defective sleeves

I just had a bad experience with my IH 756 gas. The engine was rebuilt by a reliable mechanic in April of 2014. An overhaul kit was used, new pistons and sleeves, etc. The tractor has been used only lightly (no plowing, mostly moving round bales and blowing snow) and has had regular oil changes. It has never gotten hot. A week ago I took it over to the mechanic to have some other work done on it. When he was testing it, something went wrong with the engine. When he opened it up, one sleeve had disintegrated, and a couple other sleeves had cracks. The bearings were all fine, so there was no evidence of an oil issue. The mechanic thinks there must have been defect in the materials.
Has anyone else ran into a problem like this? and if so, what was the cause?

If I am not mistaken I think that those sleeves were of the narrow top flange and that they might have been put in to loose. The head gasket will not hold the narrow flange sleeve down like the wide flange sleeve. The narrow flange sleeve has to be installed with a cetain amount of pressure and then piston fitted accordingly. I did run into a 766 gas that had the same thing happen but it siezed up and eventually broke the block. Just my 2 cents.

Jay there is a ih service bulletin but more than likely the other poster is correct your guy used the wrong head gasket for your sleeve. Have to check the serial number of the engine. Been a long time ago but pretty sure that was the case.

Also, 756 is a C-291 and indeed uses a heavy press fit sleeve. Like other poster said, the head gasket does not contact the sleeve to hold it in place. Also, and extremely important, when the sleeve is installed it MUST not be bottomed out in the flange groove in block. There is a special tool used to stop the sleeve flange from contacting the bottom of the groove. If that sleeve is pressed in until it bottoms out it very likely will crack and then come apart. This is the same situation that takes place in the D-361 and 407 engines. However, you have to be even more careful about the piston clearance after installation than you do with the lighter pressed sleeves.

well he may vary well be a good wrench , BUT like anything You can not be the expert on them unless you only work on them all the time . Those sleeves are NOT a hand fit or hand press in they have to press in with and exact fit . Now when this is done wright and everything goes wright , then you FIT each piston to the HOLE . The pistons ARE NOT all the same size . Also you must check for wrinkling of the sleeve . So yo had best have a really good bore gauge and use it along with a good set of mic.s and a ridged hone to make things JUST WRIGHT . Next on the C291 engine is ing timing . Timing has to be set at (OH WOW brain went dead here ) it is either 18 or 19 degrees BEFORE TDC at full throttle . I am not running out to the truck to look at the books in my slippers . Must have been tomuch C/R lastnight . Anyway the next thing is you HAVE to run a min. of 93 octane gas in them . Now that has become a problem now as we now can not get 93 and best we get now is 90 and once again i now have two 706's down with C291's with toasted pistons . No we have not plowed - disced - Chopped - or even ground feed with them Yes one was used to pull a load of silage out of the field and down the road , no that tractor should have never been hooked to the silage wagon going down our back roads because even the 1066 can be brought her knees pullen a full wagon . But back to your problem If your wrench does not have the OTC hyd sleeve remover installer then i can only guess on how he installed them can he vary well could have cracked them as he was putting them in . SOOOOOOOOO since you are going to have to do this all over again , the way i remove them is with a BORING bar till they are paper thin and peal them out . Then you had best put the inside mic.'s to the block and see what your working with . If it is on the vary loose side then Huston you have a problem and you will never hold a sleeve If you are CHEAP and running the cheapest gas you can find then you will not hold a sleeve or pistons in it . These pistons that we now get are not Forged Pistons like what came in that engine when it was new , what they use now are CHEAP CLEVITE CAST pistons and they swell big time when they get hot , they can not transfer the heat from the top down to the skirt and side of the piston to the cylinder walls and to the water jacket . Now If the block checks out good for a good tight fit then here is a way to install the sleeves . Warm up the block to like 180-200 degrees place the sleeves in a freezer overnight along with two pair of pliers . Place the block close to the freezer and keep it warm . You have to be fast and have a good oak 4x4 and a dead blow mallet ready . JUST INCASE . They should go in fast and set . Once you have them in and everything has cooled down to room tep then ya start checking the bores again with the bore gauge and inside mic.'s then ya mic. each piston and start fitting . You want NO LESS the .004 SKIRT TO WALL clearance . it is like building a performance engine where everything is done wright and fits . we would not be having problems if we had the gas to run them on . No 87 octane gas was not what they ran on when new it was between 93- and 95 octane just like the cars and pickups of the day . Gas back in the early 60-75was at most station a min. of 95 for reg gas and 105+ on the hightest . Yes you can run you old H and M on 87 and not have tomuch problems because they are a SLOW turn engine when you get up to the 460-560 you can still squeeek by but they do better on the 89 . Now if that 560 has been up graded to the 706 engine then your going to have problems . Same hold true with the oil ya need a LOW ASH OIL . Once i learned that valve problems went away , shot myself in the foot with that as valve jobs put food on my table . When ya got the guys to switch oil they saved money on repairs and cut me out on the repairs.

