I have a 1943 Farmall h that i am restoring. The engine is locked up so i"m trying to get to the pistons to put PB Blaster on them and try to pound them out but i kind of hit a roadblock. I have all the bolts to take the head off and when I go to try to take the head off the one side will only move about 1/8 of an inch but the other side won"t move at all.
- Thread starter Nathan P
- Start date
Wayne in MN
Well-known Member
Did you remove the brass fitting at the rear of the head? It connects to the air cleaner as part of the crankcase breather system. Another fitting is at the front but does not need to be removed to take the head off.
cole in mo.
Well-known Member
If its got studs, it sounds like they are rusted to the head.
GET A REAL STIFF PUTTY KNIFE OR A SCRAPER AND WORK IT IN UNDER THE END OF THE HEAD THAT WILL MOVE. TAP IT ALONG SIDEWAYS WITH A BALL PEIN HAMMER AND BREAK THE "SEAL" that is the gunk between the gasket and the head.
once around a couple screw driver tapped in at various places and jack it up/ It's not gonna slide off like you tennis shoes LOL
once around a couple screw driver tapped in at various places and jack it up/ It's not gonna slide off like you tennis shoes LOL
Christopher Mikesell
Member
PB blaster is not a magic bullet. It will not readily penetrate through really solid rust. This type of rust takes time and patience. If you are going to pound on the pistons, at least use a block of wood to spread out the stress and reduce the chance of knocking holes through the piston crowns.
Hendrik
Member
In trying to remove the head of my Super A, I found that the crud between the head studs and in the holes in the head provided far more resistance than the head sticking to the engine block.
Note that the holes in the head are substantially larger (order of magnitude: one tenth of an inch) than the diameter of the studs; I was surprized by the amount of crud that accumulated around the studs over nearly the full height of the head.
Note that the holes in the head are substantially larger (order of magnitude: one tenth of an inch) than the diameter of the studs; I was surprized by the amount of crud that accumulated around the studs over nearly the full height of the head.
redforlife
Well-known Member
If everything that needs taking off is off, then your head is either sticking to the stud bolts or the head gasket. Be careful what you do to free it up. You don't want to gouge, crack, or break it trying to jar it loose. As for freeing the pistons, thats always a crap shoot. Some stuck engines can be torn down and all parts re-used once freed up, and some cases turn out to have pitted sleeves, and or exstremely worn parts that can't be re-used, and I have seen pistons and sleeves that you might as well say will never be seperated again and even if you could they would't be no good to use. As far as the best soaking fluid, well you ask 100 guys and you'll end up getting 95 different answeres. I think the key is patience and alot of time.
redforlife
Well-known Member
put some lubricant of your choice on the portion of stud bolt that is exposed. put nuts back on stud bolts but don't screw em clear down to the head. wake em a little bit from different directions with a hammer hitting only the nuts. remove nuts. continue moving the side that will move. up down, up down. even though it maybe only moving an 1/8 inch, the entire head has to be moving. maybe exstremely slightly on the other side. you might have to repeat this process over and over. letting it soak and give it some time is always a good thing. just don't exspect things to happen all at once.
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