I'm trying to get my new holland going and i find that it's extremely difficult to rotate by hand. At points in the rotation it sounds almost freely, at other points i can barely turn the flywheel even with a pry bar jammed in it for leverage. How hard should it be? What could cause this? Thanks in advance
- Thread starter Lanse
- Start date
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
It's possible that rust has gotten between guide rails & bale case causing PH to get difficult to move in bale case. How long since baler was used to bale hay? Does baler have PH brgs or just wear pads?
If you take all those chains off, you'll have to re-time the baler, which can be tricky if you're new at it. I'd try first to figure out what's binding without removing chains. If you do end up removing the chains, you'll have to have a book to figure out how to time it.
And assuming you can figure out what's binding, you'll still need a book to figure out why it's not tying right. BTDT.
And assuming you can figure out what's binding, you'll still need a book to figure out why it's not tying right. BTDT.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Empty as in NO hay at all in it one should be able to spin it over pretty easy. Yes at the end of the compression stroke it will be a tad bit harder but not all that much.
Things that can cause it to spin over easy are chains that do not flex as they should and need a good ATF treatment to free up or bad bearings some place or simply lack of grease
Things that can cause it to spin over easy are chains that do not flex as they should and need a good ATF treatment to free up or bad bearings some place or simply lack of grease
If the needles are started into the bale chamber, there may be a plunger stop that stops the plunger before it can hit the needles. Deere balers have that plunger stop, the flywheel shear pin usually snaps when the plunger hits it at PTO speeds.
The plunger guides could be causing a bind. What model is it or what type of guides are on the plunger head: wood blocks, metal plates or cam rollers?
The plunger guides could be causing a bind. What model is it or what type of guides are on the plunger head: wood blocks, metal plates or cam rollers?
carvel minne farmer
Well-known Member
lanse I had the same issues with my 336 jd baler when I got it, had sat for years, I sprayed the plunger tracks down with fliud film (super slick) greased every grease nipple, replaced those that wouldn't take grease and greased them, at first I was like you using a prybar, got the plunger moving end to end, sprayed more fluid film on the tracks, my main problem was rust from sitting so long the fluid film took care of that, you can walk up to my baler now and roll the flywheel with 1 hand no problem. will just take you time and a couple of cans of fluid film. spray your knotters and chains down with fluid film as well lanse and she'll be rolling smooth as butter in no time
oldproudvet
Well-known Member
Pick up a manual off ebay or even NH for that matter. New Holland has an excellent old training film that has been put on a computer and it's available on U-tube. Search for it, neat deal. NH balers have a plunger safety stop that, if things are out of time will prevent the plunger from busting the cast needles, it's on the bottom and you have to lay under it to grease the zerk. No one ever does and they are all stuck. Make sure you get it loose before you hook and power to it. Mine is a small old 60's vintage 269 I run with a Case SC, so it has to turn freely. My old Case baler uses wood for the plunger to ride, they can swell up and actually stick if it ever sat out.
oldproudvet
Well-known Member
Hay hay hay
Well-known Member
Just a thought, be sure the pick up is not stuck. It? should turn easy , but if a bearing is out or a tooth or something is caught it will drag, or hang up. I would check that carefully before I?d start taking chains off.
showcrop
Well-known Member
As a couple of the guys have said you have rust between the bottom of the chamber and the guides that the plunger rides in. It is possible that plenty of lubrication will free it up, but it is more likely that it will start a fire. You should pull the plunger head out the back, then you can remove the rails, clean the rust out good and paint it before putting the rails back in. It may sound like a lot but it will probably be faster than taking all of the chains off and having to re-time it.
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