Draining gas ......or not

Tom R.S.

Member
I have a hand full of tractors that don't get used much. A trip up the road or in a parade a few times a year.
So I don't turn over the gas much.
I've heard its best to keep the tanks full of gas to avoid the moisture issue in the tanks. But that means in my case this gas gets old. I've used Stable and I've had no issues.
But this fall I have tanks that are near empty.
Do I drain the tanks and leave them empty or do I fill them and then treat the gas to keep it from going bad?
I do run my tractors once or twice during the winter.
 
Drain the tank and leave the carb drain open so condensation won't pool up in your carb. You have a fair amount of money sitting in those gas tanks if you fill all of them up. Now if I would only practice what I preach!!! LOL
 
Because you like to run them a few times in the winter, which I think is a very good idea, I would go with filling them and adding the Stabil. From what I understand, the Stabil works by forming a protective layer on top of the fuel preventing evaporation. It's the evaporation that causes the fuel to go rancid.

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The only way draining is practical is for long term storage. There is more to it than just draining. In order for draining to be effective, the tank would need to be completely dry. Mopped, blown, and free of any residue, something more applicable for climate controlled, museum type storage.
 
I can't figure out why one of us hasn't capitalized on this delemma. Someone should invent an aerosol can that has a sprinkler top. You turn it upside down and put it in the fill hole and it would spray an oil that would coat the tank and run down to keep it from rusting. Any penetrating oil or a little diesel would dilute out enough when you filled it up in the spring. I use fogging oil in small engines I store for a long time. If it truly "fogged" out of the nozzle I would recommend spraying in a bunch and quickly closing the fuel cap. It really just comes out like WD-40.
 
I never had Stabil work for me. I found something about 4 generations newer and better called Ethanol Shield available at Tractor Supply and Menards and others. They have a sister product called Mechanic In A Bottle that really works cleaning up carbs, even if the equipment will not start. Little skinny 4 OZ bottles.
 
As long as you shut off the gas to the carburetor you should have no problems. Most problems arise in gravity feed systems from gas flowing into the carb and evaporating.
 
My tractors sit all winter with anywhere from almost empty to almost full fuel tanks. They don't get run much in the summer either. I used to use Stabil but never was really happy with it. A friend of mine told me to try a Primrose product called Protect-O-Lube. I have been using that for about eight years and I am very satisfied with it. After sitting for months the tractors start up like they had been run yesterday. This week I fired up an Oliver 80 that hasn't been run in five years. Took seven pulls on the crank and it was running good and smooth. I would never go back to Stabil.
 
I have two generators that don't get used much. I just drained the tanks, put new gas plus stabil. I never drain carbs.
 
There is something for boats. They remove plugs and spray the cylinders. Not sure, thinking it's sea foam makes it.
 
I don't use Stabil any more. After about a year the Stabil treat gas smelts old. I started using a product from Briggs & Stratton that the fuel can be stored up to three years. I use it in all my power equipment and tractors. I do have fuel shut offs on all the large equipment and run engine dry when storing for over winter or long periods of time.
 
It was suggested to me to use the Blue "marine" stabil as opposed to the Pink small engine stuff and it has worked well for me. Lawnmower, tractors snowblower etc. If we have the option we do shut the gas off and run them out when we store them.
 
It impossible to totally drain a carb unless there is a bowl drain on it. I do not know if it is worse to leave them full, or with a little in them.
 
My carbs have a drain plug. I also run generators to make sure new fuel is in carb and generators are good
To go for winter.
 

I would either leave them completely FULL, or run them completely DRY and even then, I would use a good shot of Stabil before I ran them dry...

Take your choice...

Ron.
 
(quoted from post at 21:08:16 11/06/15) I can't figure out why one of us hasn't capitalized on this delemma. Someone should invent an aerosol can that has a sprinkler top. You turn it upside down and put it in the fill hole and it would spray an oil that would coat the tank and run down to keep it from rusting. Any penetrating oil or a little diesel would dilute out enough when you filled it up in the spring. I use fogging oil in small engines I store for a long time. If it truly "fogged" out of the nozzle I would recommend spraying in a bunch and quickly closing the fuel cap. It really just comes out like WD-40.
There is a product called VCI Oil, "vapor corrosion inhibitor" oil. Major manufacturers use it in new engines and fuel tanks to protect the vapor space of equipment in storage. CAT only sells it in 5 gallon containers. I thought about packaging it in one engine sizes for combines, antique cars, antique tractors, boats, etc. with long storage times. I never got around to marketing it, but it puts a one molecule layer on all exposed surfaces in the vapor space. The only downside is that you have to seal all openings up with a good tape or something else which to keep the vaporizing corrosion inhibitor in the engine until it can cat the surfaces. They also sell spark plug replacements which have the same material in them to protect the combustion chambers and valves.
 

I have 3 gas tractors and just close the gas line valves , never had a problem starting them yet . But this year I'll be putting stabalizer in the lawn mowers and quad runner because for some reason or other those small carbs gum up bad . --maybe the gas is refined different ?

Larry -ont.
 
Most small engine carbs have one bolt holding the carb bowl in place. Just loosen that bolt and it will drain the carb. My generators are honda clones, 3500w RV champions. RV gennerators put the 3500 watts in one 120v place. Both mine have drain bolts.
 

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