JohnDeereJimOhio
Member
New construction house with new Chimney pipe. Should it look like
this on top? Has been in use since October.
this on top? Has been in use since October.
- Thread starter JohnDeereJimOhio
- Start date
JohnDeereJimOhio
Member
Hard wood, that has been dried for a year and a half, using the dampener to control heat and burn time.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Looks like you have a lot of chersont (sp) build up and you need to check/clean your chimney before you burn your place down. Pipe at the top of staying to cool so it has lot of build up on it and then means a possible chimney fire
JohnDeereJimOhio
Member
Do you think this is from closing the dampener overnight or while we are at work?
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Yes
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Could well be that yes your closing it off to tight so the upper part of the chimney stays to cool so it has that build up which leads to fires
mattwillson
Member
Do yourself a favor and get rid of that damn cap...put a damper in the pipe coming out of the stove for control.up to you..old school still works
T in NE
Well-known Member
- Location
- Cambridge, Nebraska
I burn ash, elm, hackberry, and black locust. The locust is the only one that will burn hot enough that I can damp it back to the half-way point on my wood furnace.
Open up the damper a couple times a week and let it get hot. Once you get it cleaned out.
Don't know why, but tossing a couple beer cans on top of the wood seems to really help keep the chimney clear.
Don't know what the bottom ring is there, but if the cap rusts out or blows off, get it replaced, without it you can get quite a downdraft.
Open up the damper a couple times a week and let it get hot. Once you get it cleaned out.
Don't know why, but tossing a couple beer cans on top of the wood seems to really help keep the chimney clear.
Don't know what the bottom ring is there, but if the cap rusts out or blows off, get it replaced, without it you can get quite a downdraft.
notjustair
Well-known Member
I put a new stove in the carrage house that is pretty small. It struggles to get the flue good and hot. Mine looks like yours.
Make sure you keep it hot enough. Open the damper all of the way once a day and get the flue good and hot. Throw in a pop can each day also. If you pull it down while you are in bed use a piece of hedge to keep your temps up.
Make sure you keep it hot enough. Open the damper all of the way once a day and get the flue good and hot. Throw in a pop can each day also. If you pull it down while you are in bed use a piece of hedge to keep your temps up.
TomH in PA
Well-known Member
Is the chimney tall enough? Should be a couple of feet above the roof ridge. Hard to tell from that picture but if it"s too low you could be getting a downdraft.
Start every day with a hot fire. I close it completely at night, don"t like to let it smolder.
Start every day with a hot fire. I close it completely at night, don"t like to let it smolder.
Part Time Pete
Well-known Member
- Location
- Leatherstocking Region NY
Even when dry, all wood will create a certain amount of creosote, which will discolor your stack. It's important to keep it clean. I have two airtight stoves with metalbestos chimneys similar to yours. I run them roughly 8 hrs a day, and clean them once a month. Another 3' of stack will help your draft, if that's an issue
Pete
Pete
Jim in Ma.
Well-known Member
How high above the peak of the roof are you? You should be about two feet higher than surrounding roof for a better draft.
Adirondack case guy
Well-known Member
It is fine, don't worry about it. Code requires that the top be 2' above closest roof slope measured 10'horizontally from the chimney, to the roof slope.
Don't worry about it unless it is dribbling cresote down the sides of it.
Mine, hooked to an air tight, forced cumbustion boiler, is discolored down a couple of feet and it is centered in the ridge of my garage with a 15' SS insulated chimney, clearing the ridge by 3', straight up with no elboes.
Loren, the Acg.
Don't worry about it unless it is dribbling cresote down the sides of it.
Mine, hooked to an air tight, forced cumbustion boiler, is discolored down a couple of feet and it is centered in the ridge of my garage with a 15' SS insulated chimney, clearing the ridge by 3', straight up with no elboes.
Loren, the Acg.
Stephen Newell
Well-known Member
I think since the pipe doesn't appear to be tall enough there is enough of a downdraft to cause the pipe to look like that. What may be worse is what is building up inside of the pipe. When the weather warms up I would add to the height of the stack to put the cap two feet above the peak of the roof.
