Nick167

Member
I bought a oliver 60 twine baler last weekend and got it home yesterday the plunger was stuck on it I got it to move all the way back but it gets about 3/4 the day back to the back of the baler then it hangs up it almost looks like the back of the plunger by the knife is getting caught on the slide any ideas or tips? This is the first baler I've worked on so anything helps thanks
 
If it sat a long time the slides may have rust bubbled up under them, especially if hay was left in the chamber,I would pull the plunger and clean and inspect everything for starters, the problem will most likely be fairly obvious when you can see everything.
 
I assume you are just rolling it over by hand and that is good for starters. Put a gallon of diesel fuel in the hand sprayer and spray everything in and around the chamber. Then see if it goes back farther each time. If nothing is out of place where it is a direct catch, you should be able to eventually get it all the way back. Then hook it to tractor, spray again with diesel and run it. They are a good baler. I stacked thousands of bales behind my uncles 60. Never had any problems.
 
Thanks guys I ended finding a piece from the stationary knife was ripped and bent out 90 degrees I took that out and worked it back and forth by hand and think it's freed up know I need to fix a chain before I turn it any further but do you think it would hurt to run this for the time being with the little piece at the top missing? I plan to replace it but would like to be able to run it a little this year first.
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If you need to replace a chain it is likely out of time. Balers are not too hard to time but you need the book.
 
To emphasize what mjbrown said- BE SURE it is in time before you run it. Otherwise, the first time the knotter trips to make a bale, it will smash the needles and a bunch of other stuff, and you have instant scrap metal. I'll bet someone over on the Oliver board has a book, and would scan or FAX the relevant pages. I have a 720 and a book for it, but I don't think they're the same as far as timing.
 

I don't know the Olivers, but as LAA said some balers will get rust under the bottom riding surface. Last year my MF had rust behind a 3/8 square guide that the plunger knife rides against. I would run it for a little while with the chunk missing. Just put as much edge on it as you can because it will make your bales look funky and connected together. Just make sure that there is not a bulging spacer next to that knife like my MF had.
 
Take your grinder and grind an edge on the broken out place to match the rest of the knife. It will be ok to run it. Worst that will happen is your bales will hang together.
 

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