There are a couple of companies making hard plastic sleeves that slip over pole barn posts. One company offers a post protector that actually has a bottom in it. So the post drops into the square tube and the entire assembly goes into the ground. Has some ribs on it to help prevent it from pulling out of the ground. Ribs on the inside for it to "air out". They come in different sizes. I suppose it would come out of the ground 16" to 24". Another one I saw is just a sleeve that protects the post maybe a foot or two into the soil and a foot or two out of the soil. Right where the wood rots. Looks like a good idea to me. Any one have experience with these or installed them?? Thanks.
- Thread starter andy r
- Start date
15 years ago I installed CCA-treated posts in PVC sleeves, the only thing contacting the ground was the bottom of the posts. It was just s small shed, the idea was it would be removable, which I never got around to. Termites found the bottoms of the poles in less than 15 years. And have destroyed some.
If you have poles contacting soil, make sure SURE you have the correct amount of chemicals, since it is "Structure Critical";
“NatureWood”
Alkaline Copper Quaternary ACQ 0.60 pcf for Ground Contact / Critical Structures / Foundation Use
“Micro-Pro / Smart-Sense”
Micronized Copper Quaternary MCQ 0.60 pcf for Ground Contact / Critical Structures / Foundation Use
“Micro-Pro / Life-Wood”
Micronized Copper (tebuconazole) Azole MCA 0.23 pcf for Ground Contact / Critical Structural / Foundation Use
If you have poles contacting soil, make sure SURE you have the correct amount of chemicals, since it is "Structure Critical";
“NatureWood”
Alkaline Copper Quaternary ACQ 0.60 pcf for Ground Contact / Critical Structures / Foundation Use
“Micro-Pro / Smart-Sense”
Micronized Copper Quaternary MCQ 0.60 pcf for Ground Contact / Critical Structures / Foundation Use
“Micro-Pro / Life-Wood”
Micronized Copper (tebuconazole) Azole MCA 0.23 pcf for Ground Contact / Critical Structural / Foundation Use
Robert in Md.
Member
I had a pole building built in August and used locally treated 6 x 6's. The builder was going to use CCA .6 treatment. We have a local treatment plant near and I could buy posts with 1.5 ,freshwater wharfing or 2.5 saltwater wharfing. I chose the l.5 treatment which is almost 3 times the .6 treatment.Who knows only time will tell if the extra treatment helps. The 1.5 posts were only $ 4.00 more per 16 ft. 6x6's.
How would the pole anchor into the ground with a totally encased pole, I'd be worried about the wind lifting your building, and I'd be worried about water sitting inside the sleeve. I would not care for the totally encased sleeve at all.
On my pole barn they used the sleeve for the center door guide poles, rest of building did not, laminated 2x8 poles, below ground pieces treated of course.
Paul
On my pole barn they used the sleeve for the center door guide poles, rest of building did not, laminated 2x8 poles, below ground pieces treated of course.
Paul
MarkB_MI
Well-known Member
- Location
- Motown USA
What purpose are these supposed to serve? If you're worried about rot, the number one thing is to be sure you're using posts properly treated for ground contact. Pour a plug at the bottom of your hole at least ten inches thick and ten inches in diameter to support the post. After inserting the post, backfill the hole with pea gravel for the first foot or so.
If you're really concerned about rot, the best thing is to eliminate ground contact altogether with concrete footings.
If you're really concerned about rot, the best thing is to eliminate ground contact altogether with concrete footings.
Texasmark1
Well-known Member
I have a Morton building built in 1981. The posts were actually 3 2x10 or 12s that appeared to be creosote treated. The posts actually came in two sections bolted together; the treated ground part and the regular lumber above ground part. I realize the time line but wanted something better as age has taken it's toll, treated with creosote or not.
In '05 I had BCI of Muskogee, OK. build a barn/shop for me. They used true 5" square treated timbers in one piece buried 3' in the ground on 10' centers.
They offered a plastic sleeve 5' long (3 in 2 out) for $25. I bought one for each pole that was inside the perimeter of the building (weather protected) and outside where the "shed" poles were (roof extension out 15') I didn't use them as I didn't want them to fill with water.
Nothing to report as no problems with either.
HTH,
Mark
In '05 I had BCI of Muskogee, OK. build a barn/shop for me. They used true 5" square treated timbers in one piece buried 3' in the ground on 10' centers.
They offered a plastic sleeve 5' long (3 in 2 out) for $25. I bought one for each pole that was inside the perimeter of the building (weather protected) and outside where the "shed" poles were (roof extension out 15') I didn't use them as I didn't want them to fill with water.
Nothing to report as no problems with either.
HTH,
Mark
dcarp
Well-known Member
- Location
- Schulenburg Texas
I built a 30 x 15 shed, poured concrete footings for the poles. The footings extend 14 inches above ground, poles won't rot in my life time. Takes a little more work to do it that way but it has been well worth it. Here in SE TX any wood, treated or not, in contact with the soil, will eventually be eaten by termites or rot from moisture, if the weather returns to normal.
rdandersom
Member
Interesting that it worked so well for you.Grandfather built a shed 45 years ago.This was before pressure treated wood and he didn't trust the idea of wood in the ground so put concrete under the poles 1' out of the ground.The pole/concrete bends at the joint and since the frost leaves the outdoor soil weeks before the shaded interior the shed gets wider every year as the concrete gets shoved further toward the outside every spring.
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