farm truck problem continued

Anonymous-0 · Aug 26, 2012

My 95 chevy K1500 with 350 is still running rough once warm. New plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel and air filter along with colant temp sensor. It only acts up once its warm it runs fine cold. Im really lost, any other ideas?

Sprint 6 · Aug 26, 2012

I'd bet your exhaust system has lost its ground. The oxygen sensor won't work right if the exhaust does not have a good ground. Run a jumper cable from O2 sensor housing to the battery ground and see if it runs better.

Wisconsin Cowman · Aug 26, 2012

Did you check for codes?

Morgan Flowers · Aug 26, 2012

Have you checked the compression? Just an idea.

504 · Aug 26, 2012

TBI or Direct injection?

Bryan inIowa · Aug 26, 2012

any codes ? Check fuel pressure ,,possible EGR leaking or getting vacuum when it shouldn't .

DH in Carolina · Aug 26, 2012

If you have a ground wire at the thermostat housing bolts make sure it is making a good connection. Had a crroded bolt on a 90 that caused all kinds of problems.

Jim in Ma. · Aug 26, 2012

Codes? another problem could be a worn timing chain or gear. Most often it's the teeth on the cam gear that are bad.

Dave in GA · Aug 26, 2012

I would suspect a malfunctioning EGR valve or O2 sensor.

Anonymous-0 · Aug 26, 2012

Make sure the catalytic converter/muffler have good outflow. Just something else to check. A pack rat built a nest in the air intake of my 94GMC 350, made it run lean, got the converter so hot it melted the matrix inside and plugged up converter and fried the oxygen sensor. Very similar thing on a mid 80's Toyota car I had, but never knew why that one fused the converter. Service guy knew immediately what it was, so I guess it was happening to others. Similar symptoms, at first you could start and run but after a few miles the back pressure would dog down the engine.

WGM · Aug 26, 2012

Take it to a professional if you want it done right.

Phil in Pa · Aug 26, 2012

Yeah, auto repair shops being so cheap and trustworthy and all.

Anonymous-0 · Aug 26, 2012

Next time it starts acting up, hook a vacuum guage, to it, or take a can of starter fluid to any suspect vacuum hoses. If the motor speeds up, when you spray a vac hose, it means that hose is leaking vacuum.

charlie n · Aug 26, 2012

I had the same problem with a 99 5.7 Vortec.I did everything that the others mentioned with no success.Even change the fuel pump TWICE and still had the problem.Finally a good friend figured it was air flow trouble and replaced this.Don't criticize me cause I'm not up on the censers.The computer never thru a code and was diagnosed by process of elimination.Good Luck.

Brad Buchanan · Aug 26, 2012

some of the earlier gm electronic distribtors would flub up when hot and the problem was there is an electronic module with four terminals that would overheat if replaced and not bedded in dialectric grease.

Brad

Thomas(AB) · Aug 26, 2012

that i believe is a mass air flow sensor, mine gets replaced every 3 years, caused alot of grief when it first quit working. never did throw a code for it.

barnE · Aug 26, 2012

Oxy sensor could fail like some I have seen and give too rich mixture. Cold engine too rich would be OK. But after warming up it would be like the choke still on and flood. Look at exhause for lots of black smoke and carbon. Hope this is your situation. Dave

Anonymous-0 · Aug 26, 2012

Ok thanks for all the ideas. Its a TBI motor. There is no mass air flow sensor on it. Its currently throwing no codes. I changed the oxygen sensor tonight. There is no catalytic converter on it any more and a glass pack muffler so exhaust flow shouldnt be a problem. No smoke in the exhaust either. So Im thinking vaccum leak or distributor/ spark maybe? I did also change the coil. Thanks for the replies. Any more ideas now?

James Williams · Aug 26, 2012

Unplug your EGR valve and see if it makes a difference

jimmy

toadady · Aug 26, 2012

i work in a parts store, and i have seen MANY of these distrubitors wear in the housing making the shaft wobble, causing lots of problems, pull it out and see it should have little to NO slack in the shaft, a little up and down is normal

CenTex Farmall · Aug 26, 2012

Has the fuel pump in the tank ever been replaced?

One of the big box stores should have a "loner" fuel pressure test setup you can borrow.

gbs · Aug 26, 2012

check the egr valve it could be stuck,check the tbi gasket they will crack and shrink,check vacuum lines for leaks

Anonymous-0 · Aug 26, 2012

Had a similar problem with a 92 F-150. Drove me crazy, made an appointment with the dealer, couldn't get it in for a week so I gave it one last shot. Started checking voltages at sensors when hot and they were above 15 volts. Battery had a weak cell when hot, good enough to start the truck but opened up with alternator charging. Replaced the battery and everything was fine, canceled the dealer appointment.

Briar Hill Brittanys · Aug 26, 2012

Had the same problem with mine, 95 K1500 TBI 350. Started and ran great when cold. Once it warmed up, coughed, sputtered, died at stoplights, inhaled fuel, hard starting when warm. After awhile it finally kicked a code for a bad coolant temp sensor. Replaced, and the problem went away for a week or so. Tracked back to the coolant temp sensor. Ended up being the wire running to the sensor had a bad spot in it. Replaced the damaged section, is running fine again. Old Blue has 240,000 one owner miles. HTH Mark

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