Not that I do not learn from the others but when you or Tim S from the John Deere board check in you guys make me realize how much there is to learn on some of these tractors.

Haw , i am still learning as there is something new each day . And the day you stop learning you have dirt in your face . I try and apply what i have learned over the years from making shell we say SPARE parts some times from unintentional reasons and then the days of building and engine just to see how far it will go before it goes yuck yucko then sifting thru the pieces to see what let go first , then figure out a way to fix the weak link . When it comes to the 706 i have had every nut and bolt out of them over the years . Plus between myself and a couple other guys i use to run with i am suprised that there are any 706 gasser left in IN. or Ill. as we bought a bunch of them , from dead row finds to good off the farm ones . I bought a bunch out of the dead rows and brought them back to life and sold them just about as fast as i could get them in and out of the shop . Most of them got FIELD tested before they were sold and i put a warranty on them , Never had one come back for warranty and if it did come back it was in service for two three years or better. Ya learn from talking to the OLD guys as i would talk to the OLD guys and find things out that i did not have and answer for . Just like the valve problems on the newer gas engines weather it was a 4 cyclinder or a six . I would say i have a MASTERS degree and working on the PHd on 706's . just like this problem with the pistons , two ways to solve it (1) 93 or better REAL GAS (2) forged pistons that don't break the bank Then you could do what ever you wanted with it have no problems . Myself and two of my close friends use to pulol 4x16's with them doing all the plowing on three farms , yea i know we only plowed up to two hundred acres between the three of us a year but we hand no problems None do a tune up once a year do reg oil changes with the low ash Case I H oil and run them hard. They were cheap horse power and the wright size tractor for a smaller farm that would start in any weather with a good battery . Had the power to run the grinder mixer do the plowing run the chopper . Now we have trouble just running the haybine with out melting one down .

early 560 diesels liked to brake sleeves to, same problem

Another factor to the tightness of the sleeve to the block is heat transfer. A sleeve that is not really tight to the bore will not transfer heat away from the sleeve and into the water jacket, resulting in early sleeve failure. LocTite makes a sleeve glue that not only holds a sleeve that is not good and tight but also insures good transfer of the heat.

Before i would use guppy goo i will bore the affected hole and install a thin wall repair sleeve then bore it to the correct bore and install the sleeve .

Who designed these engines? Mr. Magoo?

(quoted from post at 10:43:21 01/02/16) Before i would use guppy goo i will bore the affected hole and install a thin wall repair sleeve then bore it to the correct bore and install the sleeve .

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Bein as how Loctite Is a well respected name I would be using their product rather than boring again and getting new sleeves again. Most shops don't need business that bad to run up a bill like that. 14 years and still working great.

well he already sucked one sleeve and heading for two more . And at a 11 dollars a bore i don't thing 22 bucks plus a repair sleeve is out of hand . And when you building and engine it is cheaper to do it wright the first time with no comeback then to EAT a job and have so and so bad mouthen ya . a thousand good jobs not much is said BUT one bad job travels like wild fire . I'll go with doing it wright and use guppy goo where it is needed as there sleeve set really is not for inside and engine , transmission and rear ends yea .