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JimS

Member
I lost my stock trailer in the Nuns Fire here in Sonoma County, CA. I picked up an old, very used stock trailer today. It needs lights and brakes. I saw the post below about brakes; can someone refer me to a site that outlines how these brakes work on these trailers? Also, I read here, years ago, that someone used extension cord as wiring for a trailer as it was sheathed and easier to pull than individual wire, and the larger gauge worked better; thoughts on this? Any advice on wiring, gauge, pitfalls, ideas for improvement, repairing brakes, etc? What is best to do what is best to avoid?

Thanks
 
Don't know about the brakes, but have used outdoor cords for wiring for years. Last one I did was snowmobile atv trailer maybe 20 years ago and have had no trouble from it. Also used sealed oval lights like on semi trailers.
 
Also check with auto parts stores. O'Reilly's carry a five conductor flat strip (like flat extension cords) with each color marked as to intended service. It makes it easy for me to have the words as well as the color, and it's pretty cheap. Don't know if they have a color for brakes.
 
To replace brakes on a trailer the easiest way is to buy the entire backing plate and replace all the parts. It's usually about the same cost as the shoes and magnets and you get everything new. It's also easy to do as all you do is unbolt them and bolt on the new.

I am likely the one you are referring to on t he wiring with extension cord. I use 2 wire for the brakes and run a 3 wire for each side fo r lights. It does not have propper colors, but it's easy enough to figure out. I also use standard wire nuts to connect the wires then just fill the nut with silicone to seal it. This is the best way I've found to make wiring last and I live in the land of salt. Lol Redneck trailer parts is a good source of parts too.
 
Jon, I have also got the extension cord on mine and I use the wire nuts but cover the wire and nuts with the liquid tape where I have had to take the outside cover off. Just buy the black cord off the roll at Lowes and also the liquid tape.
 
Used to use silicone, but found that somehow moisture could sometimes still get in there and corrode the wires.

Prefer to use butt splices and dielectric grease anymore. Squirt the grease into the butt splice, then insert the wires and crimp closed.

Yes, it's messy.

Several years ago, accidentally cut the buried phone line while replacing a culvert. Fixed it myself using silicone (butt splices with silicone, another tube over the splice filled with silicone). Fast forward a few years, had trouble with our phone. Turned out it was my splice. Wires corroded, phone tech used tubes filled with dielectric grease to repair it. Never another problem for 10 years till we dropped the land line.

Most car parts places carry tubes of the grease.

FWIW

Fred
 
I like to use solder and then seal with heat shrink tubing.
Last trailer I did, I used cpvc conduit to run wires in.
I have also used extension cord.
I have also used old garden hose for conduit.
 
To add to what Jon F said, it is pretty much the same price to buy the pre-assembled backing plates, then all you have to do is bolt them on, hook up the wires, and adjust the brakes. BUT, make sure you know when you get them, there IS a left assy, and a right assy. Just make sure if it's a tandem, you get 2 RH assy's, and 2 LH assy's, and that you look at them before you install them so that you put the rights on the right, and the lefts on the left, standing behind the trailer looking towards the front of it.
 
I found out after I did it, that silicone sealer will, over time, (about a year)eat copper wiring. Trailer brake wire will need to be a lot heaver than the light wires. I have been buying five wire flat from HF and cutting off the connectors so I cane use my 7 pin. And I buy 2 wire brake wiring from the trailed dealer down the road.
 
The wires come out to the rear of the axle so as long as you do that it takes care of the right/left issue. But they are labeled too.
 

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