2011 Ford 6.7 powerstroke oil change

TBA

Member
Talking trucks close enough to
tractors I hope.
Great truck great motor But the
oil plug is a bad design to me,
never works as it should,if you
turn it as directed the oil does
not come out and a little more
turn and you have a oil bath.
Next the dipstick is impossible
to get a correct reading hot or
cold. Any body have same
problems or have any comments.
 
I have a Fumoto valve on all diesels and some gassers. Slip 3/8ths hose onto nipple,stick hose in gallon jug from change before,turn valve on,fill jug,turn valve off and switch jugs. Never spill a drop nor get any on hands. Check it out,you'll buy it.
 
The dipsticks on those model years suck. You can not see clean oil on the dip stick. My Brother has a 2012 and he just has to measure the exact amount out and call it good enough until he runs it a few hundred miles. Then you can usually see it. I do not recall the oil plug being that much of an issue. I dislike all the electronics on the dash and steering wheel. Resetting the oil change setting takes getting the manual out every time. LOL

The 6.7 motor sure does pull well. I am not sure I would ever own one out of warranty. My Brother bought the extended warranty on his and is lucky he did. At right around 100K some thing in the emission system foiled up and it dumped too much fuel in. Scraped the turbo and damaged some other emission stuff. The bill was $10K for that. Then at 125K the turbo went out again. This truck has never had any kind of tuner and he maintains it by the book. He had bought warranty until 125K. He extended it to 175K. Cost him $4K to do that but with what the possible repair bills are it is more than likely money well spent.
 
Dark dip sticks are a pita. I'm taking that's the problem. We solved the problem by painting the end with white enamel to the full mark. helped. Good Luck
 
As easy as it seems to check oil on almost anything, the design on this engine is probably one the harder ones to get an accurate reading. The early 6.7 PSD ( 2011-2012 ) had a plastic oil pan and 1/4 turn plastic drain plug. Since the plug only turns 1/4 from sealed to drain, there is not enough rotation to control the drain flow. These plugs and pans are known to leak also. It might be a good idea to replace the plug occasionally or at least the o-ring on the plug.

Some time in late 2012 for 2013's, Ford changed to a metal oil pan and threaded metal plug. They also changed the dipstick design to make it easier to read. These parts can be sourced from aftermarket places or a Ford dealer and are considered an update to the earlier design. The oil pan replacement on this engine is not difficult or time consuming.
 
I stick my shop vac on the oil fill port, pull the the oil pan drain plug, position the catch pan and turn shopvac off, no mess no fuss, no nasty hands.
 

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