Winching and Rigging to Load a Tractor - Need Help

RTR

Well-known Member
Ok Guys..........I need some help loading a tractor (1952 Styled John Deere G) that has been sitting in some hedges for around 15 years. It will be a pretty much straight pull on flat ground from the back yard
to the front so it shouldn't be too bad. The old man doesn't want us in the back yard because he says its always wet back there and plus there are too many bushes and sheds in the way to get a pickup back
there. We could take our farm tractor or skid steer back there to tow it out but it would risk getting stuck or tearing the yard up. My plan is that winching it to the front yard/gate then we can hook to it
and go. Tires are up and holding air. Only problem is that I only have a 4.000 lb Smittybilt Winch mounted on my utility trailer. It works find for small stuff but probably not for this.....especially at a
really long pull. Are there ways to rig it up with a block, pulley, etc. that will make it double its power? See attached diagram for more info.
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Ok. CORRECTION.......the tractor is actually directly behind the building as seen in this picture
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With enough chain or tug straps anything can be done. If you cannot wait for it to dry up using a pulley with a hook in the middle of winch will double the pull strength but halve the distance it will pull. Another option is find a local wrecker service and see what they would charge to pull it out front for you might find one that will do it for a $100 if lucky.
 
(quoted from post at 19:47:12 03/28/18) If you can winch it you can get a long cable/chains and sit in the driveway and pull it out.

Yes that is the plan. But I need a winch so I can SIT there. We have about 200 feet of cable we use to cut trees and pull stuck equipment out but I am needing to pull a long distance so that won't work.....which is why I need to sit and winch. Worried my 4K lb winch isn't enough I wanted to know if there is a way to rig it so it would pull easier.
 
(quoted from post at 19:49:03 03/28/18) With enough chain or tug straps anything can be done. If you cannot wait for it to dry up using a pulley with a hook in the middle of winch will double the pull strength but halve the distance it will pull. Another option is find a local wrecker service and see what they would charge to pull it out front for you might find one that will do it for a $100 if lucky.

Talked to a couple wrecker services but would rather try to do it myself if I can. They are charging around $200 to pull out front. Might as well let them haul it home while they are there too
 

May I suggest taking a spade and digging some short trenches in front of all the tires before attempting to pull it out? Once the tractor is out of the dirt, and provided the brakes are not locked up, it should take minimal effort to move it to the front yard. You might want to bring an air compressor along.
 
You can double the mechanical advantage by hanging a pulley on the front of the tractor, take the hook off your cable, run it down to the tractor and through the pulley and then back up to the trailer. Put the hook back on, and hook it to the trailer. But you need cable twice the length of the distance to the tractor. Lacking that, you could get a cable and two pulleys at Harbor Freight (one single, one double) and rig a double block setup. You could pull about 12 feet with your single cable from the trailer, then stop and re-rig it. Kind of like pulling with a come-along.
 
Your winch and battery is not going to like pulling that much for that long. I think I'd call a roll-back wrecker truck in and have them deliver it. Cheaper than buying a winch. Maybe they'll go easy on you if you do all the chain work and the tow guy just runs the levers.
 
It will leave skid marks if you winch it out and wheels are stuck.

Winter would have been time to do this when ground frozen.
 
Looks pretty dry there. Fairly long driveway too. Back up as far as you can and hook cable / chain to tractor,pull ahead as far as you can. Rehook and repeat. Might go faster than the winch and prevent the winch from overheating and battery from dying. Then winch the last bit up onto the trailer.
 
Yes, you can compound the pulling ability of the winch.

It will take another pulley and either a longer cable, or pull it in short increments, resetting the cable after each pull.

The advantage is it will double the pulling power, but double the run time on the winch, so it may need to cool between pulls.

I would give it a try as is. If the brakes aren't stuck, 4000 lbs should drag that tractor.
Compounging a Winch
 
To reduce damage to the yard, try laying lumber in front of the wheels when you pull the tractor. The tractors weight will be spread over a larger area and the hard surface should have less rolling resistance than a soft lawn. After sitting for 15 years, I would check that the tractor is ready to roll, a brake could be frozen.
 
Is there a farmer-neighbor you can give a 50 dollar bill to and he will come over with his tractor and pull the G to solid ground?---Tee
 
I my foolish years I bought and loaded tractors in that condition and worse. I never took help with me and did it by myself. I hooked a chain or chains to a tractor from the trailer and pulled them out of where I couldn't get the truck on solid ground. Then winch them on. Old ugly is a heavy truck and with the weigh of the trailer on the back of the truck gave it traction. I have pulled tractors of around 2000 pounds with the rear tires sliding.
 