BushogPapa
Well-known Member
On mine, my Cap looks somewhat larger in diameter but mine also has a ring just under the opening that keeps the smoke from drawing down the pipe on the back side from the wind.
My stove is an old "Atlanta" stove and being Sheet-Metal/Cast Iron, really puts out the Heat..
Anyone know of a source for replacement sheet=Metal for these stoves..?
Ron.
MARK ROBKE
Well-known Member
I have a metalbestos chimney, 8", and it draws great. I clean it yearly, burn dead dry wood mostly, and most of the time the stove is shut down almost completely air tight. I have the cap on it too, and would not ever leave it off due to rain. There is some discoloring but not like yours; maybe just a few inches. I even have a screen around the cap to keep birds out in the summer. My 6" chimney in my garage does not draw nearly as good, but it does not go above the peak, but the one in the house does and it draws way better as I said. If you do not have smoke in the house and it draws good, starts a fire easily without back draft into the house, I"d leave it alone. But if it does, add another section on to it.
Does your chimney come from the 1st floor, or is it 2 stories? If it is 2 stories, maybe it just gets too cool at the top. Mine are both 1 story. Mark
Does your chimney come from the 1st floor, or is it 2 stories? If it is 2 stories, maybe it just gets too cool at the top. Mine are both 1 story. Mark
The chimney hooked to my wood-furnace gets looking like that every month of use during the winter. Especially at the cap itself that gets pretty full of creosote. It's pretty normal unless you've got a wood burner that runs full-bore "as hot as you can get it" all the time.
The stack looks tall enough to me. You can check it though. It needs to be at least 10' to the roof measuring level across @ 2' height on the stack from the roof surface.
That discoloration looks fairly typical for a double or triple wall stack. If it is double or triple wall don't remove the cap.
Just clean your chimney periodically and don't close the damper or air intake too much.
That discoloration looks fairly typical for a double or triple wall stack. If it is double or triple wall don't remove the cap.
Just clean your chimney periodically and don't close the damper or air intake too much.
T in NE
Well-known Member
- Location
- Cambridge, Nebraska
My co-worker's in-laws claim that when they first started burning wood, they made that mistake. With the lights out, you could read by the glow of the cast iron stove and stovepipe. They slept in shifts that night. Wouldn't dare try to cool it with anything but air when it's that hot.
Guess it was about 20 below that night, they had windows open and fans going, and still pushing 100 inside.
Thought I had some hedgeapple located, but it turned out to be locust. And when I moved out here, the guy I was working with told me some trees were hedgeapple, but my current co-workers father-in-law says they are burr oak. We cut up a couple that had to come out, and there was acorn lids on the ground under them.
That stuff is hard. When I hit the stump with the axe, it almost rang like hitting steel. The locust laughs at the 8 pound splitting axe. Stretches out a chain pretty well too, even a good Stihl chain.
What the guy told me were cottonwood are also elm, too.
We only get about 20 inches of rain a year around here, but if I knock down anything over about 6 inches in diameter, if I don't knock it down into 6 foot or shorter lengths, it will still rot inside within 2 years.
Guess it was about 20 below that night, they had windows open and fans going, and still pushing 100 inside.
Thought I had some hedgeapple located, but it turned out to be locust. And when I moved out here, the guy I was working with told me some trees were hedgeapple, but my current co-workers father-in-law says they are burr oak. We cut up a couple that had to come out, and there was acorn lids on the ground under them.
That stuff is hard. When I hit the stump with the axe, it almost rang like hitting steel. The locust laughs at the 8 pound splitting axe. Stretches out a chain pretty well too, even a good Stihl chain.
What the guy told me were cottonwood are also elm, too.
We only get about 20 inches of rain a year around here, but if I knock down anything over about 6 inches in diameter, if I don't knock it down into 6 foot or shorter lengths, it will still rot inside within 2 years.
Russ from MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Bemidji MN
During the heating season I take the cap off, we don't get much rain in the winter. We burn ours pretty hot, and we have a double wall pipe from the stove to the chimney to keep the chimney hotter, makes the stove more efficient also. Those caps can plug up to the point of restricting draft also. Are you sure the cap is designed for burning wood?
