Toe in for Tractor Converted to Forklift

Inno

Well-known Member
I have a 204 Massey Ferguson that was converted, when new I think, to operate backwards and has a forklift off the back....which is now the front. The steering tires seem to be more toed in than I would expect but I'm thinking maybe there was a reason for doing this being as how it is now operating backwards. If not I have some adjusting to do. It is pretty tough to steer as it is but I think it's mainly because there is a massive steel box filled with concrete used for ballast weighing down the front....which is now the back, and putting a lot of weight on the steering tires.
Is this making any sense?
 
Here it is lifting a 3/4 ton truck frame with engine.

mvphoto20684.jpg
 

I will guess that the "toe-in" should be in the direction of travel, which would result in a "toe-out" situation if the tractor was NOT reversed.
 
Yes it makes sense, and I agree with Rusty, toe-in should be in direction of travel. Toe -in should not make it hard to steer, that's
probably just the big counterweight. I assume it doesn't have power steering!
 
It does have power steering, it would be virtually un-steerable without it especially without a load.
 
I guess I didn't think of it that way.........yes, it's toed out in the direction of travel.
 
I would first check everything over.

Jack the steering wheels up, check for excess wear in the spindle bushings, check the thrust bearings. If either are worn excessively or frozen, dry, it will be difficult to steer. Also check the steering gear for wear and grease level.

Not sure how they converted the steering, it looks like the original gear is still in place. If it's a manual gear, it originally had 90 weight gear oil. If it did, it probably has leaked out. Most replace it with NLGI 0 grease.

As for the toe adjustment, being a forklift, it probably gets as much reverse driving as forward, so I would shoot for 0 toe in, just try to get them close to straight. It's not that critical, will not effect steering effort.

Be sure the steering tires are inflated to the max rating, or if showing their age as much as you feel safe running them.
 
Since it runs forward and backward pretty much equally, I would set the toe in at 0
 
The toe in should be set for the direction of road travel, as it has very little effect at slow speeds.

The ONLY reason for toe in is to compensate for spring and slip in the front end so the wheels will not be pushed outward when going down the road. So, in theory there would be 0 toe in if the suspension had no slop and no give.
 
(quoted from post at 15:38:06 07/30/18) I would first check everything over.

Jack the steering wheels up, check for excess wear in the spindle bushings, check the thrust bearings. If either are worn excessively or frozen, dry, it will be difficult to steer. Also check the steering gear for wear and grease level.

Not sure how they converted the steering, it looks like the original gear is still in place. If it's a manual gear, it originally had 90 weight gear oil. If it did, it probably has leaked out. Most replace it with NLGI 0 grease.

As for the toe adjustment, being a forklift, it probably gets as much reverse driving as forward, so I would shoot for 0 toe in, just try to get them close to straight. It's not that critical, will not effect steering effort.

Be sure the steering tires are inflated to the max rating, or if showing their age as much as you feel safe running them.

I've checked a lot of it over, one spindle was broken when I got it so that's been replaced. The steering was converted with chain and gears but yes, the original steering gear is all in place. In fact if I wanted to I could return it back to original without too much trouble.
The steering shaft was leaking power steering fluid so I put in a speedi sleeve and new seal which fixed that, replaced one power steering hose. I am still losing fluid somewhere, possibly where the pump mounts to the engine. When topped up the steering isn't all that hard to turn but it's more the actual control I have over the machine that I'm not happy with. I have a couple of military style tires which I will put on which should be stiffer and handle more pressure and I'll set the toe as close to 0 as I can get.
 
I would shoot for 1/8" if it is tight, 1/4 if loose, as it does get used in both directions, I would probably go with less than more.
 
I've also adjusted the steering sectors and refilled the gearbox with the recommended ATF.
 
I had one 204 and two 2400's . The 204 was susceptible for breaking the bell housing if overloaded and the load allowed to drop. It was rated a 3,500 at he mast but we unloaded 4.000 pound bundles. All had the Z-134 continental engine. I found that they steered well if the Power steering was in good shape but the cylinders wore out after much use, The model 2400 was a better machine in many ways but the 204 had better brakes. the 2400's has disc brakes that never worked and would free-wheel I the engine died. Had a couple run-aways, The 204 could be manually steered with the engine stopped but the 2400 lost steering with engine stopped
 

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