Auto paint experts here?

JDEM

Well-known Member
I did not ask this over at the antique-tractor paint section mainly because this is not a tractor.

I am skilled at many things, but score pretty low when it comes to "modern" paint and body work. I did all the tractor painting a two John Deere dealerships back in the 70s-90s. That was low tech and with lacquer primer and one-coat enamel. In fact, we only used paint from John Deere that was made by Valspar.

I have a 1978 Toyota-Chinook micro-mini-motorhome. Although it is a collector's item - to my family it is a user. Three adults and a dog do well in it and will be taking it on a 6000 mile trip this Fall. I have no intention of ever making this thing "show quality." That said - the guy I got it from used it in his shrimp-camp in Louisiana and painted it some awful orange with a roller.

I spent four years reworking and/or rebuilding all the mechanics and electronics on this. Drives like an old sports car and gets 22 MPG @ 70 MPH and I find that pretty impressive.

My problem is figuring out how to approach a paint-job now. I have been putting it off every year and figure it is time. It looks awful.

The original paint was lacquer. Four different colors and some decals. I have had new decals reproduced.

I am now trying to figure how to proceed with a one-coat acrylic enamel paint job.

I have no idea how the paint was done originally. I will guess and say the entire base color of white was done first? Then the large bands and/or stripes were painted over the white with a lot of masking? Then decals added?

I have no idea what order will work best. I tried to hire someone locally to do it but gave up. I am kind of amazed at how hard it is to hire anyone to do anything that is not deemed "normal." I could not even get the local auto-glass place to install my windshield because they only do "glue-in" windshields. They acted as though my 1978 with a rubber-molding was a 1900s Model T or something.

So the heck with it. I will reluctantly do myself. I'd just like to have a plan. I already matched the paint with an on-line seller. Local places looked at me like I was nuts when I asked about straight acrylic enamel.

I have urethane primer. Acrylic enamel paint. I also might later clear-coat with more enamel or urethane. Supposedly I can do either.

I would hate to get part-way through this and find out I made some major mistakes in my approach.

If anyone on this forum is really good at this - I'd love to hear some ideas or comments.
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(quoted from post at 08:07:34 04/06/18) I did not ask this over at the antique-tractor paint section mainly because this is not a tractor.

I am skilled at many things, but score pretty low when it comes to "modern" paint and body work. I did all the tractor painting a two John Deere dealerships back in the 70s-90s. That was low tech and with lacquer primer and one-coat enamel. In fact, we only used paint from John Deere that was made by Valspar.

I have a 1978 Toyota-Chinook micro-mini-motorhome. Although it is a collector's item - to my family it is a user. Three adults and a dog do well in it and will be taking it on a 6000 mile trip this Fall. I have no intention of ever making this thing "show quality." That said - the guy I got it from used it in his shrimp-camp in Louisiana and painted it some awful orange with a roller.

I spent four years reworking and/or rebuilding all the mechanics and electronics on this. Drives like an old sports car and gets 22 MPG @ 70 MPH and I find that pretty impressive.

My problem is figuring out how to approach a paint-job now. I have been putting it off every year and figure it is time. It looks awful.

The original paint was lacquer. Four different colors and some decals. I have had new decals reproduced.

I am now trying to figure how to proceed with a one-coat acrylic enamel paint job.

I have no idea how the paint was done originally. I will guess and say the entire base color of white was done first? Then the large bands and/or stripes were painted over the white with a lot of masking? Then decals added?

I have no idea what order will work best. I tried to hire someone locally to do it but gave up. I am kind of amazed at how hard it is to hire anyone to do anything that is not deemed "normal." I could not even get the local auto-glass place to install my windshield because they only do "glue-in" windshields. They acted as though my 1978 with a rubber-molding was a 1900s Model T or something.

So the heck with it. I will reluctantly do myself. I'd just like to have a plan. I already matched the paint with an on-line seller. Local places looked at me like I was nuts when I asked about straight acrylic enamel.

I have urethane primer. Acrylic enamel paint. I also might later clear-coat with more enamel or urethane. Supposedly I can do either.

I would hate to get part-way through this and find out I made some major mistakes in my approach.

If anyone on this forum is really good at this - I'd love to hear some ideas or comments.


OK first thing is get it sanded with 320 grit, and all the dents fixed. Then blow it off with compressed air. next wipe it down with lacquer thinner, then right before you are ready to spray wipe down with a tack cloth (paint store).
Spray a self etching primer, then a primer sealer, followed by the color of choice. If you have your ducks in a row, you can do the self etch primer, then primer sealer, then color without the need to sand in between. If you are going to do stripes wait for the base paint to dry, then tape off what is to get the next color, and scratch that area up with a scotchbrite pad then shot the color. If the base is darker than the strip then you will have to do the primer sealer first.

Use hardener in the paint. Spray in a well ventilated area, and wear a tyvek suit with hood and a full face breather. Latex gloves on your hands as well.
 
With that many different colors I think I would go with basecoat/clearcoat. Get everything cleaned up and prime it with the primer made for the topcoat you use and paint the white first. Then either make up some stencils or mask off the different areas with the different colors. Once you have a basecoat to your liking apply a clear coat over all of it.
 
Spend some time reading the forum at autobodystore(dot)com
Very knowledgeable folks but primarily interested in latest
techniques. I would not ask questions at first. Read read read.
 
There are auto restoration places everywhere. I am sure you can find someone to paint it but you have to be willing to spend big money. People think they want a quick cheap paint job but what they have in their mind is Barrett Jackson show car. When you paint with modern urethane paints every tiny imperfection shows up. Imperfections on large flat surfaces really stand out. Sort of like looking through a really old window. The glass is not perfect and it distorts the image. A paint guy knows this and doesn't want to risk you not being happy. So for him to do the job he wants to be paid for a Barrett Jackson show car job. I think that could hit $20,000 on that vehicle. 200 hours at $80/hr plus thousands of dollars in paint supplies. It is not worth the risk of you being unhappy and complaining to him and everyone you know for $1000.

