a coat of clearcoat on the sheet metal. In fact, if any of the sheet metal has two colors, you can wait until both colors are on and then shoot the clear over it all.

Just my 2 cents.
 
Equipment enamel from TSC,hardware store,etc. will turn pink in a couple years or so and start to flake.BTDT.Spend a little more money and buy the better quality paint.
 
(quoted from post at 06:33:10 06/18/12) Have a farmall 400 that is going to get a coat of paint.

I am wondering what are the benefits to spending the dollars on automotive paint vs enamel off the store shelf. Never been much of a painter so the automotive stuff with clear coat I am sort a little leary of. What about the paint that is sold at the is site?

Will a gallon be enough to cover the entire tractor?

How do you remove and reistall the emblems on a 400?
Click to expand...

Get the IH 2150 from your local Case-IH dealer. It will cost only slightly more than from the farm store, and is much better paint and will be the correct color. The use of hardener REQUIRES an approved breathing apparatus. Also, the hardener is NOT necessary. A scratch in the paint applied without hardener CAN be buffed out or otherwise repaired without doing a complete repaint. NOT SO if the hardener was used.

The 2150 applied without hardener will still have a MUCH higher gloss that what that 400 originally had.
 
A lot of the tractors (working tractors) at oldtimer shows around here are painted with paint from the dealer and brushed on right out of the can. Paint flows/evens itself out very presentable and is tuff. It's called Kunstharzlack .. Direct translation is resin paint, but maybe Ralph Bauer or Hendrik can chime in and say what the comparison is.....
 
I am glad this topic came up. I have been thinking about doing a "quick and dirty" paint job on my 706.

Clean it up best I can with a pressure washer and paint.

Can a person, using the good paint, get by without priming it?

I was just wanting to wash, scuff the hood and fenders (removing the hood and panels) and spray it. Will that work?

Just wanting to pretty it up a little, not show it.

Gene
 
(quoted from post at 07:47:19 06/18/12) I am glad this topic came up. I have been thinking about doing a "quick and dirty" paint job on my 706.

Clean it up best I can with a pressure washer and paint.

Can a person, using the good paint, get by without priming it?

I was just wanting to wash, scuff the hood and fenders (removing the hood and panels) and spray it. Will that work?

Just wanting to pretty it up a little, not show it.

Gene
Click to expand...

Neighbor kid did one a little bigger than but the same pretty colors as a 706 that way... Oven cleaner, pressure washer, course stelwool on the panels, and sprayed. Looked pretty decent. Did this little green thing the same way in an evening...

8488.jpg
 
For IH we have had good luck with the 2150 and a hardener...that"s whats on this Super H. We occasionally use auto paint but have found that most places have a "plain label" paint that they sell: same as the top of the line "Dupont" and other big names but less costly. Works well too!
a73776.jpg
 
If you want to paint a work tractor, use the cheap implement paint from a farm store and use a hardner. If you use a tractor, you are going to chip and dent it.
On the other hand, if you have a pant load of money, want to store your tractor in a barn, cover it up with a blanket, and use it for a parade, spend the big bucks.

I use the cheap paint and give it a new coat of lipstick when it looks bad. Old tractors leak oil too, so why use the expensive stuff?
 
(quoted from post at 08:33:42 06/18/12) Old tractors leak oil too
Click to expand...

That's just cause the folks that own them ain't married to the ole bat I got and parken them on her cobblestone driveway :roll:
 
What do you mean by breathing aparatus. Face mask with organic filters or full up supplied breathing air?
 
If its a working tractor the store shelf enamal will be fine. In my opinion it takes a lot more prep work for base coat clear coat. If i was gonna base clear it, hell id go over the whole thing get all dings and dangs out and go over it with icing filler. my dad painted an M 20 years ago and it still looks better than most tractors you see and it was the cheap stuff. Remember one thing,your paint job is only as good as whats under the paint! I personally dont care for the over the top paint jobs on tractors. But then again,I actually use them. Just my 2cents worth of body shop work.
 
I have used I H 2150 For several yrs . It is a very easy to use paint that goes on easy and lasts a long time. A customer did want to spend the extra $$ for hardner. That paint job has held up good, but the tractor is kept in a shed. I do prefer to use hardner. I think it is a good match to the orignal red.
 
Ok so looks like 2150 from the dealer is the stuff.

What about primer?

Tractor is pretty rusty but straight enough for my liking. It will get sanded primed and painted. What grit should I sand to before priming?
 
I would use 320 for lightly rusted sheet metal maybe even 220 on a tractor. There are rust neutralizing primers on the market now but I haven't tried them yet.
 
That sounds like it's your problem having an Ole bat. I park all my tractors in a barn or garage...never outside. I think it's a sin to have my toys get rained on. Don't wash them with high pressure...water can get in the tranny and hydraulics too easily that way.

Always wondered what does :roll: mean?
 
When I have very rusty metal, I use rustolium for heavy rust. Buy it at Menards. 220 should be fine enough.

Years ago I got rid of all my air tools, sanders, impacts and went to electric. You can buy a good variable speed electric sander that uses velcro to hold the sanding disk. Use sanding disk on sheet metal and a wire brush drill or right angle grinder on frame.
 
Agree on the 220 for final sand if you use impliment paint. I've found wet sanding to be very good at bringing the surface to a nice smooth finish with enough "grit" to give the paint something to stick to.
 
