Bad day mowing broke pto off

I think the drawbar distance to the hitch was wrong and a sharp turn snapped the bolts off. Three are going to need to be extracted. Any ideas for putting it back together and how to figure out correct distance?

Also can I reuse the shaft a and just buy the coupler?

I'm mowing with a 14 foot cutter and a deere 4010

Industry standard for 540 pto is 14" from end of pto stub shaft to drawbar pin hole.

The bolts will come right out. Use a small punch ground at a 45 degree angle to nip into the bolts so the punch edge forces it to turn CCW tap lightly and they will unscrew. Jim

Do not be surprised if when you reinstall the rear shaft your tractor pto no longer works. When the rear stub broke off it more than likely let the pin inside on the pto drive gear shear off.You should have a new rear stub shaft as your pic shows that the drive pins came out of yours. The bolts hold the shaft on but those two pins are what drives the shaft and if worn enough they will break off the bolts.Tom

Think I should buy this? Are the pins supposed to be welded? Thanks

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JOHN-DEERE-10-SERIES-PTO-STUB-SHAFT-item-3563-/281754265471?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4199dce77f

The drawbar is from a different tractor. I had to drill a hole to get the pto connected and it was a chore. Time to find a real 10 series drawbar

Thanks

Or try to drill them out with LEFT HAND drill.

Why do you think you need a new PTO stub, is it visibly bent or are the dowel holes wallowed out?

The dowels are part #R27315, about $7 each at DEERE.

The four bolts are #19H2552, which are 1-1/8" long 3/8" NC bolts, Grade 8.

Any remnants of the old bolt heads... check and see what grade they were... the whole problem MAY have been caused by running with weak bolts, or with the bolts working loose.

I almost thought that was a Ford-NH tractor from the looks of the pto. My cousins is the same style on their's.

The 4010's were bad for doing that on the pto. Years ago when I had a good 4010 using anything heavy on the pto like a brush hog or baler you had to stop and check those bolts because they would back off. I finial got to the point I didn't use the tractor for any pto work. I think I tried everything to keep it tight even lock-tight and nothing would hold it. It's just one of those things about the 10 series that was weak. By the looks of the stub shaft I would take it to a machine shop and have the back side check and maybe resurfaced to make sure it's true. Bandit

It looks like you have a 3 u-joint PTO shaft. Ideally the hitch pin should be half way between the front two u-joints so both front u-joints flex at the same angle during turns to balance out vibrations. Tight turns under a heavy load are hard on u-joints.

OT: That inside wheel weight looks heavy.

Well you need the correct drawbar to start with. I see it hanging down with the weight of the mower on it. You can buy a NEW straight one for JD through A&I for right around $175.

Now your PTO issue. The fellows have it covered pretty well. You need the drive pins and new CORRECT bolts. Guys lose the bolts and use grade five or softer bolts and they break. Use grade eight OEM bolts and check them often when doing heavy PTO work. I hope that the internal shift pin is not damaged. It can happen when the stub shaft comes off.

The guys are also correct that the standard 540 setting is 14 inches from the end of the shaft to the center of the drawbar hole.

Thanks JD, was this tractor originally equipped with a straight drawbar? Most I see have a drop of 2 inches or so.

No they came with the drop drawbar and it was a PAIN. With it in the dropped position it was too low and in the Up position it would interfere with anything PTO ran. So the after market fellows offered a straight drawbar and it is ten time more handy.

JD tractors such as your 4010 normally have the drawbar with the offset in it. When reattaching stub shaft be sure to slightly rotate pto shaft while tightening bolts so 540 rpm drive gears can be engaged. I recommend using loctite on the bolt threads.

I agree that it's possible the tiny shift pin got bent or broken when stub shaft can loose. I hope pin didn't bend or break as repair requires a tractor split.

Dad had a 4010-D WFE from December 1968 till August 1972. We put it on the Kneodler PTO burr mill feed grinder for 4-5 minutes once. Exhaust fumes gassed us out of the corn crib. Because the 4010 was the only tractor we had with LPTO it ran the #30 combine over 30-40 acres of oats every summer. Otherwise we never used the PTO. I normally shoved the PTO lever forward into engagement just to get it out of my way.

Dad had grade 8 bolts, special lock washers, and red LockTight on the stub shaft bolts. He checked them every load when running the combine. Summer of '72 he was using the 4010 on the Billion 6 ft bush hog to mow waterways, fence lines, etc. One day he was sailing down a slough in 3 ft tall grass and twisted the output shaft off flush with the oil seal on the bush hog. That was expensive! Couple days later he knocked the PTO clutch out in the 4010. The speed change gears were fine. He ran the tractor over to the independent shop 20 miles away that had been working on the big repairs on the tractor the last 2 years. Dad let the shop owner know he didn't want/need the tractor back. The owners were selling the farm in a couple days at auction. The shop owner sold the tractor right out of his shop. The tractor had got new M&W sleeves & pistons 6 months earlier to replace the 4020 kit that was in the 5 year old tractor when we bought it, rebuilt head, injection pump tune up. The kid that bought it put an M&W turbo on it before it left the shop. About May/June the following spring the kid stopped in on a Sunday afternoon unannounced and wanted Dad to pickup the cost of the failed transmission/rear end on a ten year old tractor he bought used, as is, where is.

I hope that tractor was scrapped and sent to China to be made into something useful like staple removers. It sure was worthless as a tractor!

FWIW, I pulled that bush hog over thousands of acres with a FARMALL Super H. Never a problem except for the cheap shear pins Dad bought. Part of the reason he sheared the shaft on the hog was because he was using grade #5 or #8 bolts as shear pins. I got some cheap grade 1 or 2 bolts to use. They would deform to the point of failing just clipping pasture for 3-4 hours.