generators not charging enough

So, I got a Farmall H & an Allis G.Both charge
just a few amps,when running above 1/2 throdle.Both have regulators.How do i get more charge? Thanks!!
 
Well first off you need to know the volts. Amps are fine but if the voltage is as it should be then the maps could also be correct. So you need to check how many volts you have when not running and then when running. Going to guess they are both 6 volt systems so when not running you should read around 6.2 volts or so and when running around 7 volts give or take a little bit
 
FIRST you need an accurate Voltmeter to see where you are at! "6 Volt" systems typically charge the battery at about 7.4 Volts.

If you find that the charging voltage IS too low and WANT to dabble in the black art of tweaking a voltage regulator, the short version is that the spring tension on the movable contact on the relay wound with the smallest-gauge wire needs to be SLIGHTLY increased.

Proceed at your own risk with this as it is easy to let all of the smoke out of the charging system, and thereafter it will no longer work at all!

Disconnect the battery when removing the cover from the regulator and while re-installing it as it is EASY to slip and create a short while doing this!
 
(quoted from post at 10:20:04 03/21/13) So, I got a Farmall H & an Allis G.Both charge
just a few amps,when running above 1/2 throdle.Both have regulators.How do i get more charge? Thanks!!

What Bob said. Just crank open the regulator a bit.
 
I figured I was a better mechanic than electrician so I changed the pullys to speed up the gen. it worked on an old H.
 
If you perform Para 5 of my Troubleshooting Procedure, it shows how to dead ground the Gennys Field which by passes the Voltage Regulators charge control function and puts the genny in her max capable high charge so you can see how well she charges then. If the charge is vastly improved with the gennys Field dead grounded yet she never charges that much otherwise DEPSITE THE BATTERY ISNT FULL CHARGED, the problem may be a bad VR, or the VR requires adjustment, or the VR isn't well grounded or if its a LHDB and cutout relay system (NOT a VR) the switch may be not well grounded.

So try my Para 5 FLD grounding procedure and if she still dont charge well the genny may have worn brushes or a dirty/oiled/carboned commutator or other problems because with the Field dead grounded the VR function is by passed and she ought to charge at max HOWEVER once the battery is charged the charge rate is supposed to slow down remember or else you may overcharge the battery i.e. maybe its okay???? Place a voltmeter on the battery and setting not running a 6 volt battery should read 6.3 volts but when running at fast RPM a good charging system (if working) should take it to 6.5 to 7+ Double that for a 12 volt......

Heres my Non Charging Troubleshooting Procedure for Class A Charging Systems. In Para 5 it tells how to effectively by pass the Voltage Regulator functions to see if failure to charge is the fault of the genny versus the Voltage Regulator. It also has a Motor Test to test the genny.

If you havent polarized, you may wanna do that just to make sure!!!!!! Temporarily ground the Gens Field post to case then momentarily flash jump a wire from the VR"s BAT terminal over to its ARM (or GEN) terminal (or direct to ARM post on Gen) and you ought to get a spark. Always try the simple fixes first!!!!


1) For a good working Gen to get to and charge the battery, it has to have a path usually from the Gens ARM post output,,,,,,,,,,,To and through the cutout relay portion of the VR (between its ARM and BAT terminals),,,,,,,,,Up to the Load (NOT to battery) side of the Ammeter (if it has one),,,,,,,,,To and through the ammeter (if it has one),,,,,,,,,,From BAT side of ammeter to ungrounded battery post, often via the starter lug post. Is yours wired that way or equivalent ??? The ammeter (if it has one) should read hot battery voltage on BOTH terminals, does yours??? Even if an ammeter were stuck (but still continuous) as RPM increases the battery voltage should rise from 12.6 to near 14 volts (half that for 6 volt) and/or the lights glow brighter. Have you tried that in case the ammeter isnt working right???????

2) If the above is so, the BAT terminal on the VR MUST ALWAYS READ HOT BATTERY VOLTAGE. Does yours??? If not, the Gen cant get to and charge the battery.

3) The Gen to VR wiring is as follows:

BAT on VR to ammeters load (NOT battery) side

ARM (or GEN) on VR to Gens Armature post.

FLD on VR to Gens Field post.

(L) Load (if you have a 4 wire VR) up to BAT supply input terminal on switch to feed loads like lights and ingition.

4. THE GEN AND VR MUST BE WELL GROUNDED AND THE BELT GOOD N TIGHT. If any doubt, run a ground wire from the grounded battery post or clean solid frame member direct to the Gen and VR and see what happens?????????????????????????