I think you would be better off to check with your local body/paint shop. They will know how much paint it will take. I don't think a quart will do. It will probably take 6 quarts and at least one gallon of primer if you need more you can always get it. You will also need thinner and hardener. A man in Ohio sandblast's
the tractors after pressure washing it. Here's a Fairway 12 he did. Have the body shop to paint it and they have the supplied air system. You don't want to breathe that stuff. Hal
a73797.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 11:34:44 06/18/12) That sounds like it's your problem having an Ole bat. I park all my tractors in a barn or garage...never outside. I think it's a sin to have my toys get rained on. Don't wash them with high pressure...water can get in the tranny and hydraulics too easily that way.

Always wondered what does :roll: mean?
Click to expand...

If my stuff leaks, it gets fixed ASAP... Sometimes before I even realize it.....
If I try to milk a little leak along with cardboard or something, she'll run across the neighbor kid or his dad and squeal on me... Then he picks it up while I'm at work and fixes it.....

Click on modern view if ya wanna see what roll means.....
 
So it's the yellow face rolling it's eyes? What do you type to get the yellow face to stick out it's tongue?
 
You are right, the better the paint, the more you have to sand. The better the paint, the shinner and all your sanding sins and flaws will show up more...that's why I like the cheaper paints.
 
(quoted from post at 13:12:28 06/18/12) So it's the yellow face rolling it's eyes? What do you type to get the yellow face to stick out it's tongue?
Click to expand...

:p :p

Also,
If you take a tractor for inspection and it's dripping oil, you won't pass and renew the plates..... A seap or one that drops a drop every day or so ain't so bad, but a leak will have the hazmat cops on ya.....
 
Getting some strange info laid down here.
To remove 70 years of accumulated paints, rust, spills, birds. from the sheet metal you need to use a 6 inch DA air sander. Buy two 5 packs of Norton 80 grit 6 inch peel and stick disks.
When they are gone prime the pieces with 2 part epoxy primer.
Then fill and sand body filler with 120 grit.
Block and prime with surfacer sanding that with 220 dry paper, until final application use you rubber block and wet sand with 320 wet or dry.
 
When I was a kid, a loooong time ago. I worked for a place that sold car paint. I remember it taking 2 gallons to repaint a car. So a Farmall 400 would be at least a gallon or more.
 
What in the heck are you talking about? Plates and inspection for a tractor!! You got to be kidding? Is this just another form of taxes?
 
(quoted from post at 13:50:15 06/18/12) What in the heck are you talking about? Plates and inspection for a tractor!! You got to be kidding? Is this just another form of taxes?
Click to expand...
If it goes on a public road here, it gets inspected, plates, and insurance (lights, mirrors,etc) 50cc or less motorcycles, scooters, quads, mopeds, motorized wheelchairs, and a couple other things can pay a yearly fee for a plate that also covers liability insurance...
Farmers can put on green number plates and don't pay the road tax, and get a little of fuel cost back at tax time...
 
yup gene, you can do that. use the dealer implement paint from case i-h. the modifyed alkyd enamel is pretty forgiving. toss the hardner in there too. way back in the olden days when dulux was the popular enamel auto paint, you could scrub a car with comet cleaner, rinse it, tack it and shoot it. the abrasives in the comet cleanser was enough to roughen up the surface to get a good adhesion.
 
you will need close to 2 gallons to shoot a 400. i use a gallon and a half on a farmall m. crossfire urethane. the emblems are held in with barrel clips. there is a small metal tube that goes in the hole and has locking tabs to hold it in. then the pin on the emblem slides inside the tube and small tabs lock on the pin. small screw drivers and dental picks can release the clip. most times it is easier to peel the barrel clip open and replace them so you dont break the stem off the emblem.
 
Here is part of my super m with IH 2150 and hardner. I think I'm going to have almost 2 gallons on it if it ever gets finished.
c51137.jpg
 

I'm still sticking to my view that if your going to give it a four hour prep, don't waste your money on urethane or similar paint. If you are going to give it 40 hour prep don't waste your time with cheap paint after all that work. you need one quart to cover after the 4 hour prep and one gallon to cover all the parts inside and out, top and bottom if you do the 40 hour prep.
 
Where do I get those barrel clips to put them back on?

Crossfire urethane.... I need paint that is forgiving. Your opinion am i better off with urethane or enamel?
 
Your local auto parts store should have push on clips that will work.

I'm with showcrop on the paint.
If you're painting a show tractor, that's another story, but if you just want to make it look decent go with the off the shelf enamel.
It's a one step process, you paint it and you're done.
Heck, you can brush it on if you want to it will still look better and help prevent rust. My hand isn't steady enough to brush paint!

The base coat/clear coat stuff I paint cars with is no where near as neat and forgiving. Go look at your brand new car/truck in the sun, the paint texture from the factory will look like an orange peel.

If you have bare metal, prime it. If you have loose paint, take it off and then prime it. If you paint over it the old paint will continue to peel and take the new paint with it.

Wish I could still buy laquer paint and do all that wonderful wet sanding.
 
have you ever seen a farmall that looks almost pink from fading out in the sun? thats what the cheap paint can do.Go for a better quality paint you wont regret it. Bill
 
bill, you can get the barrel clips from steiners or oem tractor supply, or if you have a local body shop, they may stock them. if the shop does any old car restorations, they will have em. napa can also get them too. if its your first attempt at spraying, go with the dealer paint from case-ih. its a lot easier to work with, no where near as toxic or costly. if you go with an automotive urethane, you can easily get a material bill of 500 to 600 dollars.
 
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