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Battery terminal bolts

G

Greenfrog

Member
How do these bolts differ from a regular bolt.?
I have used both and have had both corrode.
Certain metal? Coating?
 
Hello Greenfrog,

The group 31 batteries we had at work with threaded posts, used stainless bolts. Cable end had copper eyelet. Sealed top battery as well. On open top batteries though you should use anti corrosion disks,together with stainless hardware. Corrosion spay is another product,


Guido.
 
I use stainless steel bolts and then spray them with Fluid film to stop any corrosion. The fluid film is the ley.
 

The big difference is they have a square head that locks to the post so two wrenches are not needed 99% of the time... The other is the nut has a shoulder to stand the hex off the terminal end... Coat whatever you use in silicon dielectric grease life will be good...
 
What everyone else is saying. Even only 12 volts you can create micro voltages from moisture in the air. Also the cycle of the battery charging up and down generates hydrogen and tiny amounts of sufuric acid in the air. Electrolysis can be a real pain in the can. All of my terminals have hex head Sainless nuts and bolts. The nuts have the little nylon washer. Lock nuts. Have been pretty successful with the stainless. You rather quickly find out if you bought crap stainless. What ever else you want to try but the SS does me good.
 
One fellow I know uses a bolt slightly longer than what is needed. That way he can bottom the bolt out, thereby using all of the threads in the battery. He then uses a jamb nut on it to tighten down the cable. The extra length also provides a place to hook jumper cables.
 
I go with Guido on the bolt top 31 batteries. I have nearly ended the problem of cleaning cables and corrosion issues with them. As for the SS there are several grades of it. The higher the number the better grade it is. 316 is better than 304.
For the battery bolts grease will be the best bet for the durability.
 
To answer your question there is no difference in the metallurgical makeup of battery bolts compared to regular hex head bolts.
 
If its a regular old say Grade 3 or 5 or even 8 or whatever steel bolt I see no difference. HOWEVER I prefer the use of Stainless Steel in that application. If all is clean bright n shiny when connected and then coated with that red anti corrosion spray (or other suitable products) and moisture and oxygen (so no oxidation) and other contaminants are kept away, I seldom see connection problems ESPECIALLY if those felt looking washers are also used. Felt washers coupled with anti corrosion coating or spray over clean bright tight and proper connections is my preferred method, but to each their own is fine by me. Yall do as you please you may have different methods or opinions, these happen to be mine.

NOTE some battery terminal bolts are square versus hex such that the bolt head locks into the terminal so the bolt doesn't turn when the nut is tightened NOW THOSE ARE SOMEWHAT "DIFFERENT" BOLTS.......

I'm talking about regular top post batteries here not the side mounts

John T
 
(quoted from post at 23:35:28 04/13/18) One fellow I know uses a bolt slightly longer than what is needed. That way he can bottom the bolt out, thereby using all of the threads in the battery. He then uses a jamb nut on it to tighten down the cable. The extra length also provides a place to hook jumper cables.
Click to expand...

I should have clarified also. I was talking about batteries with the side posts.
 

Those Felt washers are the sorriest P.O.S. that's ever been made...

#1) Once they get neutralized (and they will) they become a sponge and makes the issue WORST! by retaining contamination...

#2) Most of the time they interfere with cable terminal fit to the battery post by now allowing the terminal to fully seat on the post...
Battery spray in a rattle can what a damm joke spend the money on beer...

No one dreads battery terminal corrosion more than I do those Felt washers should be outlawed... Those Felt washers are two piece if you just gotta have'em tear the center out and throw it away for a proper fit... GRRRR just flat out garbage in my opinion...
 
Another thing that very few people seem to do is lubricate the bolt itself before you put it into the connector. I have always used what ever gun grease, chassis lube that I have handy. Knock the old bolt out of connection, clean up the hole and apply grease very generously. Then a coating over the whole connection.

Nothing worse than fighting getting nuts and bolts loose on any battery connection. I know, book says, non metallic or non conductive material but I am not about to change at my age.
 
(quoted from post at 10:49:51 04/14/18)
(quoted from post at 23:35:28 04/13/18) One fellow I know uses a bolt slightly longer than what is needed. That way he can bottom the bolt out, thereby using all of the threads in the battery. He then uses a jamb nut on it to tighten down the cable. The extra length also provides a place to hook jumper cables.
Click to expand...

I should have clarified also. I was talking about batteries with the side posts.
Click to expand...
One of the dumbest things GM ever did.
So dumb I know of no other brand of vehicles that ever utilized them.
 
(quoted from post at 12:59:36 04/14/18) Another thing that very few people seem to do is lubricate the bolt itself before you put it into the connector. I have always used what ever gun grease, chassis lube that I have handy. Knock the old bolt out of connection, clean up the hole and apply grease very generously. Then a coating over the whole connection.

.
Click to expand...

Another method is to just use an oil can and coat the terminal. Does a good job of protecting the terminal, but the downside is that it does make a mess on the top of the battery which needs to be wiped back off.
 
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