After having just done this I have some experience. Everyone has pretty well described more or less what you can do depending on the preferences of the older man. The operational wt. of a non-weighted JD model G is about 5300 pounds unballasted.

I am not familiar with your winch's rating. Some are rated for pulling up a grade. I had to pull a 3 cylinder Ford 4000 with its front end loader minus bucket up a 30-35 degree grade. All I had was a 5,000 pound Horrible Freight winch. I used a 10,000 pound rated snatch block (Tractor Supply) to double the pull and a secondary 4 ton manual come-along as a safety. This tractor had one low leaky rear and one similar front. Steering it was problematic and nearly impossible since the motor was locked up and the power steering thus inoperable. You know the suggestion of paying a tow truck is good, and I would have used it if I had that as an option.

Your tractor could be used as a stationery anchor for the winch. It would be less likely to slip tires this way. If necessary put chock blocks behind your tractors tires to minimize stress on the gears/brake. Once it is broken free maybe as suggested by previous posts it should roll easily compared to the nightmare I was posed with.

You might not even need a snatch block once it is broken free depending on the ground conditions. If the older man would let you use some of the trees as progressive stationery attachment points (using a tree saver strap/s) this would be best. You might not even need to use your tractor if this is an option. If two men can grunt push a tractor like you want a few feet on level ground, a 4,000 pound winch should do except getting it up a trailer ramp.
 
The tractor is approximately 200 feet from the gate straight back. Tires are aired up and trees and brush have been cut from around tractor.
 
I only have 60 feet of 1/4 inch cable on the winch also. So........maybe I should try to take our Ford 3430 tractor (newer 3000 variant) back there and lift up the front of the tractor and tow it out. That is what we want to do, but the guy is worried about it being too wet and messing up the yard. Maybe we could pull it a little ways (short distances) with our long cable and rehook and pull a few times.......then back in the yard and hitch to the tractor once it is closer to the front. IDK, we are just ready to get it to our place and want to get it as easily and quickly as possible without it being an all-day adventure.
 
Either pull it with the truck then rehitch or by using your long cable hook it to the trailer tail go back till you run out of cable then hook a pulley to the tractor with the long cable through it. Then your winch on the end of the long cable this would give you more pull length for your winch with less rehooking and lower the work on the winch. When it gets about to the trailer you can then just hook as needed to finish it up.
The pulley at the tractor can be at the end of a couple of chains if needed for the winch to reach the end of the long cable.
 
Can't suggest anything for your problem but I wish I was there in that nice weather with no snow on the ground (like I see outside today). I'd gladly lend a hand just to enjoy the scenery and warmth.
 
I think my little ford 2n could winch that out.
As others have said long chain or cable and pull it out with truck or tractor.

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When having to pull something in a similar way, I like to take thin wood and make skids to mount under the tires/pieces of whatever I'm moving. It prevents digging into the ground and also requires much less effort to pull.

If there are no rocks or coarse/woody plants or grasses, then I might also wrap 6-mil plastic sheeting around each skid to aide in it sliding across the ground. Don't think sheeting would last your full pull though.

Also, the smooth side of board always goes down. One last tip is to curl the front of the board up. This can be done by cutting a notch near the front of each skid and then once under the load, use strong rope, come-a-long, ratchet strap or similar to hold the nose up off the ground. ...It's a good idea if the skid boards are wet, as wet wood has more flexibility and will be less prone to splintering/breaking.

You may also need to attach other strips of wood from skid to skid, turning all of the skids into one integral unit. This will prevent them from going in all different directions as you pull.
 
Do you know if the rear wheels will even turn at this point? That would be my biggest fear. I pulled an old F-14 out of a hedgerow once where the brakes were solidly rusted tight. Rear wheels were sunk up to the rim in the ground and would not turn even slightly. Fortunately I didnt have to worry about tearing up the ground though. Dont know how you will move it without making ruts if the rear wheels are frozen tight for any reason.
 
What if you promised the land owner that you would fix any ruts made and leave the place better than when you found it? I have had to do that several times.
 
(quoted from post at 08:33:51 03/29/18) I'm curious to know....did you buy the tractor from him or did he sell it to you?

He called me wanting to sell it. He said we should wait till July when it will be dry. We Arent waiting that long! I would drive it out with the starter but it's been sitting there and the can on the exhaust has rotted off. I'm betting it's siezed up and I'm not gonna fumble with trying to get all of that working until I get it home.
 
If he told you July before you made the deal then you should wait until July.
If he didn't, then he ought to put up with a few ruts.
I would wait at least a few weeks or a month if you think it will firm up by then just to be neighborly.
 
