Farmall Cub Conversion from 6 to 12 volts

I am in the process of converting a 1953 Farmall Cub from 6 volt to 12 volt electrical system using a 10SI 110 Amp one wire Alternator using 16 or 18 gauge wire with a 1 amp/50 volt diode in line. I know the Alternator wiring is suppose to be somewhat easier when using an Alternator with one wire or so stated in the 5/23/13 article reference Recommendation for 12 Volt Conversions referencing an Article Copyright 1999 Genesee Products. That article explained somewhat how a two and three wire Alternator wires out, but, although briefly mentioning a one wire Alternator, never indicated the completion of the one wire Alternator's wiring. My question is, does that single Alternator wire run from the Alternator directly to the starter stud or does it run to the ignition switch?

A delco one wire alternator only requires a simple direct to battery connection to work, it does not need a diode and should be more like 10 or 12 gauge wire.

Kevin

One wire alternator wire goes to same place as the BAT wire on the generator regulator. Minimum 12 gauge wire, 10 gauge better

I'm not a fan of conversions. I run 3 Cubs (All 6 volt) and they always start on the first try down to 0 deg. Any colder than that I stay inside and warm.
If a cub don't start easily something is wrong. Cheaper to fix it.

(quoted from post at 15:51:22 05/25/13) I'm not a fan of conversions. I run 3 Cubs (All 6 volt) and they always start on the first try down to 0 deg. Any colder than that I stay inside and warm.
If a cub don't start easily something is wrong. Cheaper to fix it.

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Jim, that's a pretty broad statement. This site gets $266.00 plus core for a cub generator. I just bought a 10SI at Napa for my 8N for $35.00 plus core. That's not really cheaper.

Ennywho, there's lots of reasons for conversions, and most of them aren't about hard starting.

I convert ours because you can't get 6 volt solenoids for spot sprayers, or 6 volt pumps for wand sprayers. Good lighting systems for 6 volt don't exist if you want to do any serious night work.

When my wife mowed our lawn with a super A, I converted it so she could have a decent radio on it.

Lots of reasons to convert, and one of the most common is "Just 'cause I want to."

The BAT wire from your "1 wire" alternator goes to one post on the ammeter, the same post as the ignition switch and light switch connect to.
The other ammeter post connects to the battery, likely at the starter switch.
The alternator must be connected through the ammeter to give you a charge indicator.

Do you really have a 110 amp "1wire"alternator ??
If so, I would ask why did you get one that large? A 110 amp alternator is too large for the wiring and ammeter on your tractor. Also a 37 amp "1 wire alternator will excite(start charging) at less than 1/2 the rpm of a 60, 72 or 110 amp 1 wire alternator. Your tractor engine may not run fast enough to excite a high amp "1 wire " alternator.
If you do have a very high amp "1 wire" alternator, I would exchange it for a 37 amp model, it will serve you much better unless you have a very large electrical accessory load that requires that many amps.
I fault the parts store for only wstocking very large amp "1 wire" alternators. They can often stock only the large ones, as they can substitute a larg alternator for a small alternator application. Fine for a high rpm automotive engine, but many older tractor engines simply do not run fast enough to excite those big "1 wire" alternators.

10 gauge wire is as small as one should use on the charge wire be it a 1 or A 3 wire. 16 or 18 is to small any place in the circuit. 14 or 12 is ok for the 2 wire plug.
As for the 1 wire that wire goes to the amp gauge just like the charge wire from the generator does

That tractor should have a 40-60 amp alternator. That would be at least #10. I am thinking you would want at least #4 for 100 amps.

(quoted from post at 17:49:08 05/25/13) That tractor should have a 40-60 amp alternator. That would be at least #10. I am thinking you would want at least #4 for 100 amps.

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I do agree with this but it is also important to note that an alternator will only put out the amount of amperage that is required, I seriously doubt anyone could ever come close to needing 100 amps on an old tractor no matter how many lights they are running...... I would save a little money and buy a 60 amp unit at most. I also agree that if you are using an amp gauge that is the correct place to hook up the charge wire, if not it goes right to battery positive.

Kevin

from the files
alternator how to

Lots of reasons to convert,none make any sense.A cub starter will cost plenty after 12 volts bust it up.Ive repaired many generators with a set of 3.00 brushes.My sprayer has its on 12v battery.My tractors are not toys.

5 amps is plenty of these old tractors.10 if lights are used..