OT: Harley Question

Steve@Advance

Well-known Member
Working on an 06 Ultra Classic.

It acts lean at idle. Start it up, it tries to idle for a couple seconds, then blubers down and dies. If I keep flipping the throttle I can get it to rev, then tries to run away, up around 2500 RPM, then returns to poor idle and dies, popping fire back through the intake at random. It seems to run OK once past the lean idle condition.

It acts like a vacuum leak, so I tried spraying carb cleaner around the intake gaskets and injectors. At one time I thought it gave some improvement, so I pulled the intake, replaced the gaskets and injector orings. Didn't see anything wrong, made no difference. Also replaced the plugs, just to say I did. I can make it somewhat idle by spraying cleaner into the throttle body, so I'm standing by the lean theory.

I have not checked the fuel pressure because I don't have the special quick coupler adapters needed, a $150 tool. There are no codes present.

My next move is to buy the fuel pressure gauge, or try to rig something up.

Any ideas in the meantime?

Thanks!
 
I would say plugged fuel filter or bad fuel pump. Those fuel pumps and filters are so much fun working on in the gas tank- Had similar problems on my 04 Night Train.
 

Any ideas in the meantime?

Work at confirming fuel pressure, volume and fuel quality. I put a new tank, fuel pump and filter on a ford pick'em up last week. It ran ok other than it was low on power when you got on it... Pulled the MAF and cleaned, verified MAF operation replaced a very dirty air filter. NOW it will idle but will not take throttle without cutting off.

My #1 rule on most any driveabilty issue is to hook up a fuel gauge. Leave it connected till I confirm the issue fuel pressure are not WTF it has 10 PSI... The owner has been replacing the fuel filter every time it would not run and had destroyed the push lock connectors. I found one new clip but could not locate the other sooo made a new plastic line for the outlet. The line kinked were I looped it trying to make sure I did not stressed the connector at the filter while duplicating the original line....

I can not see how anyone can work on a EFI issue with out a fuel pressure gauge are at least a FP gauge to rule fuel pressure out...

My fudge up kink in far right BTW I was able to just run a somewhat straight shot to the filter without the loop... Making up a plastic fuel line for those that have not done it can be harder than chines rifmatic.







2585.jpg
 
By chance did the gas cap get changed? I worked on one that would run for awhile the die. I was looking in tank with light and started it and it tan fine. Put cap on and died in a few minutes. Left cap loose and test drove..no problem. New chrome cap was not vented. Remember...chrome wont get you home!
 
(quoted from post at 13:59:19 08/26/17)
Any ideas in the meantime?

Work at confirming fuel pressure, volume and fuel quality. I put a new tank, fuel pump and filter on a ford pick'em up last week. It ran ok other than it was low on power when you got on it... Pulled the MAF and cleaned, verified MAF operation replaced a very dirty air filter. NOW it will idle but will not take throttle without cutting off.

My #1 rule on most any driveabilty issue is to hook up a fuel gauge. Leave it connected till I confirm the issue fuel pressure are not WTF it has 10 PSI... The owner has been replacing the fuel filter every time it would not run and had destroyed the push lock connectors. I found one new clip but could not locate the other sooo made a new plastic line for the outlet. The line kinked were I looped it trying to make sure I did not stressed the connector at the filter while duplicating the original line....

I can not see how anyone can work on a EFI issue with out a fuel pressure gauge are at least a FP gauge to rule fuel pressure out...

My fudge up kink in far right BTW I was able to just run a somewhat straight shot to the filter without the loop... Making up a plastic fuel line for those that have not done it can be harder than chines rifmatic.







2585.jpg


You left the second e off Chinese. I almost couldn't figure it out.
 
how old is your battery? my bike acted just like that ( 2004 road king )just before battery failed. dealer told me the computers like 12+ volts. new battery solved my issues after a few miles. wouldn't of believed it if it didn't happen to me.
 
X2 on the battery. Have a customer that runs Harleys, he says the brand of battery can cause issues. He says HD batteries only, or next step Interstate. He says absolutely no Wally World batteries. Second thing I would do since you don't have a fuel pressure gauge is check compression and valve train. He says there is something in the valve train that craps out and causes problems. In fact, his list on inherent Harley faults is so long, I wonder why people even like those slow noise makers. When he buys a new one, he has about $2K worth of parts he replaces, just so he doesn't have to worry about it on the road.
 
I don't know about your problem but I do know what Hobo posted is something all twin cams need fixed. The chain tensioner is chinzy and delicate .So now on a brand new bike you have to re-engineer the engine with S&S gear drive . If you don't the stock tensioner breaks. These are expensive bikes and all brands have junk like this My 17000 dollar KTM came with a seat made to be uncomfy and then they are glad to sell you the comfortable "Ergo seat" for 140 bucks more. Plus I had to pay 49 bucks to have my turn signals programed to self cancel { that is a safety issue that should come with the bike not cost me more]. The best engineers go to work for GM not Harley.
 
Sporster is right about the chain tensionors. Swapping to gear drive is not too bad of job, plus I liked the sound of the gear whine. You may try swapping out the pump relay. Mine gave me fits trying to diagnose. Although not quite the same symptoms as yours
 

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