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Rough Building Engineering Question

I

in-too-deep

Well-known Member
Gonna build a shop someday...

Probably 36 x 54 and 14 maybe 16 tall.

Stud wall, steel roof. Don't wanna build pole style cause im gonna stud the inside anyway.

West central MN snow load. 4/12 pitch. How far apart can i put rafters and still lay purlins flat?

What stud spacing and size? 2x6 at 16 o.c.? 2x8 at 24 o.c.?

Not gonna go and build it without professional design. Just curious about some rough basics. Thanks!
 
Call your local lumber yard where you will be buying materials from. They will do all the engineering for your location. Code enforcement will accept their design and all will be well. The size and type of fasteners, (nails, screws, clips, etc) are all crucial.
Forget the Blue or Orange big boxes.
 
14 foot stud wall may not meet wind loading code. thats a lot of wind force on the side walls.

ploe building would be my choice
 
Yep, I plan on doing that when the time comes. Just trying to put together some preliminary estimates.
 
I would think that 2x6 16 o.c. would be good, but the advantage of a pole building is that you dont need a foundation. Also I think that 4' is about as far as you want to go with the trusses with flat purlins. I did know a builder that claimed he could put up a stud wall shed for about the same money as a pole building but dont know if your carpenter would agree with that.
 
When I built my 60 x 40 shop I went to a REAL lumber yard (NOT Home Depot or Lowes etc) and they plugged everything into a computer program and it (local codes were programmed in) spit out all the necessary sizes and dimensions and stud and purlin placements etc AT NO CHARGE TO ME with an itemized list of materials and cost...

John T
 
Depends on the length of the building and size of the doors, and you have to use a sheathing panel with special details.
 
I've built two buildings here in central NY with standard 40' trusses. I placed them 4' apart, and used 2x4 purlins flat on 2' centers.
My tallest side wall is 2"x6"x14'. I doubled up the 2x6's and placed them every four feet(right under each truss).
Both have masonry foundations. One has 14' clearance, one has 15'(enough so that a 14' overhead door works)
 
I did mine on 16" center to give more support to the OSB. You can save on trusses and put them on 7'6". I tripled up the studs under the trusses.

The purlins are 2x4 on edge. I would use hangers on them next time and put them between the trusses.
 
Someday when I can afford a new shed it will be a pole type with poles and trusses 6ft on center. I'll run the wall purlins in between the poles so a 2x6 purlin will be flush inside and out with the pole to make it easier to sheet both sides
 
The supplier will build the trusses to withstand the load at the spacing you request, but going 24" oc you could use a more generic truss. I sheeted the whole roof with OSB on our cabin, 24" oc trusses, then tar paper and then steel, worked well, and not very expensive.
 
Here's something to think about. You say that you are going to stud the inside so you don't want a pole building. Are you going to finish the inside with sheetrock etc? If you are I would definately put trusses at 2' oc. and sheath the roof. Every and I mean every steel building with purlins will sweat and rain inside. If you sheet it and then felt under the metal you will stay dry. Just a thought.


Steven
 
I would really put a 8/12 roof or steeper if you are in Minnesota. A 12/12 would be best. That snow can be super heavy.
 
Gonna start with trusses at 24". The rest I will get figured out when the time comes. Thank you folks!
 
Well, when I built my 30 by 60 shop, I put it up as a pole building and put pea gravel on the floor. Then I came back and poured the floor. Then later I laid 2 courses of 6 inch block between the posts except where the doors were going. Put a plate on the block and studded the walls up. Put siding on the outside and insulated, then put OSB on the inside and painted white. VERY STOUT building. Richard in NW SC
 
Good advice. I plan on putting an insulated ceiling in. Will that keep the inside of the roof dry? If I vent it enough?
 
(quoted from post at 07:08:37 07/03/12) Good advice. I plan on putting an insulated ceiling in. Will that keep the inside of the roof dry? If I vent it enough?
Click to expand...
Insulation and venting will take care of roof moisture.
Richard
 
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