Electrical dither

wilson ind

Well-known Member
Extending wiring in tool shed. Bought 25 feet of wire labeled 14/2 with GROUND. NOW what to do about neutral????????????????? Plan on Black wire for 120 volt, white to Whatever it's called!!!!!!!
 
14/2 with ground should be 3 wires white black and bare copper. probably should be using outdoor rated 12/2 with ground for a shed.( your milage may vary).
 
I"m gonna GUESS you are playing with 240 Volts and don"t have enough conductors in the wire?

Or????
 
No, just want one light bulb and possible drop cord very seldom. Not sure what to consider white and bare copper as on the outer cover of the wire its labled 14/2 with GROUND.I thought after trying to understand past post on electricity the outer cover would be 14/2 with neutral!!
 
White to neutral
Bare wire to ground
Use 15 Amp breaker to supply it
Should be GFCI

There you go.
 
Ozlander:

You can if you want to; but as the OP stated, it's a
14/2 with ground - fine for 120 VAC, but I would
never consider putting 240 VAC on that kind of line.
 
Bill,
Sounds like you may need to call the law firm of DOWEE, Cheatam, and How. You may have gotten some bad wire. Or call 1-800-BAD-WIRE for your part of a class action settlement.
George
 
Nothing wrong about label of 14-2/wG (110v only)
The two: Black is hot carrier,
White is the neutral,
Green is the ground.
Hopefully, not running 220v. that would put current on the green.
If it's going in the ground, it needs to be
labeled 'uf'..
 
There would be absolutely nothing wrong with using 14-2 wg for 220v, as long as it's protected by a 15a breaker. The new submersible pump I put in last week only draws 5a on 220v. The whole reason for going to higher voltage is to reduce wire size.
 
That's a very basic question to be asking. Most stores sell electrical wire also sell thin paperback books that explain basic wiring to meet national codes. They used to be about 50 pages thick, are easy to understand with lots of diagrams, and they sell for under $10. If one of those doesn't clearly answer your question, bite the bullet and hire a professional.

Do you need to add extra circuit breakers?
 
P.S. Knight and co have written and sold electrical code books for many years. Easy to read and you'll be confident that your doing things right. Also a good thing to have around when the "safety nazi's" drop in for a visit too.
 

No green wire in 14/2.

And sure you can run 220v on it. INsulation is rated at 600 volts or better. Just use a 15 amp breaker.

You will need 14/3 if your service has seperate ground and neutral.
 

Wrong place to try and save some money. Why are there skilled trades persons called electricians? Because there are rules and regulation to follow and trade knowledge to have.
Why people expect engineers that design bridges, dentists , lawyers, drivers etc to be qualified. Yet they think anybody can ask a couple of questions on the internet and perform a hazardous task?
Ask any electrician about the handy man wiring jobs they have found.
 
(quoted from post at 00:36:56 07/19/14) Yowch, I certainly wouldn't want to put 240 VAC on a 14 Gauge wire. Can you say POOF !

:>(

Funny, I've run a lot of 14 on 460 V circuits and they don't go poof.....
 
The basic techniqwue would be turn OFF all power.
The black hot wire goes to the circuit breaker, which is then snapped into place.
The white wire goes to the neutral bus.
The bare ground goes to a ground bus,OR it can go to the same neutral bus, where it is all connected onto the same bus and the big bare No. 6 bare copper ground wire carries all the neutral current, and maybe the fault ground current down to the 8' driven ground rod.
Make sure you use a GFCI - protected circuit breaker, it'll protect you. I run all my barn circuits, welder circuit, lights, grinders, drills, saws, etc. off GFCI protected corcuits. Works great.
 
120 volts requires two wires - not one. Hot leg (black or red) and a neutral (white). Ground can be the bare wire or green. If you're extending 240 volts - for most apps - you need three insulated wires. If you're "cheating" and using two insulated and a bare ground - mark the white wire with black or red tap to indicated it is a hot wire and not a neutral carrier. Why 14 gauge wire? Is this only a 15 amp circuit?
 
Hey neighbor, 14/2 with Ground has THREE WIRES.

Black is the UnGrounded (HOT) conductor

White is the Grounded (Neutral) conductor

Bare/Green is the Equipment GroundING conductor

Its 120 VAC from the UnGrounded (Hot) conductor
over to the Grounded (Neutral) conductor, that's
what powers your load. The Equipment GroundING
conductor (bare/Green) is there to provide a
dedicated low resistance return current path for
FAULT CURRENT ONLY, while normal return current
is carried by the Grounded Neutral conductor.

For a 120 volt single phase branch circuit THOSE THREE WIRES ARE ALL YOU NEED. Since its 14 gauge wire, you would want to use a 15 amp overcurrent protection device and any max continuous loads shouldnt exceed 12 amps.

