750 JD No Till drill Opinions needed.

Stubie

New User
Hi Folks

I'm looking at buying a John deer 750 no-till drill but I'm not sure I could pull this drill. I own a MFD Newholland TS115A recent model. There is some clay, no hills and a few wet spots. I worry that I could be underpowered. It shure would be nice to hear from a fellas who are pulling these drills with 95-100hp PTO.

Thanks
Stubie
 
Stubie, I have a 750 drill and have run it for several years. I've pulled it with a '64 4020, a '71 4020 with cab and a 4440. All pulled the drill just fine. Obviously, the 4440 pulls it the best and the two-speed is handy on the ends. As important as horsepower is weight. This drill is very heavy. It will weigh somewhere in the neighborhood of 13,000 lbs. full. You want a tractor with at least that much weight pulling it. Otherwise, when you turn at the bottom of a hill the drill could scoot you around. The early 4020 was a little light for the drill, the late 4020 was adequate and the 4440 is better. Hope this helps. Mike
 
Neighbor who trades often got one with the front two point hitch instead of the dolly wheels last time. I wouldn't have it any other way. Then you've the weight on the tractor wheels. But you're sure going to need the front weighted down.
 
What width are you looking at 10' or 15'? Lower 3 point hookup with no dolly wheels is best if you have the tractor to handle it. I pull a 15' with my Ford 8210 4x4 cab tractor and sometimes on hills I have to kick the 4x4 in as it starts pawing. If I added some wheel weights I could probably do fine in 2wd though. I don't think a TS is going to have the grunt that my 82 does, but it should pull it, just at a higher RPM
 
I did it 20+yrs.with a 15,000# 80HP Deere 4030 running 5MPH with no sweat.(500A)Now those front crazy wheels will stop a 30,000# 4 wheel drive IF they hit a soft place and quit turning.For a few yrs.Deere put a traction tread on those wheels and didn't have much trouble,but the smooth tread tires will ball up at the least soft spot.These were all lease machines,so had to accept the crazy wheels,but since 2005 and now owning don't have the stupid wheels.
 
My first experience with a 10ft 750 with the dolly wheels was not very good.I hooked it to the 3020 and after two rounds knew that was not enough tractor.Switched to the 4020 and got along great.I could see how turning at the bottom of a steep hill that the drill could push you around some.Last year we used the newer no-till drill(replacement for 750) it had the two point hitch and no dolly wheels and the 4020 did great.Also used a 750 15ft with two point on the 4620 and worked fine.
 
On flat dry ground I pulled 2 15 ft. 750 drills with
a 4640. In 1993 a very wet spring we pulled 1 with a
4850 mfd and 1 behind an 8960 4wd In 1995 we put 2
750 drills behind a 8770 4wd and used them 10 years
was never short on power but if you get to a muddy
spot you could still be stuck.
 
We would pull a 15-footer with a dualed 4020, fluid weight on the inside rear wheels (18.4-34). It would handle it pretty well even in mud, as I remember cleaning mud out of the gauge wheels more than worrying about traction! Our late 3020 with fluid filled 16.9-34 singles would barely do it on level dry stubble (non-worked ground).
 
Although most of the time we pulled our 15 footer with
dolley wheels with a White 2-130 two wheel drive. It would
just idle along nice and easy with it no problem. I also pulled
it some with a Case 5230 MFWA with no problems. I believe
it was about 95hp. One word of caution, the bearings on the
closing wheels will not last, no matter what. You will change
2 to 4 sets in a day easy. I ended up with 4 extra complete
closing wheels so I could just change the whole wheel. I
upgraded to a 1560 and really love it. Went through drilling
all my wheat and never changed a single one. They are
made different.
 
15K 4030, that would be a dog! You could order those drills with ribbed implement tires or flotation tires, it was an option. The small implement tires are what you speak of not having tread.
 

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