Dynamometer cooling Questions

FC Andy

Member
Hi All, I picked up an M&W P-2000 Dyno a few months ago. I've run it enough to learn how to use it, and get it good and warm. I decided to get the oil coolers fixed, because they were leaking. With them fixed, I'd like to know how to prevent that from happening again. It looked to me like somebody left water in the lines and it froze in the tubes of the heat exchanger and broke them. I also read about a problem with the larger dynos blowing up from steam pressure? I'd like to know:
1. How should I use the cooling system? The manual only says to run the water, but should I start out running the water? Seems to me if I wait until it's up to 180* and I turn the water on, it could crack the tubes from thermal shock.
2. Do I need to use the water each time I use it? Seems like if only using it for short periods, I can just let it cool off from 180*, if I even run it that long at a time.
3. Is it possible for residual water, if using it disconnected from water supply, to make steam and break the heat exchangers?
4. Am I WAY overthinking this?

Any thoughts or experience would be helpful! Thanks!-Andy
 
Since everybody likes Pictures...
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No experience with this tool, but on my hot water pressure washer, i have to let cold water run through after I turn off burner or residual heat can cause steam and burst heating could.
 
I just turn the water on when using and adjust the water volume to keep it cool, so a little water @ low HP, more at higher.
 
I have an old Taylor pull type dyno. It has JI Case on the face of the gauge,haven't used it in years but used to work well. Hooked a garden hose to it use it. Have the manual for it. Any value in this old thing?
 
Like Tom mentioned,we had both a old Taylor, and a M&W and we hooked the water right away, unless it was going to be a quick Dyno
 
I keep water running through mine when using it. After I get done I use air hose to push all water out of unit to be sure it cannot freeze
 

I have a Taylor. I run the water like David G says. Mine has a temp gauge on the panel so you know when to open it more, or close it some.
 
I saw one blow up because the guy didn't have the water running through it. Another mechanic told him the dyno was smoking and the oil was boiling. Instead of shutting everything down the idiot turned the water on-lucky for him the hydrant was inside. The hot oil and steam went about 30 feet in the air and landed all over the tractor, dyno, and wash pad.
 
My experience running an M&W dyno.

Hook the water hose to the bottom, run water in until it comes out the top fitting. Then you can shut it down, or to a trickle. Then, as you load the dyno, watch the temp gauge. Adjust the water flow accordingly.

This just keeps you from shocking a HOT coil with COLD water.
 
Thanks a lot guys, I really do appreciate the knowledge around here! I like the idea of filling it with water from the beginning, adjusting the flow based on oil temp., and then blowing it out when done. Just trying to learn the best practices on using it, I bought it because I don't know anybody with one. So, nobody to learn from, LOL! And for your info, my old 806 pulled 97 hp. She's still got it! ;) -Andy
 
Just a note, aside from the big cooling coils there is a small one in the bottom of the gearbox. It does not drain out on its own. I'm not sure how well air would blow the water out. I pump rv anti freeze into the coils on mine before it gets cold in the fall.
 
Mine is running 112 with out a hair dryer , my one friend his is running 130 with the hair dryer . Many years back when they were new my old bosses wass pushen 160 and my uncles was 163 , both had turbos added and they were NOT M&*W's . worked a lot of ground with both of them . Going from two and three bottoms to five and from a 10-12 foot disc to a 18 withaxle duals was a huge step back in 63.
 

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