T in NE
Well-known Member
- Location
- Cambridge, Nebraska
I have that cap on my stovepipe. It's not a damper. It will still vent as well as having the top open, but when the wind blows the wrong way, instead of having a huge downdraft, there's a barely noticeable downdraft. Fought a downdraft for 2 winters, this winter with that cap, I've only had trouble with it once.
Dave Sherburne NY
Well-known Member
Everytime you load the stove, let it burn until you have a good flame before you close your damper. That will burn off a lot of the creosote which when the pipe is hot enough, will go right out the top. Don't worry about that minor discoloration your getting. I had the same pipe as you have, watch that cap, that's where you will get the creosote buildup. Take a long stick and bang on the cap to knock the creosote off. What kind of a stove are you using?
RandyB(MI)
Well-known Member
lots of good advice. looks like you live in wooded area like I do and you get a lot of tri-directional wind turbulence and does'nt take long to look like that.
mattwillson
Member
You are correct, slowing down the draft will plug off the chimney and will cause trouble. I watched my dad go through that trouble many years ago. An old timer told him to remove the cap and there was never a problem after that. Dad would burn any kind of wood he could get....I can still remember the house always being 80+ degrees all winter and mom would cook stew on that old carmor airtight woodstove...
Lou from Wi.
Well-known Member
JohnDeereJimOhio,
Here's a picture of our garage metal bestos chimney that has been going for 5 years.We have it 24" above the peak of the roof. We use a lot of newspaper to preheat the chimney when starting a fire.No creosote and no discoloration. We keep the cap on all the time,there is no water or leaves or birds nests,bees nest inside the pipe. A picture is worth a 1,000 words.lol.
LOU
Here's a picture of our garage metal bestos chimney that has been going for 5 years.We have it 24" above the peak of the roof. We use a lot of newspaper to preheat the chimney when starting a fire.No creosote and no discoloration. We keep the cap on all the time,there is no water or leaves or birds nests,bees nest inside the pipe. A picture is worth a 1,000 words.lol.
LOU
JohnDeereJimOhio
Member
I will take a better picture of it tomorrow. When talking about the dampener I mean the one on the wood stove. The stove we are using is a performer from Menards. We get it pretty hot everyday. The pipe is straight up and we had a furnace guy who does wood burners put it in. Whats the idea behind a can being in it? What about the creosote logs? I also believe the chimney is high enough above the roof line as said above we had someone put it in who was qualified. We dont have any problems with it back drafting or being hard to start a fire....
oliver power
Member
You want a cap on that chimney. Just not that cap. Example: A flat hat about 5 - 8 inches over/above the chimney pipe is best. Maybe 12" - 15" in diameter.
The outside of the chimney is dead cold compared to the inside. It's going to discolor when you don't have a hard fire going simply because the wind will push the smoke around a bit and the outside discolors from that. It's not really indicative of any problem. Those who choose to leave the pipe damper wide open all the time can have at at. I've been burning wood since '72 or earlier and we've always used the damper to slow the heat escaping up the chimney.
Woodstoves are not maintenance free. You have to clean the chimney if you're burning wood. Just do it on a month to be safe.
rdandersom
Member
We moved to the old farmhouse on our place this past fall.I grewup in that house but hadn't lived there for 30 years.The family consists of myself ,my wife,son his girlfriend and thier baby.I am the only one with any woodburning experience.
My mother was given a magnetic stovepipe thermometer that sticks to the pipe about 18" above the firebox.It reads temperature of the flue and is marked TOO HOT above 500 degrees,BEST OPERATION 250 to500 degrees and CREOSOTE below 250.The inexperienced woodburners are able to judge thier fire by the guage and adjust the draft setting on the stove accordingly.
I would reccomend one to anybody.It says IMPERIAL KALKEM on it and I think it probably came from TSC.We burned a ridiculous amount of wood this winter and are now digging blocks out of snowbanks to burn.The chimney was cleaned the last day of 2013 and again February 3.There was planty of soot due to the sheer volume of wood used but no creosote.
