- Thread starter Royse
- Start date
Determined
Well-known Member
Do you still wonder why antifreeze costs less at Walmart.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
With a little grinding on the rib toward the left end, a nice steel plate could be made to cover and bolt on. Mu shruggestion is about 2" apart and SS bolts. Jim
Will Herring
Well-known Member
Ouch, nasty. Get super cold there? Or something else happen?
Dave Sherburne NY
Well-known Member
I had a bigger piece than that freeze out in a Farmall A that I bought. I took it to the best welder in the county and he told me to clean it up real good and glue it back in with JB Weld. I had the engine out of the tractor laying on it's side. Cleaned the block and the piece with a wire wheel in a 4 inch grinder and lacquer thinner and stuck it on with JB weld. That was over 10 years ago and it's still there. Only difference between then and now, you have to adhere it instead of sticking it on.
Paul from MI
Well-known Member
Bet you could find another block cheap, but it'd be a lot of work switching all the internals over to the new block. On the other hand JB weld is pretty inexpensive.
Mark - IN.
Well-known Member
I don't shop at Walmart, my choice...for now. But have to ask a question since they've been brought up here a couple of times. Is Prestone, Peak, Zerex, Chevron, Texaco or other brands of antifreeze lower quality antifreeze if purchased at Walmart than if purchased at say, AutoZone, Napa, O'Reilly or elsewhere? Do the major manufacturers have lower grade versions in the same containers that get sold through Walmart? I don't know, maybe they do. If so, that would be one more reason for me not to shop at Walmart, but I don't know that it would be so.
Anyway, as someone suggested, he should clean it up, grind it, and either weld a plate over it, or machine it for a clean out.
Good luck.
Mark
Anyway, as someone suggested, he should clean it up, grind it, and either weld a plate over it, or machine it for a clean out.
Good luck.
Mark
Royse- I kind of find it like an accomplishment when I can fix something and have it running again, while others say it can't be done.
I had rod bearings blow on two cylinders in a Ford 860gasser. The first cylinder threw the piston through the wall of the crankcase. Second piston disintegrated as well as the rod.
Had the 4 inch hole tig'ed up and jb weld to cover any little seams.
Oil pressure at 47 lbs, and no leaks. 1002 hours on motor since rebuild.
She may be worth saving.
Greg
I had rod bearings blow on two cylinders in a Ford 860gasser. The first cylinder threw the piston through the wall of the crankcase. Second piston disintegrated as well as the rod.
Had the 4 inch hole tig'ed up and jb weld to cover any little seams.
Oil pressure at 47 lbs, and no leaks. 1002 hours on motor since rebuild.
She may be worth saving.
Greg
Mark, I don't know the answer to your question for sure, but I
doubt that the brand name manufacturers would go to the
trouble and expense of bottling different qualities like that.
On the other hand, they do bubble pack spark plugs for chain
stores and box them for auto parts stores, so I could be wrong!
Seems to me they would bottle the same stuff though and not
worry about getting it mixed up.
Not sure how I'm going to fix it yet, but since it started up so
nicely, I'm definitely not going to scrap it.
I have another F12 block. It has been set up tight for years
but it's not cracked. Hmmmm...........
doubt that the brand name manufacturers would go to the
trouble and expense of bottling different qualities like that.
On the other hand, they do bubble pack spark plugs for chain
stores and box them for auto parts stores, so I could be wrong!
Seems to me they would bottle the same stuff though and not
worry about getting it mixed up.
Not sure how I'm going to fix it yet, but since it started up so
nicely, I'm definitely not going to scrap it.
I have another F12 block. It has been set up tight for years
but it's not cracked. Hmmmm...........
Mark - IN.
Well-known Member
Royse,
I had a problem this Spring with my AC-B where I changed the oil, gear lubes and stuff to get it ready for mowing. When I drained the oil, antifreeze led the way, then slightly contaminated oil. Not a lot, but clearly heavier than oil antifreeze led the way. DARN!!! It was extremely cold this Winter, and that little B sat in a corner of a barn. I drained the cooling system, filled it with new antifreeze. As recommended, I pulled the valve cover and checked the 3 freeze plugs in the head for small leaks, but they were solid. Did the valve lash while I was in there. Starting last year, I stopped using non-detergent oil and thought maybe I managed to flush some sludge out that was sealing??? I changed the oil and filter, ran it and used it to clean any possible contamination inside, drained and got rid of it. Put in new oil and use every weekend since doing an acre or couple around the house, draining it before each time...no antifreeze. No contamination.
What the heck. That antifreeze came from somewhere, but where? Because it sat from about November until March in a brutal Winter, something separated that has since swelled and sealed shut? Maybe because it sat for 4 or so months, contamination in the oil sat long enough that the weight of it caused it to separate and drain to the bottom of the crank case, forming back into a small amount of antifreeze? I can't figure it out. Unlike your case, mine appears to have...who knows, but not doing it anymore as far as I can tell. Maybe next Spring, after setting all Winter again...
As I look at your photos, the outside looks a little thin, and the inside looks pretty corroded. If I could see the inside of mine, I might say "Awe shoot", or worse.
Good luck Royse.
