Ford Square Baler - Model 530

My neighbor gave me a Ford Model 530 square baler. There is a part on the knotter, with the numbers 145474 cast into it. I do not know what the name of this part is. It came from the right side of the knotters and was broken years ago. They had welded it back and it worked for a year or two. Then they had trouble with the knots breaking. They thought it was cutting the string after it had knotted. They could not get it to work, so they parked it for about 12 years and now they have given it to me. The bolt broke when I went to remove the part. Is this bolt a stud that is screwed into the casting? It does not appear to go all the way through and there is no head on it on the other side. I thought someone might know if the bolt is pinned in the casting or threaded in the casting. I do not have a manual for it. Also, I am not sure where to get parts for this baler. Our Ford dealer closed their doors here several years ago, so we have no Ford or New Holland dealer here now. I will post some photos of the part I am talking about. Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Bob

Go to external_link and click on New Holland parts
diagram and you can see a complete breakdown of your
baler. I have a Ford 532 baler and parts are hard to
come by.

I call it a Bill Hook Dog, holds the tension on the bill hook. The bolt is just a stud that screws in. They work loose over time. Bottom probably should be loc-tited in to keep it from loosening. Several problems could be if it don't tie, twine tension thru the twine disc, worn bill hook, worn stripper arm, twine knife dull, bent main knotter shaft, bill hook dog worn. I had a 542 when I farmed, grew to hate it.

A couple of years ago, I had a working 532 baler that I almost couldn't give away. The only interest I could get for it was from the scrap man. You know who got it.

Thank you for your answers and help, Bob

The bill hook has to open slightly to stretch the knot so the wiper can pull the knot off the bill hook.Theres a bushing or bearing on the back of the bill hook that runs in a groove.The old style bronze bearing stops turning on its shaft and wears flat spots.When that happens the bill hook doesnt stretch the knot and it sticks to the bill.The knife comes along and cuts the string while the knot hangs up on the bill hook.Hard to describe in print.New bill hooks have a sealed ball bearing.I quit haying 3 years ago because of heart problems.My NH 68 was worn out when I got it but baled hay for many years.

I didn't gather from your post whether or not the knot was breaking over the bill hook or after the bale left the machine. If the knot is being broken as it is tied, the tension on the twine disc is too great. That adjustment is the bolt directly your pen, and, on the other side of the knotter frame, those little flat strips are the springs that bear against the twine holder. The bill hook pulls about 1/4" of twine from the twine disc as it (the bill hook) rotates. If it cannot pull out the twine, it breaks over the bill hook and no knot is tied in either end. If the knot is tied and breaks later, that is due to the stripper not contacting the bill hook and riding over the fibers, cutting them. Another possibility of a failed knot is a burr on the stripper arm in the vicinity of the twine, probably due to brutal adjustment of the stripper arm by a previous owner. The stripper arm should contact the bill hook 5/8" from the tip. The part you have removed is the cam to hold the bill hook jaw shut. The jaw is not supposed to open at all, other than when it is grabbing the twine. Too little tension on this cam will allow the jaw to open, and not pull the twine ends through the knot. Too much tension will make the knot hang on the bill hook after the stripper wipes the knot. The knot will be successfully tied, and will be pulled off by the bale, but excessive tension serves only to increase knotter wear. There should be just enough tension on the jaw to pull the ends through the knot. The thing to do first, is get an assistant to turn the flywheel through a knotting cycle, slowly, with hay in the chamber, while you watch what's going on. Then use tractor power to pump a couple pads past your test knot, to clear the mechanism and get the twine laying in position to be tied.