NOW, if the Gen and VR are grounded,,,,,all is wired correct,,,,,,,,BAT terminal on VR is HOT,,,,,,,,Belt is tight,,,,,,,,,ammeter is good n continuous n works but she wont charge, have you had the batteries tested lately????? Is there electrolyte above all the plates and no cells have a gray or milky appearance?????? A bad battery may not accept a charge you know!!!!!!!! If she dont, proceed below to see if its a Gen or VR problem (AFTER you have insured the wiring per the above)

TO DETERMINE IF ITS A GEN OR VR PROBLEM

5. With the tractor running, temporarily ground the Gens Field post to case. If she charges then, the VR may be bad, or a wires missing from VR"s Field post to the Field terminal on the VR, or the VR isnt well grounded.

6. If she still dont charge, leave Field grounded and jump a wire across from the VR"s BAT and ARM terminals (jump by passes the cutout relay) and see if she charges. If then but not otherwise, the VR"s cutout relay isnt working correct (maybe points burned/carboned/resistive)

7. With the 2 steps above, you have basically by passed the VR functions, so if she still dont charge, you"re left with a bad battery or wiring or the Gen itself.

8. MOTOR TEST. You can Motor test the Gen. If its grounded and you remove the belt and apply hot battery voltage direct to its ARM Post, it should motor n run well (Armature n Brushes and Commutator okay). Then if you ground the Field and it slows down some, the Fileds probably good. If it passes both those tests, it should charge, and if not, it may be a wirign or battery or grounding problem.

9. Typical Gen problems may be the brushes are worn down or the hold down spring assemblies are stuck/corroded/dirty and arent pushing the brushes tight down against the commutator. Check those things out. Worse may be bad fields or armature etc. Air and WD 40 etc can clean and free them, the hold downs must be free n snap and hold the brushes DOWN TIGHT.


SUMMARY: Check the wiring,,,,,The Genny and VR grounds,,,,,,Insure BAT on VR is hot,,,,,,,check battery (maybe load tested and Specific Gravity checked),,,,,,,,,good tight belt,,,,,,,insure ammeter is continuous (BOTH sides HOT),,,,,,see if battery voltage rises above 12.6 (6.3 for 6 volt) and/or light glow brighter,,,,,,,,,do the Field and cutout relay VR by pass checks,,,,,,,,insure the Gens brushes arent worn down and the hold down springs are free n clean and push the brushes down tight,,,,,,,,,,,check the connections,,,,,,,,,try the Gen Motor Test to see if its good.

You may just have a bad battery or bad ground or connection if you say the Gen and VR are okay.


Good Luck n God Bless, let us all know.

John T in Indiana
 
Before you mess with the regulators pull the gens and have them refreshed. Regulators do just that but the gen needs to charge first probably just need the commutators cleaned and new brushes maybe some bearings and bushings.Thats the first thing i do and usually they work just fine.
 
Remove brush cover. Loosen screw in end of generator. Pry brush holder against rotation to increase charge.Tighten screw.
 
I have found that short brushes don't have a lot of spring pressure as a result and float over the armature causing the problem. Simple fix...new brushes.

Mark
 
The important question is do you need more amps. If the voltages are OK, then do not worry about the amps.
 
the battery has one basic function, provide enough amps to turn the starter to crank the engine. generators and alternators have two purposes; 1st. is to bring the battery up to a state of charge to provide those amps. 2nd. is to carry the load of the accessories (lights,etc.). after the battery is returned to a state of charge then the only amps produced by the generator/alternator is for those accessories. not that familiar with those tractors but there may not be any accessories to provide amps to; therefore you will see little/no amps.
 
Pete, you are right, too many people worry about amps. I will restate what my dad said, "take care of the volts and the amps will take care of themselves".
 
If both tractors start as they should,they are charging enough.Batteries need to have a discharge to require more amps to recharge.
 
Yes, connect an accurate voltmeter to the battery posts with the tractor running 1/2 throttle or more. 6V should show 7-7.2 volts running, 12V should show 13.8-14.2Volts running. If the volts are right, the amps will take care of themselves.
 
My Ford has been running 3 to 5 amps for 25 years with no problem.Ive seen many Farm Alls with corroded battery boxes and transmission housings from overcharging.Take some voltage readings and hydrometer readings before you mess things up.
 
(quoted from post at 05:30:51 03/22/13) My Ford has been running 3 to 5 amps for 25 years with no problem.Ive seen many Farm Alls with corroded battery boxes and transmission housings from overcharging.Take some voltage readings and hydrometer readings before you mess things up.

Good to see you back coupe!
 

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