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info needed 8n head bolt or studs

A

ArloInt

Member
Puting my 48 8N together. the shop thinks I should use bolts instead of the studs. 7/16 x 3 inche studs. if I were to go with a bolt what grade would I need to look for and I feel the length would be different. maybe 2 1/2 inches
 
Are the old studs "bad"? (Pitted, stripped, stretched?)

If NOT, there's no need to replace them.

If a couple are in need of replacement, this very site has them for $4.42 each in the "Parts" section.

You can check the archives down at the N-specific Forum linked below, or get a lively discussion going by asking the question again, because when the "bolts or studs" question comes up there's usually some pretty passionate guys on either side of the topic!

Personally, I see NO reason to switch to bolts and believe a good set of studs will do an even better job of keeping the head snugged down than bolts.
A Special Place for Ns
 
They changed to bolts for increased clamping pressure. Stud nuts were torqued to 50-55 ft lbs, the bolts are torqued to 65-70 ft lbs.
 
Sorry, just not true. Yes your torque values look correct, but the bolts are NC thread, and the stud nuts are NF. The end of the stud which goes into the block is NC 7/16 X 14 and the nut is fine thread 7/16 X 20. Using the bolts on the assembly line just cost less and made for faster assembly.

Every N engine I rebuild, gets grade 8 7/16 studs usually found in the Dorman selection, with grade 8 nuts.If a stud becomes firmly stuck in the block sometime in the future, no problem.. .. just use a torch to heat the nut and it comes apart easily without straining the block.

Paul in MN
 
Arlo.........the Ford factory DISCONTINUED studs'n'nuts and recommends BOLTS. Heres the deal, the flathead WARPS and you need to "mill" the head flat. With studs, you'd haffta take yer WHOLE gas tank and sheet metal OFF. With head bolts, you don't haffta pull yer gastank. Milling the head is common automotive machine shop procedure, nothing EXOTIC there. BIG CAUTION: "Q-Tip" yer block corner holes 'cuz they're BLIND and you kenn actually CRACK a corner off'n yer block. The original studs'n'nuts were "grade-4", which doesn't exist today. Me? Grade-5 is plenty strong, but you kenn use grade-8 iff'n you want. Me? I spray some aluminum paint on the head gasket and install wet. Torque in 3-steps to 60-ft/lbs, start in the center of the head. Simple, eh? ........the tite Dell
 
Just a question. I have always been told if bolts have been stretched they should be changed. Messes up the specs. Not that expensive to change them and you are safe from further problems.
 
(quoted from post at 05:27:13 02/26/16) Sorry, just not true. Yes your torque values look correct, but the bolts are NC thread, and the stud nuts are NF. The end of the stud which goes into the block is NC 7/16 X 14 and the nut is fine thread 7/16 X 20. Using the bolts on the assembly line just cost less and made for faster assembly.

Every N engine I rebuild, gets grade 8 7/16 studs usually found in the Dorman selection, with grade 8 nuts.If a stud becomes firmly stuck in the block sometime in the future, no problem.. .. just use a torch to heat the nut and it comes apart easily without straining the block.

Paul in MN
Click to expand...

If that makes you happy and I had a feather up my arse we both would be tickled to death... :D

I have had a original head stud checked for harness I will keep what I found to myself but grade 8 is a overkill big time...

Personally I don't care do what makes you happy... I will take the head bolts hands down over a head-stud on this application any-day...
 
Paul, I agree with you 100%.

We just dealt with a 50's Jeep pickup with a "Hurricane Six" that had bolts in it's flat head, about half of which the owner snapped of in the block before dragging the hulk over to my shop.

I was FUN removing all those!
 
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