If you are interested in learning about restoring and painting cars then there is a lot of information on You Tube. There is a You Tube channel called D.I.Y. Auto Restoration with 100s of videos. The guy can come off as a loud mouth idiot but he really knows his stuff.
 
I'm wondering if that is going to NEED to be striped clear down with all those layers of who knows what on there ? Is part or most of it fiberglass ? if so maybe a place that plastic bead blasts corvettes could clean it up.
May as well stick with the John Deere green and Yellow ! It would look real good that way.
 
Re . . "There are auto restoration places everywhere."

That is absolutely not true. Nearest place I was able to find in my area is 120 miles. Lots of closer places listed on the Net and all went out of business.
 
I already have the paint so figure I'm going to use it. Urethane primer and acrylic-enamel colors.

I want to learn just enough to get this done and hopefully NEVER do it again. I hate U-tube videos and forums. Just as much bad and useless info as good (if not more bad then good).

Clear-coating makes my point. I found countless posts claiming any attempt to clear-coat enamel will fail. The place I got the paint says clear-coating enamel with more enamel or urethane is fine. So, there is one bit of disagreement.

Thanks for the input. I think I will buy the best tape I can get for fine edges and also some pin-striping stencil-tape. Hopefully - spray the main color. Then mask and spray the separate bands of other colors. Then pin-stripe all the borders of the bands. Then clear-coat with urethane an hope things don't go bad. I might test paint something else to make sure.
 
120 miles is nothing. If the guy is good, prompt and honest the two hour drive each way is easy. If he is doing a top notch job he is going to have your vehicle for a couple of months. Painting a vehicle is not a cheap and easy process. To be honest if the guy is truly good you are going to be put on a waiting list. You might have to make a down payment to hold your spot.
 
My sister-in-law drove the lawn mower with the roll bar up too close to their motor home and put a nice scratch across 5 different colors of paint. My brother was pretty ticked but is kind enough that he won't tell what it cost to fix. I would imagine it was a pretty bad number.
 
Acrylic enamel is just more likely to run under your masking making a fuzzy line. Using that finish spray the first coat or two on very light and dry to try to seal in the line. Then maybe you can get away with a full coat.
 
I'm no expert, but have shot some paint and more important, done the prep work. I suspect that was lacquer from the factory. and the main camper is fiberglass I think.
For the best job it will need to have most if not all the old stuff stripped. I'd probably start with a buffer, not grinder with 80 or 120grit and get a lot of the paint off. Switch to 180, then 220.
Then, shoot a good wet coat of epoxy primer. That stuff sticks to anything and all other finishes stick to it well. Before the recoat window for the epoxy expire, lay on the fist layer of urethane primer. Let that cure well and sand overall with a random orbit and 320. More primer and block well with 400 wet.
Paint the whole thing with your base color. tape and apply designs one at a time. Good tape and application is key here!

Good paint jobs are all about prep work and are labor intensive. That's why most shops won't quote different stuff, it just becomes a money looser for them or antagonizes the customer. Any all over job will entail at least 40 hours,most many more. With shop rates approaching 100/hr it just isn't justifiable for most people.

That and the cost of paint. I can't even buy anything other than urethane locally. BTW, it I was doing a similar job, I'd use single stage urethane. Very durable, easier to shoot than enamel, cures faster (less time to gather dust and bugs!), readily available in several grades, clear not required(but optional) and much easier to repair if ever needed.

But, be careful of your health, two part paints or even your enamel with hardener should never come in contact with eyes, lungs or skin. Nasty stuff. I don't use a supplied air system that most recommend. Tyvek suit used with a full face mask with NEW properly rated filters has worked for me for years. It's true that the bad stuff is odorless, but the thinners are not. If you smell anything, stop. fix the problem. if the smell gets through so does other stuff. Others will likely disagree, and that's fine. I've done enough research to feel comfortable with that.
 
JDEM, Here is what I get by with using Acrylic enamel w/hardener for 30 years. I spray 2 coats of color. Wait a day.Scuff and 2 coats of urethane. Urethane won't cross link to enamel,that is why the scuffing after enamel. Good luck!
 
Auto body / collision repair / custom painting and restorations was my profession from 1971 to abt 2005 or so. Since you already have the paint, I will try to direct you from there. Base/clear would have been my way and I'll tell you why. Using AE even with hardener, you will have to wait at least a week or so in 75 degree weather to be able to mask on the white to do stripes. If not it will "tape track". Same with each of the other colors if you have to mask over one to paint the other. With Base/ clear, you could do it all in one day and clear it the next over everything at once. You can mask over base cote in 1/2 hr. So, to answer you, do all the prep work , paint the white, wait 'til you can push your thumb on it heavy for a minute and have it not leave a mark , now start with your colors. Use 3M blue "fine line" vinyl tape for your edges. Probably 1/8" for corners and 1/4" for straights. It lays down perfect even in corners and no bleed under it. Hope you took lots of pics and did lots of measuring BEFORE you start prep work. I assume you want it original look. You are going to have fun with those "metallics" in acrylic enamel. Don't lay it on in heavy coats as the flake will "fall down" and it will tiger stripe on you. As far as the prep work, I can't help you as I am not there to see close up what it needs. Naturally all the stripes will need removed but if the white is adhering good and not all spider web cracked, then leave it on and sand and repair chips/dents etc. Hope this helps.
 

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