Mark
I had a problem this Spring with my AC-B where I changed the oil, gear lubes and stuff to get it ready for mowing. When I drained the oil, antifreeze led the way, then slightly contaminated oil. Not a lot, but clearly heavier than oil antifreeze led the way. DARN!!! It was extremely cold this Winter, and that little B sat in a corner of a barn. I drained the cooling system, filled it with new antifreeze. As recommended, I pulled the valve cover and checked the 3 freeze plugs in the head for small leaks, but they were solid. Did the valve lash while I was in there. Starting last year, I stopped using non-detergent oil and thought maybe I managed to flush some sludge out that was sealing??? I changed the oil and filter, ran it and used it to clean any possible contamination inside, drained and got rid of it. Put in new oil and use every weekend since doing an acre or couple around the house, draining it before each time...no antifreeze. No contamination.
What the heck. That antifreeze came from somewhere, but where? Because it sat from about November until March in a brutal Winter, something separated that has since swelled and sealed shut? Maybe because it sat for 4 or so months, contamination in the oil sat long enough that the weight of it caused it to separate and drain to the bottom of the crank case, forming back into a small amount of antifreeze? I can't figure it out. Unlike your case, mine appears to have...who knows, but not doing it anymore as far as I can tell. Maybe next Spring, after setting all Winter again...
As I look at your photos, the outside looks a little thin, and the inside looks pretty corroded. If I could see the inside of mine, I might say "Awe shoot", or worse.
Good luck Royse.
Mark
Iowa Barber
Member
Did you re-fill with new 50/50 and water? I hope not. JB weld will be your best bet other than a new block. I feel your pain. Brian
Good thought IH_Bug, but not in this case.
My well water is so hard that I buy pre-mixed antifreeze
or buy distilled water and mix it with the antifreeze first.
It was bitter cold this winter, but so far this is the only one
I've found with damage. Hopefully it will remain that way!
My well water is so hard that I buy pre-mixed antifreeze
or buy distilled water and mix it with the antifreeze first.
It was bitter cold this winter, but so far this is the only one
I've found with damage. Hopefully it will remain that way!
Determined
Well-known Member
Mark
My choice is not to darken thier doorstep either so I am only going from what I have heard and read.
Do a google search for supertech antifreeze froze [walmart value brand] and you will get 25 000+ results with all kinds of stories.
I recall watching a show on tv about a business that wanted to market a product through walmart, they were told to do what they had to do to lower there cost down to a certain number or it was no deal.
So does it happen?
I don't know.
These days it's buyer beware and a coolant tester is a good investment.
danmcdonald
Member
JB Welded a Case 800 block over 20 years ago still holding and not leaking. This is a loader tractor that gets heavy use.
just corrosion.
given enough time any metal will turn into tissue paper.
Got a Ford, that after flushing the cooling system, the whole bottom of the block where the base of the water jacket was,
was 'sweating' water right thru the cast iron.
I very carefully cleaned it up and multiple coats of JB, and it is still holding fine years later.
(I'm careful not to hit it right there..with anything
)
given enough time any metal will turn into tissue paper.
Got a Ford, that after flushing the cooling system, the whole bottom of the block where the base of the water jacket was,
was 'sweating' water right thru the cast iron.
I very carefully cleaned it up and multiple coats of JB, and it is still holding fine years later.
(I'm careful not to hit it right there..with anything
)
J.Wondergem
Well-known Member
- Location
- Rockford, Mi.
Royse, I think it's going to be an easy fix. I've seen some pullers blocks glued and fiberglassed up, and hold.
John M
Well-known Member
- Location
- Nunyafn business
Those 12/14 blocks are bad about cracking and busting there. Mine bulged and split many years ago. It has been welded, but after cleaning it up for repainting, it started seeping again. I ground down the old weld, used JB like Bondo, sanded smooth and it doesnt leak, but I don't think I could trust it to hold that in.
Mark - IN.
Well-known Member
JD, thats what I'm hoping for. Its never done that before. This past winter was sub-zero for extended periods of time. Got my fingers crossed. Worse case...will be whatever worse case is. Got the fingers crossed though.
Mark
Mark
Royse:
It looks like someones previous repair failed. In
extremely cold temps as you folks had this past
winter, Cast Iron (porous) shrinks faster than
Epoxy / JB Weld (non-porous) and will pull repairs
apart.
Personally, I would Bead-Blast the entire area,
block & broken piece, including edges; and then
WELD it back together using "Castolin Eutectic"
welding rod.
I've had great success using this particular type
of welding rod - several automotive & marine
blocks and heads, intake & exhaust manifolds, a
LARGE broken tooth on a very large Bull Gear on a
HUGE Mine Hoist, and even to sticking a thin
sheet-metal plate on a 12"x36"x1"web Steel I-Beam
(contact plate for a moving micro-switch) - even
after a couple of "professional" welders said it
couldn't be done. *** So far, I've never had one
of those welds fail. *** (multiple fingers crossed
- LOL) .
Doc
It looks like someones previous repair failed. In
extremely cold temps as you folks had this past
winter, Cast Iron (porous) shrinks faster than
Epoxy / JB Weld (non-porous) and will pull repairs
apart.
Personally, I would Bead-Blast the entire area,
block & broken piece, including edges; and then
WELD it back together using "Castolin Eutectic"
welding rod.
I've had great success using this particular type
of welding rod - several automotive & marine
blocks and heads, intake & exhaust manifolds, a
LARGE broken tooth on a very large Bull Gear on a
HUGE Mine Hoist, and even to sticking a thin
sheet-metal plate on a 12"x36"x1"web Steel I-Beam
(contact plate for a moving micro-switch) - even
after a couple of "professional" welders said it
couldn't be done. *** So far, I've never had one
of those welds fail. *** (multiple fingers crossed
- LOL) .
Doc
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