Our chimney has no cap as my Dad took it off years ago.His first chimney brush had hooks on both sides of the brush.He would go up on the roof and lower a rope down the stovepipe so the brush could be pulled up and down the pipe to clean it.I remember that job well because I was always the guy on the bottom.I get discolouration on the pipe like you and even yellow icicles from the edge of the bracket the cap was fastened to.
My mother was given a magnetic stovepipe thermometer that sticks to the pipe about 18" above the firebox.It reads temperature of the flue and is marked TOO HOT above 500 degrees,BEST OPERATION 250 to500 degrees and CREOSOTE below 250.The inexperienced woodburners are able to judge thier fire by the guage and adjust the draft setting on the stove accordingly.
I would reccomend one to anybody.It says IMPERIAL KALKEM on it and I think it probably came from TSC.We burned a ridiculous amount of wood this winter and are now digging blocks out of snowbanks to burn.The chimney was cleaned the last day of 2013 and again February 3.There was planty of soot due to the sheer volume of wood used but no creosote.
Our chimney has no cap as my Dad took it off years ago.His first chimney brush had hooks on both sides of the brush.He would go up on the roof and lower a rope down the stovepipe so the brush could be pulled up and down the pipe to clean it.I remember that job well because I was always the guy on the bottom.I get discolouration on the pipe like you and even yellow icicles from the edge of the bracket the cap was fastened to.
Hal/ Eastern WA
Member
Years ago I had a Metalbestos chimney with a similar uninsulated cap. We burned quite a lot of mostly pine in the wood stove, and I was concerned about creasote. So I checked the chimney and found that the underside of the cap had quite a buildup of crud on it. It was hard to get into the chimney, but down inside the pipe, it was perfectly clean--no creasote, not soot, just metal. So I put the cap back on and once in awhile I had a particularly hot fire with the stove draft open. That seemed to clean off the cap pretty well.
After a few years of doing this, apparently the supports for the cap either burned away or corroded away, and in a big wind storm, the cap flew off. The stove seemed to work just fine without the cap, so I never replaced it. I did find the original cap quite a distance from the house a year or two later.
Where I live, we get most of our heavy precipitation during the seasons a wood stove would be in use, so it didn"t seem to make any difference if the chimney was capped or not. But maybe it would be more important to have a cap where you are. An uninsulated metal cap is going to collect some creasote if wood is burned, at least under some conditions.
When I sold the mobile home the chimney was used in, I kept the stove and chimney out of concern for potential liability. I plan to use the chimney when I build my next pole building. Other than the section that was right next to the stove, all the sections of the Metalbestos chimney seemed perfect and reusable. I have no intentions of trying to use the stupid cap though.
If you need to keep the cap, you might also need to pay attention to it and possibly clean it periodically. Or you might try taking it off and seeing how that works for you. Warning: lots of rain and no fire in the stove might result in a wet floor. Also birds and other critters might be able to come down the open chimney. Good luck!
After a few years of doing this, apparently the supports for the cap either burned away or corroded away, and in a big wind storm, the cap flew off. The stove seemed to work just fine without the cap, so I never replaced it. I did find the original cap quite a distance from the house a year or two later.
Where I live, we get most of our heavy precipitation during the seasons a wood stove would be in use, so it didn"t seem to make any difference if the chimney was capped or not. But maybe it would be more important to have a cap where you are. An uninsulated metal cap is going to collect some creasote if wood is burned, at least under some conditions.
When I sold the mobile home the chimney was used in, I kept the stove and chimney out of concern for potential liability. I plan to use the chimney when I build my next pole building. Other than the section that was right next to the stove, all the sections of the Metalbestos chimney seemed perfect and reusable. I have no intentions of trying to use the stupid cap though.
If you need to keep the cap, you might also need to pay attention to it and possibly clean it periodically. Or you might try taking it off and seeing how that works for you. Warning: lots of rain and no fire in the stove might result in a wet floor. Also birds and other critters might be able to come down the open chimney. Good luck!
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