You can double up the winch line with a snatch block from Tractor Supply or any other place that sells winch accessories. You'll get double the pulling power but half the speed.

There's not going to be any quick way to slingshot the tractor out of there if you don't want to drive through the yard to get to it. It will be slow and tedious but it can be done. Just give your winch time to cool, or try to pull from the road with your truck if you can. Go 10', 20', 50' whatever you can, then back up and shorten the chain. Lather rinse and repeat.
 
Agree with Strawboss, you made a deal, hopefully you shook hands, you knew he didn't want you back there. If there is a issue of trust here, write up a buyers agreement with the serial# and both sign. Take pictures with the seller.

I bought a very nice tractor this winter, I can't move it till it dry's up this spring. And that is how its going to be.
 
(quoted from post at 17:18:50 03/29/18) Agree with Strawboss, you made a deal, hopefully you shook hands, you knew he didn't want you back there. If there is a issue of trust here, write up a buyers agreement with the serial# and both sign. Take pictures with the seller.

I bought a very nice tractor this winter, I can't move it till it dry's up this spring. And that is how its going to be.

No we bought it 2 months ago and need to get it. He just said the other day we should wait Til July to get it when we were there cutting down the small trees and brush back. He is old and is on a cane. Doesn't do anything but sit around all day. We wrote up a Bill of Sale. We will be getting it soon
 
(quoted from post at 14:06:46 03/28/18) I think my little ford 2n could winch that out.
As others have said long chain or cable and pull it out with truck or tractor.

Do you use that winch to winch or as a counterweight?

I do not think I would want to chain the front end to a tree while winching. I bet that beast would split the tractor before stalling out. :shock:
 
(quoted from post at 06:19:27 03/29/18) Just curious, if anything you use to pull it is going to rut the yard, what makes you think the G won't make ruts also?

Blackhole that's the first thought that entered my mind too.
 
About the only way to remove the tractor without leaving a mark is to lift it out with a helicopter.
I would hope he just does not want a bunch of deep ruts left and the appearance of a hog wallow. Anything else could easily be spread or filled, leveled, raked and/or grass seed spread. This would disappear after a few months.

If he expects anything less or more, I would wonder. I think things are being a little over complicated. Get written explanation of just how much perturbation/disturbance of the ground you will be allowed. Give him a written promise to level the ground back to its original shape. Take pictures.

How many helium balloons do you have? Sheesh!
 
(quoted from post at 18:19:27 03/29/18) Just curious, if anything you use to pull it is going to rut the yard, what makes you think the G won't make ruts also?

As long as it rolls it won't. But if it did it wouldn't make a mess as bad as our skid steer would going back there to get it.
 
Your winch is a little more than the one I want to keep behind my rear truck seat.

Looks like something used to haul boats out of the Delaware River and tow things in the boat yard. lol
 
(quoted from post at 21:41:00 03/29/18)
(quoted from post at 18:19:27 03/29/18) Just curious, if anything you use to pull it is going to rut the yard, what makes you think the G won't make ruts also?

As long as it rolls it won't. But if it did it wouldn't make a mess as bad as our skid steer would going back there to get it.

Well.....took the NEW skid steer down there (Dealer delivered it today-a week early) and got the tractor out! It didn't make a big mess at all. One rear tire was dragging but once we got it home intook the JD 450c loader and rolled it back and forth and got it moving. Our regular JD 240 tired skid steer would have really torn up Jos yard but the new tracked machine did little damage. The JD G weighs more than 6,000 lbs I think because the new Kubota wouldn't even pick up the rear end. We got her loaded on a trailer and hauled the 5 miles home.

Now time to get it drained and new fluids installed. Probably gonna put some diesel or ATF in engine and let it soak. Not sure if it is stuck or not. The exhaust cover was still intact. Will make another post about this soon. Thank you all!!!
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Get a block pulley for your winch long cable or chains. Then get several sheets of plywood for the tires.

I buried my dirt bike in a field once. Walked to a neighbor 600 feet away and got what plywood that I could carry. Layed the bike over and put the plywood under it. I would push it and replank it until I got to dry ground. I got a bike later with much more clearance even though I could hardly reach the ground with my feet, I never got stuck again.
 
(quoted from post at 07:19:16 03/29/18)
(quoted from post at 14:06:46 03/28/18) I think my little ford 2n could winch that out.
As others have said long chain or cable and pull it out with truck or tractor.

Do you use that winch to winch or as a counterweight?

I do not think I would want to chain the front end to a tree while winching. I bet that beast would split the tractor before stalling out. :shock:

The tractor spent most of it's life pull boats out of the Delaware river south of Philadelphia PA. Front was chain to concrete
 

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