Is there a way to neutralize Chloride?

Working on a tractor for a friend and one of the rear tires is leaking chloride out of the valve stem. Took the wheel to the local co-op and they removed the tire for me. The rim is pretty badly rusted and I am going to have it sandblasted. I have had one of the tires on my Farmall H break open and the chloride went everywhere of course. I wire wheeled the rim - just surface rust - and painted it. Within a few weeks I had rust coming through the paint where the chloride had gotten on the rim. Is there a way to "neutralize" the metal where the chloride was so the rust actually stops and there is no chloride in the metal?

Thanks!

Norm

Chloride as in calcium chloride is a form of a salt and so to do any thing with it you have to wash it off a few times to get rid of it. Sorry a slat is not like an acid where you can stop what it does by adding a base to it. When I do rims I clean them off real good with water and sand or a wire wheel and then paint them with truck bed coating spray

Wash with water and let access water run off of wheel. Spray or brush wheel with 1 part vinegar in 2 parts water and allow to sit 5 minutes. Rinse with water and repeat. The wheel is now 99% free of chloride but will benifit from application of rust converter because even wire brushing will not eleminate all rust and rust will break through paint.

Try Ospho.

Norm,

Try "rustmort" It's a phosphoric acid based converter I think. I can go check, but, get it sandblasted and then rinse with a ton of water. after that, apply rustmort with a brush or a windex bottle.

Rustmort is the best thing you can do after you triple rinse. It's all about flushing away every bit of it. Water doesn't hurt bare steel nearly as bad as any chemical in conjunction with water. Getting the calcium away is key, and water is the answer. I know it sounds stupid to dowse bare metal with water, but it really is the best thing. Those pits contain a lot calcium. getting them clean and then water with a hand wire brush and flood the driveway if you have to. that's the way to go. Lot's of good tips in this thread. I owned an autobody shop for 9 years, close to 18 years professional experience...


That is what I would do. treat bare metal with additional sandblasting, followed by dry scrubbing and air from a blow gun. You have to get the sand off the metal. Then a good epoxy primer(if you can find someone with old style lead based epoxy primer, you are good) Try some PPG DP-LF primer on all the bare metal, let it cure, then follow up with a build primer. That si the best way to get it to last. It's all about flushing with water and scrubbing. You have to get all the pockets of rust killed.


I wish you good luck!

The key is to remove all of the paint in order to get the salt off. Then as others have said acid wash of your choice to convert residual rust to iron phosphate.

The best luck I've had is with the pressure washer. I suppose it helps that it heats the water to almost boiling. I don't know how well cold water would do.

Wash, dry and coat with POR 15.

Read the info on the can. I bought a pint and it is thin and goes a long way. It was on the rims of my 26 Chevy when I put new tires on it. I could not sand blast the stuff off. It took for ever with a knotted wire cup wheel to get it off. It was on the rims over road dirt and still worked. Two weekends for five rims to clean them up.
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I just did one rear wheel of my JD AR this summer. Drained the chloride as I don't need it anymore. Wire brushed, and then sand blasted the wheel on the worst rusted areas. A product called "naval jelly' is what I brushed onto the rusted areas. I think it is a type of acid that dries into a whitish coating. Sprayed paint on and called it good. Time will tell how well it works. This wheel had some deep rust pits around the valve stem. I have seen wheels rusted right through from chloride.

I am working on four wheels now off and on when I get time. One I am welding the deep pits that run the diameter of the 24 inch rim. Another I cut out the valve stem area on a 15 inch plow rim and welded in a patch. That one I have welded up the rusted thru holes and coated with POR 15, after reading how glenster over on paint board,with the many thin places I am going to coat the inside with fiberglass mat, sand and recoat with the POR 15. I have another 24 inch rim that I have cut out a section ready for a large patch. Much like this one I posted about a few years back.


Rim Repair

I've sanded mine down and repainted them 3 or 4 times took em to bare metal each time washed and painted and it still keeps eating the paint and rusting and making rust flakes causing holes in tube / flat tires

What is POR 15?