Farmall C snow plow

I finally got enough snow to test my redneck snow plow out. I couldn't ask for a better design. I have a 7 ft back blade on Jubilee. Have to chain up. Have a slag pipe on back blade. It will still remove rocks from drive. I have used a blade on front loader, same problem, remove grave. No blade can do what this blade can. I can push snow off gravel on to the grass, without disturbing a rock or a blade of grass. This blade is connected to a 6 ft woods belly mower. The mower deck is designed to follow the couture of yard. The snow blade does the same. It's light enough not to dig in, floats.

The other thing I like, no chains required, no ballast in tires, only 4 bolts to install. Some day I may use materials other than wood and 4 inch pvc. You can't beat the design. No front blade or back blade can float, one corner will dig in if ground isn't prefectly level.

I'm working on a design to make a back blade float. The design is still floating around in my head. That's project for another day.

So far, this is the best snow plow yet. AND I WON'T HAVE ROCKS TO REMOVE FROM THE YARD COME SPRING.

I also discovered you can start a Farmall c using 12v 235 cca lawn mower battery and not slam the 6 v starter.

Good looking redneck plow you got there.

Seen a picture where someone placed a 2" or so pipe on a blade to prevent collecting rocks.

Looks like it will work just fine. You have it cross braced real well. Hope you don't have to use it much--ha, ha.

Glad it works for ya!That would never work here in the North-East with our frozen snow banks 4-5 feet high.
We drive over the first 2 or 3" to form a base, add a little sand/salt if needed. never have a problem with stone or dirt.
I live on a high hill and use a V plow and loader.The chains will stay on both tractors till after mud season.

Geo th,

That's a fine way to remove snow!

Don't hurt like a shovel either. I wouldn't try to improve it too much. Looks like it does the job.

D.

Actually the cross bracing is because I had made this blade to slide in front bucket of Terramite. Terramite was out of commission, having hyd cylinder rebuilt, so I adapted this blade to farmall. Works better on farmall than front loader.

Hoping to find better materials than wood to make second generation blade. But want to keep it light.

Well I glad I don't live where there is 6 ft of frozen snow. I can't see how you would plow that much, you need some place to push it too.

Most of my snows are 4-6 inches. Rarely do I get 8-10 inches. Some winters we don't even get snow, tractors sit.

This was the first good snow of the winter.

So, blowers and V shaped blades wouldn't do me much good.

I agree with you Jim, here that would not last 10 min but I am glad others get a nice soft snow to deal with,, I have had to move 10' or more of hard packed snow after storms,, a few inches at a time would be sweet to deal with, good job on the building of it, I always say work with what you have
cnt

Would never work here in northwest Ohio

Necessity is the mother of invention. What did you invent to remove snow?

I have the factory front mount Dearborn blade Dad purchased in about 1950 and the first winter was used in the town to plow the downtown sidewalks. Hasen't been on for a few years now. The neighbor and renter of the ground comes in with his big 150+ HP 4 wheel drive John Deere with a double auger 8' wide snow blower and the snow has been deep enough in drive that I have seen him set and spin all 4 wheels trying to push into it. Had to many a time shovel a path so we could get thru with a tractor and hook one to front corner of blade to assist tractor with blade to get snow plowed back enough for a car to get thru. Later had a larger tractor with a 7' wide snow bucket on loader and many a timw would have to haul each loader bucket full of snow 500' or more to find a place to dump it. And with that front blade the snow would roll back under the tractor till the belly of the tractor was in the snow. With like your setup the mower itself would be acting like a second blade to push snow. Many a time snow was 3' deep in drive.

You can make a rear blade float if it is 3 point mounted, Just use a chain in place. of a top link

How would a chain prevent a corner from digging in? From removing rock? Mine floats up and down and no corner can dig in.

Slept on your chain idea over night. Woke up with a simple, easy to make, design to allow rear blade float. I may even try your chain idea too.

I think many people didn't get where I posted my wooded snow blade is just a design idea that floats and doesn't remove gravel or disturb lawn. I plan to make something stronger when I find the right materials to build it.

I like it. Often times we over engineer when it is unnecessary. The total cost here is minimal. If long runs are not part of your plan, then a squared off blade is fine. I used a box blade and it was difficult not to clear the gravel. The first time I used my new blade, I took off gravel 1 inch deep. I can easily see the genius in your design!

Aaron

I have no problem with a straight blade. I actually prefer a straight blade on a small lightweight tractor without chains. You simply adjust your clearing pattern to a series of Y patterns or herring bone fish patterns to do the work. Not necessarily how I would want to clear a long lane or road but sometimes you do what you gotta do.

Angled blades on lightweight tractors without chains and you can get pushed everywhere without control unless you opt for extreme speed and then you break stuff when you hit something hidden.

I guess my biggest concern in your design is the blade pushing on the side mower deck only as the main anchor point? I would be concernced with bending my mower deck or deck hanger brackets. I actually do not mind the wood fabrication at all, I just do not like where it is anchored.

Your idea looks good but I also would be conserned about damage to the mower mounting brackets. I had a similar idea but used iron.
I do understand the need to not push gravel into the lawn or damage the sod. I also see from these posts, the differences in other parts of the country having varying climate conditions. Here, many people pushing snow, even with a pickup truck, let the first snowfall (hopefully only an inch or two) pack down without plowing to cover any gravel that might get pushed into the yard, and with colder temps we have, the lawn freezes letting a heavier blade float over the grass or covered gravel without digging in. First year, I kept everything clear and when spring finally came I too had gravel in the grass -didn't do that again! Also found that I should plan ahead to allow for additional room to plush upcoming snowfalls. Made that mistake as well.
This is my snow pushing rig, 1951 Farmall SC with chains, two sets of weights. I will push snow as high as the hood and many times even push the pile back further if needed. Walks right through 16" snow and keeps going. This setup is heavy but easy to mount with two bolts and does float. I had a homemade blade made from a large tank with channel iron bolted to the bottom edge but replaced it with a 7ft pickup blade. This year only used the tractor once- not much snow. Last weeks 4" snow was just packed down with the car due to the exceedingly cold temps, couldn't bring myself to go out. I keep telling myself, I will mount one of the two heat-housers I've got on the SC for next year but it seems to get postponed each year. I've used this every year since 1980 with no problems, tho I did try a loader on this tractor one year but found it too slow.
I have a larger Farmall 756 with a 7ft snow bucket that just sets under cover in the barn that has only seen about 1 hour use since 2003 when I purchased it. Still not as fast as the SC with the blade.
Once I used the SC to push 14" snow off my twp road 3/4 mile to the tar cnty road. That was when the county would take 2-3 days to get here to plow. Only made a path to get through and took a few hours- but thats another story.
Hope my pics give you some ideas.

Nice to see your creativity in your build!