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Paralyzed Tahoe.

G

GordoSD

Well-known Member
Chevy Tahoe 5.7. Started it this morning in 40 degree heated shop . Fired and ran instantly. Slipped tranny into reverse to back out of garage and it didn't move. No increase of engine RPM, (tach) with repeated gas pedal inputs. Popped the hood and pulled both braided cable to the TBS and no engine response,
Engine idling perfect. "Check gauges light" on inst cluster. Why wouldn't it back out good idle?
Shut engine off with ignition switch. On restart attempt engine kinda backfired, kicked back, coughed, fired up, ran rough for 5 seconds then ran smooth as normal. Normal throttle response. Drove out and to town and back 4 starts and stops all normal.
What happened?
 
Musta had the hiccups! :)

My truck did something like that the other day, but mine is Throttle Body 1995, what year is it? Dad says "that just happens" every once in awhile on the Throttle Body trucks. Moms 1999 Tahoe never misses a beat.

For those that don't know, my dad Barry is the lead technician at the local Chevy Dealer, and has been for 30 years! ;)
 
It's a 99. 180k on the clock. I have only owned it 10 years. Only repairs, major TU at 100K, Monroe load leverlers at 125K brakes at 150 k, Muffler at 175 K, Windshield at 175K (pitted) new headlights (pitted) and bulbs at 175K Battery in 2009.
I found a 99 with 132k on the clock for 3500 a steal? I won't consider a 5.3
 
I wouldn't be surprised if it's a electronic problem. My 08 Ford edge would not shift out of low. I had it towed to a tranny shop. The guy called me later and said there is nothing wrong with your transmission. Come to find out this is a problem with some Ford Edges. All I needed to do was turn the key off and on. That reset the computer, and everything was good. The car has done that at least 8 times since. Stan
 
Our Ford 500 with the CVT does that if we leave it outside overnite in the wintertime. Doesn't do it if we park in the garage.
 
We've got a '98 Suburban with the 5.7. Thankfully it hasn't had any engine related issues. On the other hand the transmission has begun a hard shift into 2nd and 3rd gear. This is supposed to be due to a sticking solenoid valve, but all of them have been changed and the problem still happens. No codes but one showing that it is shifting hard....

Got an '87 F150 with issues also. It has fuel pressure, fire, and shows no codes, but will not start. It was running until I took my foot off the gas and began to downshift to make a turn. It's been sitting on my trailer every since. No idea what the problem is or where to even begin to look as everything I have tried so far has been a dead end.

My solution to all of the electronic/computer BS......I'm getting ready to get a '78 Ford pickup from my Dad that doesn't have all of the crap on it. IF it should happen to break down, it can be fixed with common parts, and common sense.....and for a lot less money than either of the other two.....As soon as funds are available I'm going to find a classic car for the wife and fix it up. Once again, no electronics, no major problems that can't be easily fixed.
 


Shop foreman of the place I go to, said to turn the key on then wait until some of the lights on the dash go out, then start it. That lets the computer read all the sensors before cranking. I haven't had any trouble since.
 
You are on my page now Wayne. I have bought the last car or truck that when I lift the hood I better see motor and not a bunch of plastic and hoses!
 
What year? Obviously, pre "fly by wire" if it has a throttle cable and a cruise control cable.

So how could the 'puter keep the engine from accelerating, if the throttle butterfly is being mechanically opened?

Retarding the timing, limiting fuel injector pulse width, or opening the EGR would be possibilities. But you said it idled good, and it wouldn't do that with the EGR open.

I wonder if it could be a fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator issue, and it simply wasn't getting enough fuel to accelerate?
 
I had a F 150 with the inline 6 that would shear the pin on the distributor drive gear and leave me stranded.88 I believe. Had fire but the distributor wasn't turning. Did it three times and the garage did not fix it right the first two times, I drilled it out and put in a smidge large pin and then traded it off a year later.
 
(quoted from post at 20:16:57 I won't consider a 5.3
Click to expand...

I own a '99 1500 pickup 4X4 with a 5.3 I bought used with 80,000 that now has 150,000 miles on it that been a good vehicle. I know one thing the intake manifold doesn't weigh much.
 
I had an 88 that did same thing. Had an excellent mechanic give us tips to
what might be wrong,bypassed harness with jumpers so we knew what was getting
power. Couldn't get it to start so took it to same mechanic. He found a small
black wire that was by itself from engine to ground. It had broken(corroded)
and shut the truck off just as you described. I didn't ask him where on engine
wire is located so can't tell you where to look. 88 w/4.9 and 5 speed.
 
From my research it looks like the 5.3 has gone through a lot of changes. Early ones were all cast iron, then aluminum heads then all aluminum block, Somewhere along the line they went to the variable cam. I know someone that has an early one with 275000 trouble free miles pulling a travel trailer all over. I would not trust the later ones.
 
Had a 2002 F250 that, as I was driving along on cruise control, I looked at the gauges and they were all dead. Pulled over and stopped to turn around to go back to town and it wouldn't move above an idle. Eventually, I found a fuse that was blown, replaced it and headed back to town on cruise control and made it to the Ford garage. Turned out to be a hole rubbed in the wiring harness where it crossed over the steering column.
 
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