Got it?? Any questions??

John T
 
Here's a bit of information for yall:


"The bare ground goes to a ground bus, OR it can go to the same neutral bus"

1) If its the initial main service entrance distribution panel, the Neutral Buss and Equipment Ground Buss are connected together on some panels, while on others there may be only one single common buss to which BOTH Neutrals and Grounds are wired.

2) HOWEVER if its a sub panel fed from the main panel above, the Neutral Buss and Equipment Ground Busses are separate (NOT tied together) and electrically isolated from each other in which case Equipment GroundING conductors (bare/green) are wired to the Ground Buss while the White Neutrals are connected to the Neutral Buss.

" and the big bare No. 6 bare copper ground wire carries all the neutral current, and maybe the fault ground current down to the 8' driven ground rod."

What you refer to as "the big bare No 6 copper ground wire" is actually the "Grounding Electrode Conductor" which leads to a "Grounding Electrode" (may be driven into earth copper rod or rods or other suitable electrodes).

IT DOES NOTTTTTTTTT CARRY ALL THE NEUTRAL CURRENT, (usually it carries NO current) the Neutral current is carried from the panel out to the utility transformer by the Neutral (aerial drop or buried) Conductor.


Hope this helps.

John T, Retired Electrical Distribution Design Engineer
 
I OFFER A CORRECTION with all due respect, I'm here to help not fight or argue remember.

14/2 with Ground is NOT for 110 v ONLY!!!!!!!!

Many many 240 volt ONLY single phase loads are served with 14/2 with ground wire. PROVIDED THAT theres no 120 volt use (and the max continuous current doesn't exceed 12 amps), Hey, there are a ton of 240 volt single phase motors out there ya know. In such a case, the 240 volt single phase is carried by the two insulated wires, while the bare or green serves as the Equipment GroundING Conductor.

Hope this helps

John T, Retired Electrical Distribution Design Engineer
 
"Yowch, I certainly wouldn't want to put 240 VAC on a 14 Gauge wire. Can you say POOF "

With all due respect to help NOT argue

Theres NO problem and its perfectly NEC permissible to put 240 VAC on 14 gauge wire provided its:

1) Rated for over 240 volts (could be 600 volt rated ya know)

2) Its protected by a 15 amp overcurrent protection device

3) The maximum continuous load does not exceed 12 amps

Over 40 years as an electrical engineer I probably specified well over a thousand branch circuits for motors or other small 240 volt loads that didn't exceed 12 amps using 14 gauge wire. And allllllllll were approved by NEC and other safety inspectors.

Hope this helps

John T Retired Electrical Distribution design Engineer
 
With all due respect, Im here to help not argue:

"but I would never consider putting 240 VAC on that kind of line."

That wire could be rated for 600 VAC so theres no problem is using 240 volts as long as the voltage withstand rating exceeds 240. Over many years as a design engineer I specified over a thousand 240 VAC 15 amp branch circuits using 14 gauge wire and all were approved by the NEC as well as local electrical inspectors.

John T Retired Electrical Distribution Design Engineer
 
Told ya so lol. How many times have I posted that when even a simple simple electrical question is posed, everyone and their brother in law and Billy Bob and Bubba (and yes me lol) crawl out of the woodwork with opinions, some of which are technically accurate, while others can be DEAD wrong (as some are below). But thats why I love it here, there are many kind gents who are just willing and try to help and God Bless them for that. HOWEVER when life safety may be at stake, consult trained professional help NOT lay opinions, and DO NOT take my word for it, consult the NEC and local utility and authority.

DISCLAIMER the above is only an opinion, albeit a professional one, and it may be right and it may be wrong, I'm NOT saying, so NO WARRANTY. Its worth what was paid NOTHING so take or leave it as you please and no whining lol

John T Retired Electrical Engineer
 
See John. This is why I stay out of questions like this. After 40 years in the power field. I got tired of trying to explain the proper. Electrical hook up. To people with the deer in the headlight look.
 
Yep lol I can be your attorney AND your friendly electrical engineer neighbor. See you at Elnora

John T
 
(reply to post at 05:39:17 07/19/14)
Ground wire goes to it's own ground bus bar.
In remote panels the neutral bar floats free of ground unless that darned fool triplex is used for a supply.
1st Panel, main panel or primary service should be the only place where a ground bond to neutral is supposed to hold neutral to earth potential. And keep 120V lines from exceeding more than 120V to earth.
 
I suspect us common folk are used to running 240 feed wire, or 30-50 amp welder or drier cord, so our brain fogs out on the 240 only, and lower amp needs of some less common applications.

Paul
 
Your in trouble already by purchasing wire that [ and maybe you do] know the breaker size you are using for that circuit. White to white -Black to black..
 

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